scholarly journals ENGINEERING APPROACH TO NONLINEAR WAVE SHOALING

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 34
Author(s):  
James Walker ◽  
John Headland
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Relative Depth ◽  
Laboratory Studies ◽  
Design Wave Height ◽  
Point Of Interest ◽  
Wave Shoaling ◽  
Sloping Bottom

Determination of a design wave height at a coastal structure requires calculation of a shoaling coefficient or determination of the maximum probable breaking wave height at the point of interest. In shallow water over a sloping bottom, low steepness waves are not accurately predicted by linear shoaling coefficients. Empirical breaking indices are inconsistent with both linear and nonlinear wave theories. Nevertheless, the coastal engineer must select a design wave in order to responsibly design the structure. A graphical procedure is presented herein to relate the equivalent deepwater wave to a breaking wave as it transitions into shoaling water. The procedure provides the coastal engineer with a more consistent understanding of the shoaling process. The results furthermore identify regions of relative depth and steepness where discrepancies arise when using linear shoaling coefficients that may significantly alter engineering design and laboratory studies.

scholarly journals Wave transformation around breakwater (case study: tourism harbour, Eastern Bali, Indonesia)

2021 ◽  
Vol 894 (1) ◽  
pp. 012028
Author(s):  
M N Arsyad ◽  
O Setyandito ◽  
L M Kesuma ◽  
H D Armono ◽  
M Anda ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Condition ◽  
The Past ◽  
Design Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Modeling ◽  
Before And After ◽  
Modeling Software

Abstract An essential aspect in the sustainable design of breakwater is the determination of the design wave condition. It is predicted by utilizing severe wave conditions of the past 10 to 20 years. The tourism harbor at eastern Bali, Indonesia, is located where extreme wave condition occurs. Therefore, this research studies the wave height before and after constructing a breakwater in the harbor area. The wave height was simulated using numerical modeling. The methodology was performed by using the coastal modeling software of the SMS-CGWAVE model. The result shows the highest design wave height value of 3.9 m in the direction from the southeast. The design breakwater can reduce wave height up to 0.9 m or a 75.5% reduction. Further study is needed to simulate the extension of breakwater length to meet the criterion design of wave height in the harbor basin.

scholarly journals The problem of determining the threshold for statistical analysis by the POT method: Application to wave data on the Moroccan Atlantic coast

2021 ◽  
Vol 314 ◽  
pp. 04002
Author(s):  
Hosny Bakali ◽  
Ismail Aouiche ◽  
Najat Serhir
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Atlantic Coast ◽  
Sensitivity Study ◽  
Exponential Model ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Design Wave Height ◽  
Peak Over Threshold ◽  
Threshold Variation ◽  
Data Censoring

In a study of extreme waves by the Peak Over Threshold (POT) method, the determination of the threshold of data censoring is an essential step. A wrong choice of the threshold can lead to erroneous results of the wave height design and consequently a bad design of maritime structures such as breakwaters for deep sea ports. In this study, we analyzed the influence of the threshold variation on the results of the hundred-year return period waves, generally considered for the design of maritime structures. The sensitivity study allowed us to confirm that the exponential model is the best probability distribution to describe wave data in two points on the Moroccan Atlantic coast for the wave data period from 1958 to 2019. This study also confirmed that a wrong choice of the statistical distribution and a wrong choice of the threshold lead to significant errors in the estimation of design wave height.

scholarly journals UPGRADING BREAKWATERS IN RESPONSE TO SEA LEVEL RISE: PRACTICAL INSIGHTS FROM PHYSICAL MODELLING

2018 ◽  
pp. 35
Author(s):  
Daniel Howe ◽  
Ron J Cox
Keyword(s):  
Sea Level Rise ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Physical Modelling ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Design Wave Height ◽  
The World ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Similar Density

Coastal structures in many parts of the world are typically designed for depth-limited breaking wave conditions. With a projected sea level rise of up to 90 cm by 2100 (Church et al., 2013), the design wave height for these structures is expected to increase. Many of these structures will require significant armour upgrades to accommodate these new design conditions (for example, a 25% increase in wave height will require the mass of similar density armour to be doubled).

scholarly journals EFFECTS OF SHORT-CRESTED WAVES ON THE SCOURING AROUND THE BREAKWATER

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 151 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ming-Chung Lin ◽  
Chi-Tung Wu ◽  
Yen-Chi Lu ◽  
Nai-Kaung Liang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Formation Mechanism ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Standing Waves ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Laboratory Studies ◽  
Bed Forms

The aim of this research is to investigate quaiitatively the influence of short-crested waves on the scouring around the breakwater through mainly some laboratory studies. At first, we succeed to observe clearly in laboratory some sedimentary bed forms such as troughs, holes, triangle bars and longitudinal bars under short-crested wave actions. Then we elucidate the associstion of their formation mechanism with theory of short-crested waves, also indicate its effect on scouring at the toe of breakwaters. In addition, it is shown that the breaking wave height of short-crested waves is certainly higher than that of twodimensional standing waves. Finally we demonstrate some facts of failure of breakwater caused by short-crested wave breaking basing on some field results.

Semi-Empirical Crest Distributions of Long-Crest Nonlinear Waves of Three-Hour Duration

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhenjia (Jerry) Huang ◽  
Qiuchen Guo
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Model Test ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Empirical Formulas ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Semi Empirical

In wave basin model test of an offshore structure, waves that represent the given sea states have to be generated, qualified and accepted for the model test. For seakeeping and stationkeeping model tests, we normally accept waves in wave calibration tests if the significant wave height, spectral peak period and spectrum match the specified target values. However, for model tests where the responses depend highly on the local wave motions (wave elevation and kinematics) such as wave impact, green water impact on deck and air gap tests, additional qualification checks may be required. For instance, we may need to check wave crest probability distributions to avoid unrealistic wave crest in the test. To date, acceptance criteria of wave crest distribution calibration tests of large and steep waves of three-hour duration (full scale) have not been established. The purpose of the work presented in the paper is to provide a semi-empirical nonlinear wave crest distribution of three-hour duration for practical use, i.e. as an acceptance criterion for wave calibration tests. The semi-empirical formulas proposed in this paper were developed through regression analysis of a large number of fully nonlinear wave crest distributions. Wave time series from potential flow simulations, computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations and model test results were used to establish the probability distribution. The wave simulations were performed for three-hour duration assuming that they were long-crested. The sea states are assumed to be represented by JONSWAP spectrum, where a wide range of significant wave height, peak period, spectral peak parameter, and water depth were considered. Coefficients of the proposed semi-empirical formulas, comparisons among crest distributions from wave calibration tests, numerical simulations and the semi-empirical formulas are presented in this paper.

Estimation of design wave height using empirical simulation technique

2013 ◽  
Vol 61 ◽  
pp. 39-49 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kyung-Duck Suh ◽  
Munki Kim ◽  
Jeho Chun
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Simulation Technique ◽  
Design Wave Height

Criteria for physiological limits for work in heat

1965 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
pp. 37-45 ◽  
Author(s):  
C. H. Wyndham ◽  
N. B. Strydom ◽  
J. F. Morrison ◽  
C. G. Williams ◽  
G. A. G. Bredell ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Rectal Temperature ◽  
Temperature Regulation ◽  
Sweat Rate ◽  
Human Sciences ◽  
Laboratory Studies ◽  
Physiological Strain ◽  
Saturated Control ◽  
Physiological Limits ◽  
Upper Limit

New physiological criteria are put forward for setting the limits for men at work in hot conditions. They are based upon the fact that the curves relating rectal temperatures to conductances and rectal temperatures to sweat rates have two components. One is where the increases in the sweat rates and conductances, with rise in rectal temperature, are relatively large, i.e., there is a “sensitive” range of control; the second is where the curves of sweat rates and conductances against rectal temperatures reach asymptotes, i.e., become “saturated.” The upper limit of the sensitive range is a rectal temperature of 100.5 F (38.1 C), and the saturated range begins at rectal temperatures of 102.5 F (39.4 C). These concepts explain the “easy,” “difficult,” or “excessive” ranges of conditions of the Fort Knox and Human Sciences Laboratory studies. The great advantage of these criteria over others proposed is that the extent of the physiological strain on the workmen can be assessed, directly and simply, by a measurement of oral or rectal temperatures during the shift, and from these results limits for work can be set for work at specific hot jobs. assessment of the extent of physiological strain on workmen in heat; determination of physiological limits for work in hot conditions; sensitive and saturated control ranges in man's temperature regulation; relationships between rectal temperature and conductance and rectal temperature and sweat rate Submitted on March 20, 1964

scholarly journals Extended Elliptic Mild Slope Equation Incorporating the Nonlinear Shoaling Effect

2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (s1) ◽  
pp. 44-51 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qian-lu Xiao ◽  
Chun-hui Li ◽  
Xiao-yan Fu ◽  
Mei-ju Wang
Keyword(s):  
Dispersion Relation ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Dispersion ◽  
Structure Design ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equation, an efficient wave numerical model is presented in this paper for predicting wave deformation across the complex topography and the surf zone, incorporating the nonlinear wave dispersion relation, the nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient and other energy dissipation factors. Especially, the phenomenon of wave recovery and second breaking could be shown by the present model. The classical Berkhoff single elliptic topography wave tests, the sinusoidal varying topography experiment, and complex composite slopes wave flume experiments are applied to verify the accuracy of the calculation of wave heights. Compared with experimental data, good agreements are found upon single elliptical topography and one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope and step-type profiles. The results indicate that the newly-developed nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient improves the calculated accuracy of wave transformation in the surf zone efficiently, and the wave breaking is the key factor affecting the wave characteristics and need to be considered in the nearshore wave simulations.

scholarly journals LAGRANGIAN BREAKER CHARACTERISTICS FOR NONLINEAR WATER WAVES PROPAGATING ON SLOPING BOTTOMS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 15
Author(s):  
Yang-Yih Chen ◽  
Meng-Syue Li ◽  
Hung-Chu Hsu ◽  
Ying-Pin Lin
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Empirical Formula ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Present Theory ◽  
Empirical Formulas ◽  
Third Order ◽  
Wave Shoaling ◽  
Theoretical Results ◽  
Sloping Bottom

In this paper, a new third-order Lagrangian asymptotic solution describing nonlinear water wave propagation on the surface of a uniform sloping bottom is presented. The model is formulated in the Lagrangian variables and we use a two-parameter perturbation method to develop a new mathematical derivation. The particle trajectories, wave pressure and Lagrangian velocity potential are obtained as a function of the nonlinear wave steepness  and the bottom slope  perturbed to third order. The analytical solution in Lagrangian form satisfies state of the normal pressure at the free surface. The condition of the conservation of mass flux is examined in detail for the first time. The two important properties in Lagrangian coordinates, Lagrangian wave frequency and Lagrangian mean level, are included in the third-order solution. The solution can also be used to estimate the mean return current for waves progressing over the sloping bottom. The Lagrangian solution untangle the description of the features of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the process of successive deformation of a wave profile and water particle trajectories leading to wave breaking. The proposed model has proved to be capable of a better description of non-linear wave effects than the corresponding approximation of the same order derived by using the Eulerian description. The proposed solution has also been used to determine the wave shoaling process, and the comparisons between the experimental and theoretical results are presented in Fig.1a~1b. In addition, the basic wave-breaking criterion, namely the kinematical Stokes stability condition, has been investigated. The comparisons between the present theory, empirical formula of Goda (2004) and the experiments made by Iwagali et al.(1974), Deo et al.(2003) and Tsai et al.(2005) for the breaking index(Hb/L0) versus the relative water depth(d0/L0) under two different bottom slopes are depicted in Figs 2a~2b. It is found that the theoretical breaking index is well agreement with the experimental results for three bottom slopes. However,for steep slope of 1/3 shown in Fig 2b, the result of Goda‘s empirical formula gives a larger value in comparison with the experimental data and the present theory. Some of empirical formulas presented the breaking wave height in terms of deepwater wave condition, such as in Sunamura (1983) and in Rattanapitikon and Shibayama(2000). Base on the results depicted in Fig. 3a~3b, it showed that the theoretical results are in good agreement with the experimental data (Iwagali et al. 1974, Deo et al.2003 and Tsai et al. 2005) than the empirical formulas. The empirical formula of Sunamura (1983) always predicts an overestimation value.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document