The Shearing Mechanism Over a Deformed Surface of Breaking Waves

Author(s):  
S. G. Sajjadi ◽  
J. C. R. Hunt
2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.


Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.


2004 ◽  
Author(s):  
David T. Walker ◽  
Ales Alajbegovic ◽  
Jason D. Hunt

1986 ◽  
Vol 6 (2) ◽  
pp. 77
Author(s):  
Revell
Keyword(s):  

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 520
Author(s):  
Zhenyu Liu ◽  
Zhen Guo ◽  
Yuzhe Dou ◽  
Fanyu Zeng

Most offshore wind turbines are installed in shallow water and exposed to breaking waves. Previous numerical studies focusing on breaking wave forces generally ignored the seabed permeability. In this paper, a numerical model based on Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations (VARANS) is employed to reveal the process of a solitary wave interacting with a rigid pile over a permeable slope. Through applying the Forchheimer saturated drag equation, effects of seabed permeability on fluid motions are simulated. The reliability of the present model is verified by comparisons between experimentally obtained data and the numerical results. Further, 190 cases are simulated and the effects of different parameters on breaking wave forces on the pile are studied systematically. Results indicate that over a permeable seabed, the maximum breaking wave forces can occur not only when waves break just before the pile, but also when a “secondary wave wall” slams against the pile, after wave breaking. With the initial wave height increasing, breaking wave forces will increase, but the growth can decrease as the slope angle and permeability increase. For inclined piles around the wave breaking point, the maximum breaking wave force usually occurs with an inclination angle of α = −22.5° or 0°.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 214
Author(s):  
Adam C. Brown ◽  
Robert K. Paasch

A spherical wave measurement buoy capable of detecting breaking waves has been designed and built. The buoy is 16 inches in diameter and houses a 9 degree of freedom inertial measurement unit (IMU). The orientation and acceleration of the buoy is continuously logged at frequencies up to 200 Hz providing a high fidelity description of the motion of the buoy as it is impacted by breaking waves. The buoy was deployed several times throughout the winter of 2013–2014. Both moored and free-drifting data were acquired in near-shore shoaling waves off the coast of Newport, OR. Almost 200 breaking waves of varying type and intensity were measured over the course of multiple deployments. The characteristic signature of spilling and plunging breakers was identified in the IMU data.


Author(s):  
Brent Wilson ◽  
Lee-Ann C. Hayek

Abstract The intertidal coastline of Ceredigion, Wales, comprises a patchwork of unstable sand and cobble beaches, and stable bedrock areas and boulder-fields. The last two shoreline types support rock-pools with growths of the red alga Corallina officinalis, the thalli of which are a popular substrate for calcareous epiphytes. Replicate samples of C. officinalis (four per site) were taken from (a) three bedrock sites (Ceinewydd, Aberystwyth Victoria Rocks and Castle Rocks) and (b) three boulder-fields (Llanon, Aberaeron lower shore (Aberaeron LS), Llanina) on the lower shore. The middle shore boulder field at Aberaeron (Aberaeron MS) was also sampled. These replicates were examined for calcareous meiofauna (63–2000 μm) not previously examined as a community: spirorbids, foraminifera, gastropods, bryozoans, ostracods and ophiuroids. These were assigned to sessile and vagile modes of life. The sessile association overwhelmingly dominated bedrock coastlines and the Aberaeron MS, while the vagile association was at its most abundant on the Corallina from lower shore, stable boulder-fields. Gastropods were almost entirely limited to Corallina on boulder-fields. We hypothesize that the boulders induce low-energy turbulence among breaking waves, allowing the less firmly attached vagile meiofauna to dominate on C. officinalis in rock-pools in lower shore boulder-fields. The small attachment area of sessile organisms allows them to settle bedrock sites in greater densities than do vagile organisms at boulder-field sites, which are presumed to require larger foraging areas.


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