Study of beach permeability's influence on solitary wave runup with ISPH method

2021 ◽  
Vol 117 ◽  
pp. 102957
Author(s):  
Chiaki Tsurudome ◽  
Dongfang Liang ◽  
Yuma Shimizu ◽  
Abbas Khayyer ◽  
Hitoshi Gotoh
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Runup

Dynamic Interactions Between the Vadose and Phreatic Zones During Breaking Solitary Wave Runup and Drawdown Over a Fine Sand Beach

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heng Xiao ◽  
Yin L. Young ◽  
Jean H. Pre´vost
Keyword(s):  
Porous Media ◽  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Fluid Pressure ◽  
Fine Sand ◽  
Laboratory Scale ◽  
Slope Instability ◽  
Multiphase Model ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Sand Beach ◽  
Dynamic Interactions

The objective of this work is to investigate the dynamic interactions between the vadose and the phreatic zones during breaking solitary wave runup and drawdown over a fine sand beach. Extreme wave runup and drawdown in the nearshore region can lead to soil failure in the form of severe erosion, liquefaction, or slope instability. However, the physics of the nearshore region is difficult to simulate numerically due to the greatly varying time scales between the four governing processes: loading and unloading caused by wave runup and drawdown, propagation of the saturation front, pore pressure diffusion, and soil consolidation. Such processes are also difficult to simulate experimentally via model-scale wave tank studies due to the inability to satisfy all the similarity requirements for both the wave and the porous media in a 1g environment. Hence, the goal of this work is to perform a 1D study using a multiphase model to describe the transient responses of the species saturation, pore fluid pressure, effective stresses, and skeleton deformation. Results are shown for three simulations: (1) full-scale simulation, (2) 1:20 laboratory-scale simulation without scaling of the porous media, and (3) 1:20 laboratory-scale with consistent scaling of the soil permeability. The results suggest that the scaling of porous media between the pore fluids and soil skeleton has a significant influence on the transient response of both the vadose and the phreatic zones.

Solitary Wave Runup on Plane Slopes

2001 ◽  
Vol 127 (1) ◽  
pp. 33-44 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ying Li ◽  
Fredric Raichlen
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Runup

scholarly journals Two- and three-dimensional computation of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach

2008 ◽  
Vol 15 (3) ◽  
pp. 489-502 ◽  
Author(s):  
B. H. Choi ◽  
E. Pelinovsky ◽  
D. C. Kim ◽  
I. Didenkulova ◽  
S.-B. Woo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Water Displacement ◽  
Wave Processes ◽  
Field Surveys ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Slope Channel

Abstract. Solitary wave runup on a non-plane beach is studied analytically and numerically. For the theoretical approach, nonlinear shallow-water theory is applied to obtain the analytical solution for the simplified bottom geometry, such as an inclined channel whose cross-slope shape is parabolic. It generalizes Carrier-Greenspan approach for long wave runup on the inclined plane beach that is currently used now. For the numerical study, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) system is applied to study soliton runup on an inclined beach and the detailed characteristics of the wave processes (water displacement, velocity field, turbulent kinetic energy, energy dissipation) are analyzed. In this study, it is theoretically and numerically proved that the existence of a parabolic cross-slope channel on the plane beach causes runup intensification, which is often observed in post-tsunami field surveys.

scholarly journals A UNIFIED RUNUP FORMULA FOR BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES ON A UNIFORM BEACH

2018 ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Yun-Ta Wu ◽  
Philip Li-Fan Liu ◽  
Philip Li-Fan Liu ◽  
Kao-Shu Hwang ◽  
Kao-Shu Hwang ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Large Scale ◽  
Storm Surges ◽  
Research Area ◽  
Easy Access ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Analytical Approaches

For coastal management, it is of great importance to understand long-wave induced runup processes and predict maximum runup heights. Long-wave in nature could take different forms, such as swells, storm surges and tsunamis. One of the fundamental waveforms is solitary wave, which has a permanent form in a constant depth. Thus, the issue of solitary wave propagation, shoaling, breaking and runup has been an active research area in coastal engineering community, using experimental, numerical and analytical approaches. Among existing runup experiments, only limited numbers of experiments were conducted in large-scale wave flume facilities because of the lack of easy access. To enhance the range of surf parameters for breaking solitary waves, new laboratory experiments were carried out in a large-scale wave flume with a 1/100 slope. Several wave conditions in the experiments were on the borderline of plunging and spilling breakers. The main objective of this paper is twofold. The first aim is to present a new dataset for solitary wave runup. The second objective aims to develop a unified empirical formula, based on the available runup data in the literature and the present new data, for the runup of breaking solitary waves on a uniform slope.

scholarly journals LES Modeling of Tsunami-like Solitary Wave Processes over Fringing Reefs

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Tiancheng He ◽  
Zhengzhi Deng ◽  
Long Chen ◽  
Huiqun Guo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Reef Slope ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reef Crest ◽  
Primary Concern ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Two Phase ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Adopted Model

Abstract. Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave transformation and runup over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional (3D) numerical wave tank based on the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) tool OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase incompressible flow are solved, using the Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method for turbulence closure and the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave runup. The current and vortex evolutions associated with the breaking solitary wave around both the reef crest and the lagoon are also addressed via the numerical simulations.

Solitary Wave Runup and Rundown on a Steep Slope

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Q. Zhou ◽  
J. M. Zhan ◽  
Jiachun Li ◽  
Song Fu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Steep Slope ◽  
Wave Runup

Comparison Between Boussinesq and Shallow-Water Models in Predicting Solitary Wave Runup on Plane Beaches

2013 ◽  
Vol 55 (4) ◽  
pp. 1350014-1-1350014-24 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dongfang Liang ◽  
Hua Liu ◽  
Hongwu Tang ◽  
Rupal Rana
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Shallow Water Models ◽  
Water Models

scholarly journals WAVE RUNUP ON AN ARRAY OF STRUCTURES DUE TO A SOLITARY WAVE INTERACTING WITH STEADY CURRENTS

2020 ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Deniz Velioglu Sogut ◽  
Erdinc Sogut ◽  
Ali Farhadzadeh
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Research Laboratory ◽  
The Other ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Flow Recirculation ◽  
Steady Current ◽  
Recirculation System ◽  
Series Of Experiments ◽  
Current Flows

The present study investigates the runup patterns formed during the interactions of a solitary wave with an array of idealized structures in the presence of following and opposing steady current flows. A series of experiments were performed at Coastal and Hydraulic Engineering Research Laboratory (CHERL) of Stony Brook University. A solitary wave of 0.1 m high was considered to interact with an array of idealized buildings on a beach berm. The wave was generated in the flume in the absence and presence of steady currents. Two different steady current velocities, one weaker and the other stronger, were generated using the flume flow recirculation system.

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