Improved parabolic water wave transformation model

2005 ◽  
Vol 52 (2) ◽  
pp. 139-149 ◽  
Author(s):  
U.M. Saied ◽  
I.K. Tsanis
Keyword(s):  
Water Wave ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation

scholarly journals Re-design Breakwater di PPI Tulandale Berdasarkan Analisis Hidrodinamika dan Sedimentasi. (Hal. 30-41)

2019 ◽  
Vol 5 (3) ◽  
pp. 30
Author(s):  
Regina Eugeny Destin Wirawan ◽  
Yessi Nirwana Kurniadi ◽  
Fitri Suciaty
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Neap Tide ◽  
Spring Tide ◽  
Current Speed ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
North East ◽  
South West ◽  
Result Show ◽  
Mike 21

ABSTRAKPangkalan Pendaratan Ikan Tulandale berada di Kabupaten Rote Ndao, Provinsi Nusa Tenggara Timur. Breakwater di PPI Tulandale tidak dapat melindungi kolam pelabuhan dari gelombang tinggi. Tujuan dari penelitian ini adalah re-design breakwater pada PPI Tulandale agar dapat melindungi kolam pelabuhan. Simulasi hidrodinamika, transpor sedimen dan transformasi gelombang dilakukan dengan bantuan perangkat lunak Mike 21 untuk 2 buah skenario. Pada skenario alternatif 1, mulut pelabuhan di perkecil menjadi 50 m dan skenario alternatif 2 pada kondisi breakwater eksisting ditambah bangunan breakwater tegak lurus garis pantai sepanjang 200 m. Simulasi dilakukan selama 15 hari. Hasil analisis pada pemodelan, kondisi arus saat pasang purnama dan perbani bergerak dari arah barat daya kearah timur laut dengan kecepatan 0,00–0,08 m/s untuk alternatif 1, sedangkan kecepatan arus alternatif 2 arus sebesar 0,08–0,16 m/s. Hasil pemodelan hidrodinamika, transpor sedimen dan transformasi gelombang menunjukan bahwa bentuk re-design breakwater pada alternatif 2 efektif untuk melindungi kolam pelabuhan di PPI Tulandale karena dapat mereduksi gelombang sebesar 46,7% dari gelombang diluar kolam pelabuhanKata kunci: re-design breakwater, hidrodinamika, sedimentasi ABSTRACTTulandale Fishing Port Tulandale is located in Rote Ndao district, The province of Nusa Tenggara Timur. The Breakwater in Tulandale Fishing Port could not protect the port basin from the height of waves. The aimed of this study is to re-design breakwater in Tulandale Fishing Port in order to protect the port basin. The Hydrodynamic, sediment transport and waves transformation simulation are applied in this study by using mike 21 software for 2 scenarios. In the first scenario, the port basin width is reduced to 50 m and the second scenario is using the existing breakwater condition with the added breakwater building Perpendicular along the coast line for 200m. The simulation run of 15 days. The result show that the condition during the spring tide and neap tide move from south west to north east with 0.00-0.08 m/s for first scenario, while the current speed for the second scenario is is 0.08-0.16 m/s. Hydrodynamic result, sediment transport and wave transformation model that the shape of re-design breakwater on the second scenario more effective to protect the port basin at The Tuandale Fishing Port because the wave decrease at 46.7% from outside the port basin.Keywords: re-design breakwater, hydrodynamics, sedimentation

scholarly journals Novel Exact Solutions of the Extended Shallow Water Wave and the Fokas Equations

2018 ◽  
Vol 22 ◽  
pp. 01022
Author(s):  
Serbay DURAN ◽  
Berat KARAAGAC ◽  
Alaattin ESEN
Keyword(s):  
Partial Differential Equations ◽  
Differential Equations ◽  
Exact Solutions ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Expansion Method ◽  
Travelling Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Partial Differential ◽  
Shallow Water Wave

In this study, a Sine-Gordon expansion method for obtaining novel exact solutions of extended shallow water wave equation and Fokas equation is presented. All of the equations which are under consideration consist of three or four variable. In this method, first of all, partial differential equations are reduced to ordinary differential equations by the help of variable change called as travelling wave transformation, then Sine Gordon expansion method allows us to obtain new exact solutions defined as in terms of hyperbolic trig functions of considered equations. The newly obtained results showed that the method is successful and applicable and can be extended to a wide class of nonlinear partial differential equations.

Extreme Value Prediction on Decreasing Depth by Means of a Nonlinear Wave Transformation Model

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis ◽  
Ch. N. Stefanakos ◽  
Y. G. Georgiou
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Extreme Value ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Series Data ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Wave Parameters

In the present work a weakly nonlinear wave model originally developed by Rebaudengo Lando` et al (1996) is applied to the transformation of wave spectra from offshore to nearshore, and subsequently, it has been systematically applied to the derivation of long-term time series of spectral wave parameters on decreasing depth from corresponding offshore wave data. The derived long-term series of nearshore parameters have been used as input to a new method, recently developed by Stefanakos & Athanassoulis (2006), for calculating return periods of various level values from nonstationary time series data. The latter method is based on a new definition of the return period, that uses the MEan Number of Upcrossings of the level x* (MENU method), and it has been shown to lead to predictions that are more realistic than traditional methods. To examine the effects of bottom topography on the nearshore extreme value predictions, Roseau (1976) bottom profiles have been used for which analytical expressions are available concerning the reflection and transmission coefficients. A parametric (JONSWAP) model is used to synthesize offshore spectra from integrated parameters, which are then linearly transformed based on the previous transmission coefficient to derive first-order nearshore wave spectra. Second-order random sea states have been simulated by following the approach of Hudspeth & Chen (1979) (see also Langley 1987, Lando et al 1996), exploiting the quadratic transfer functions on decreasing depth to calculate the second-order nearshore spectra. Finally, wave parameters are extracted from the nearshore spectra by calculating the first few moments.

scholarly journals IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION AFFECTED BY OPPOSING CURRENTS

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 53
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Kouestu Hiyamizu ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Present Model ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Transformation Model ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Sea Bed ◽  
Dimensionless Unit ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Transformation of irregular waves affected by opposing currents on a sloping sea bed was discussed, experimentally and theoretically. It was found that representative values of wave height, such as a significant wave height, are larger before breaking and the wave height decaying occurs more promptly in a surf zone as opposing currents become dominant, and that characteristics of a irregular wave transformation are determined by the dimensionless unit width discharge q* and the deep water wave steepness. This means that the effects of opposing currents on irregular wave transformation are qualitatively identical to that on the regular waves. A transformation model of irregular waves affected by opposing currents was presented. In the model, formulations for a regular wave transformation, in which the effects of opposing currents were taken into account, were applied to individual waves defined by zero-down" cross-method from irregular wave profiles. Comparisons between experimental results and the prediction by the model showed that the present model gives a good explanation for wave height distributions and the experimental finding that the surf zone is moved offshore by opposing currents.

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