scholarly journals IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION AFFECTED BY OPPOSING CURRENTS

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 53
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Kouestu Hiyamizu ◽  
Hiroshi Saeki

Transformation of irregular waves affected by opposing currents on a sloping sea bed was discussed, experimentally and theoretically. It was found that representative values of wave height, such as a significant wave height, are larger before breaking and the wave height decaying occurs more promptly in a surf zone as opposing currents become dominant, and that characteristics of a irregular wave transformation are determined by the dimensionless unit width discharge q* and the deep water wave steepness. This means that the effects of opposing currents on irregular wave transformation are qualitatively identical to that on the regular waves. A transformation model of irregular waves affected by opposing currents was presented. In the model, formulations for a regular wave transformation, in which the effects of opposing currents were taken into account, were applied to individual waves defined by zero-down" cross-method from irregular wave profiles. Comparisons between experimental results and the prediction by the model showed that the present model gives a good explanation for wave height distributions and the experimental finding that the surf zone is moved offshore by opposing currents.

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 4 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hajime Mase ◽  
Yuichi Iwagaki

The main purpose of this paper is to propose a model for prediction of the spatial distributions of representative wave heights and the frequency distributions of wave heights of irregular waves in shallow-water including the surf zone. In order to examine the validity of the model, some experiments of irregular wave transformation have been made. In addition, an attempt has been made to clarify the spatial distribution of wave grouping experimentally. Especially the present paper focuses finding the effects of the bottom slope and the deep-water wave steepness on the wave height distribution and wave grouping.


2016 ◽  
Vol 858 ◽  
pp. 354-358
Author(s):  
Tao You ◽  
Li Ping Zhao ◽  
Zheng Xiao ◽  
Lun Chao Huang ◽  
Xiao Rui Han

Within the surf zone which is the region extending from the seaward boundary of wave breaking to the limit of wave uprush, breaking waves are the dominant hydrodynamics acting as the key role for sediment transport and beach profile change. Breaking waves exhibit various patterns, principally depending on the incident wave steepness and the beach slope. Based on the equations of conservation of mass, momentum and energy, a theoretical model for wave transformation in and outside the surf zone was obtained, which is used to calculate the wave shoaling, wave set-up and set down and wave height distributions in and outside the surf zone. The analysis and comparison were made about the breaking point location and the wave height variation caused by the wave breaking and the bottom friction, and about the wave breaking criterion under regular and irregular breaking waves. Flume experiments relating to the regular and irregular breaking wave height distribution across the surf zone were conducted to verify the theoretical model. The agreement is good between the theoretical and experimental results.


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 48 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Kimura

The probability distribution of the maximum run of irregular wave height is introduced theoretically. Probability distributions for the 2nd maximum, 3rd maximum and further maximum runs are also introduced. Their statistical properties, including the means and their confidence regions, are applied to the verification of experiments with irregular waves in the realization of a "severe sea state" in the test.


2018 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 119
Author(s):  
Karina Santoso ◽  
I Dewa Nyoman Nurweda Putra ◽  
I Gusti Bagus Sila Dharma

Bali is one of the islands where there are many surf zones with various characteristics. In addition, Bali is also a heaven with a classy wave for the surfers of the world. One of the most challenging places to surf in Bali is Uluwatu Beach. Uluwatu Beach is ranked the 3rd best surf spot in the world version of CNN Travel in 2012. Wind causes sea waves, therefore wind data can be used to estimate the height and direction of the waves. Wave Hindcasting with Sverdrup, Munk and Bretschneider (SMB) method is calculated based on wind data for 10 years (2001 - 2010) from BMKG Ngurah Rai Station - Denpasar to obtain a significant wave height and period. In this research, it is necessary to approach through Hindcasting procedure, wave transformation analysis and surfing Terminology in determining the type of breaking wave and classification of surf zone in Uluwatu Beach area. Wave calculation result in Uluwatu Beach dominated by wave that coming from west side with significant wave height (Hs) of 0.98 m and significant wave period (Ts) of 5.21 s. The wave height due to the influence of wave refraction and shoaling is 0.976 m. The breaking wave height obtained from the calculation is 1.04 m at a depth of 0.849 m. From the result in this research, it can be concluded that the breaking wave type that occurred at Uluwatu Beach is plunging type according to the calculation result from its Irribaren number (0.4 <Ni <2.3). The classification of the surf zone at Uluwatu Beach based on its breakup type of wave is thought to be a good zone for surfers on intermediate level.


Author(s):  
Guttorm Gryto̸yr

The term ‘riser recoil’ refers to the situation when the lower end of a top tensioned riser is released, and the riser is lifted up by the riser tensioner and/or top motion compensator system on the supporting vessel. The elastic energy stored in the riser is then released, and the riser ‘recoils’. This paper focuses on the case of planned disconnect, and builds on ref. [1] which was based on a simplified riser analysis using a rigid body to represent the riser. In the present paper, the methodology has been applied to an elastic riser model in the riser analysis software RIFLEX, from MARINTEK in Trondheim, Norway, which includes axial damping elements required for modeling of the tensioner systems. Completion and Work Over (CWO) risers are unique in the sense that they may be simultaneously connected to both the riser tensioner system and the top motion compensator system of a drilling vessel. A Marine Drilling riser, on the other hand, is only connected to the riser tensioner system. Typically the riser tensioner system has a stroke of ± 8–9 m, whereas the top motion compensator system has only ± 3.5–4 m. It is imperative that the connector is lifted clear of the subsea structure in order to avoid damage to the equipment after the riser has been disconnected. The operating window for planned disconnect of CWO risers is severely limited by the available stroke of the top motion compensator. One of the purposes of the disconnect analysis is to establish the maximum wave height at which there is still sufficient clearance between the connector and the subsea structure after disconnect. Previous experience has shown that this may be the governing limitation for workover operations. The analysis may also establish a maximum tension level, and seastate, to avoid hard stroke-out of the top motion compensator cylinders. This requires an elastic riser model, since a rigid body will yield unphysically large impulse loads in case of stroke-out. The current industry practice is to use a regular wave approach in the analysis. In accordance with ref. [1], the present analysis is performed with irregular wave analyses. The results are documented through a case study of a typical CWO riser system connected to a semi-submersible in typical North Sea environmental conditions. The semi-submersible and the CWO riser system are exposed to irregular waves. Comparison of the resulting allowable wave height shows that using the approach presented here with an elastic riser model yields less conservative results than the previous methodology with a rigid body model. This should be coupled to the findings with the rigid riser model, ref. [1], that irregular waves yield a considerable increase in the operating window, and the resulting operability, compared to a regular wave analysis. Hence, using a regular wave approach combined with a simplified riser model that neglects the flexibility of the riser is expected to yield overly conservative results for the EQDP elevation after disconnect.


2001 ◽  
Vol 24 (6) ◽  
pp. 545-556 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nadia Sénéchal ◽  
Hélène Dupuis ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Hélène Howa ◽  
Rodrigo Pedreros

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 77 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shigeki Sakai ◽  
Kiroshi Saeki

The transformation and the breaking of waves affected by an opposing current on the sloping sea bed were discussed. It was found that the characteristics of wave transformation before breaking point can be determined by the deep water wave steepness and the dimensionless unit width discharge. Concerning the wave decaying due to breaking, the characteristics of the change in the wave height depend only on the slope of the sea bed. Fourth order solutions of Stokes wave on a uniform current were calculated based on the first and second definition of the wave celerity, respectively. The theoretical solutions for wave transformation by the energy flux method were presented. Comparisons between the theoretical solutions and the experimental results gave the criteria of the applicability of our solutions corresponding to the dimensionless unit width discharge. In the calculation of energy flux, it was pointed out that the change in the mean level of the free surface should be taken into account. It was made clear that the change in the mean level of the free surface can be evaluated by Bernoulli's equation, and the energy flux in which the change in the mean level of the free surface was taken into account was proposed. The criteria of breaking corresponding to the dimensionless unit width discharge were clarified, experimentally.


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 29 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Seyama ◽  
Akira Kimura

Wave height change of the zero-down-cross waves on uniform slopes were examined experimentally. The properties of shoaling, breaking and decay after breaking for a total of about 4,000 irregular waves of the Pierson-Moskowitz type on 4 different slopes (1/10, 1/20, 1/30 and 1/50) were investigated. The shoaling property of the zero-down-cross waves can be approximated by the linear wave theory. However, the properties of breaking and decay after breaking differ considerably from those for periodic waves. The wave height water depth ratio (H/d) at the breaking point for the zero-down-cross waves is about 30% smaller than that for periodic waves on average despite the slopes. Wave height decay after breaking also differs from that for periodic waves and can be classified into three regions, i.e. shoaling, plunging and bore regions. Experimental equations for the breaking condition and wave height change after breaking are proposed in the study. A new definition of water depth for the zero-crossing wave analysis which can reduce the fluctuation in the plotted data is also proposed.


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 131
Author(s):  
Chien-Kee Chang ◽  
Ching-Her Hwang

Wave pressure is the most important external force for the design of breakwater. During recent years, there has been considerable development in the technology of vertical face breakwater; however, there is no reliable method to compute wave forces induced by irregular waves. The purpose of this study is to obtain statistical characteristics of irregular wave pressure distribution from the data of model tests. The results of this study shown that vertical face breakwater under the action of irregular waves, some waves are reflected, so that the next wave breaks a critical distance resulting in a rapidly rising shock pressure on the breakwater. On the average, the wave pressure increase with incoming wave height, but the maximum wave force does not necessarily occur for the largest wave height. It can be occurred for serval larger wave group in an appropiate phase composition. The irregular wave pressure distribution on the breakwater is quite uniform; the ratio of tested and calculated wave pressures decreases with the reduction of relative crest height of breakwater. Coda formula can predict the total horizontal force of the upper part of breakwater quite well except exetreme shock pressure occurred by non-breaking waves. Wave forces calculated by Miche-Rundgren and Nagai wave force formula are about 10% cummulated exceeding percentage of wave force obtained from model test.


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