A phase-averaged non-linear wave transformation model

Author(s):  
D. Villarroel-Lamb
2020 ◽  
Vol 10 (12) ◽  
pp. 4087
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina

On the basis of field experiment data, the main features of influence of non-linear wave transformation scenarios on cross-shore sediment transport in coastal zones were investigated. The bottom deformations due to the non-linear wave transformation follow the specific scenario. The increase in the second non-linear harmonic amplitude leads to the erosion of the underwater slope at the distances corresponding to this process, with the subsequent accumulation of sandy material closer to the shore at distances where the amplitude decreases during the backward energy transfer to the first harmonic. This can be explained by the change in the phase shift between harmonics during non-linear wave transformation. The second harmonic maximum provides the point near which the bottom deformations occur in different directions. Scenarios of non-linear wave transformation in which backward energy transfer from the second non-linear harmonic to the first is close to the shoreline will contribute to the transport and accumulation of the sediment on the coast. These scenarios are more characteristic of “small waves”. The scenario without a periodical exchange of wave energy between non-linear harmonics (with an increase in the second harmonic only) that is characteristic of large storm waves and plunging breaking waves will lead to the erosion of the underwater bottom profile.


1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.


2020 ◽  
Vol 53 (2) ◽  
pp. 12334-12339
Author(s):  
M. Bonfanti ◽  
F. Carapellese ◽  
S.A. Sirigu ◽  
G. Bracco ◽  
G. Mattiazzo

2010 ◽  
Vol 34 (8) ◽  
pp. 1984-1999 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ahmadreza Zamani ◽  
Ahmadreza Azimian ◽  
Arnold Heemink ◽  
Dimitri Solomatine

2010 ◽  
Vol 4 (3) ◽  
pp. 359-372 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. J.-M. C. Leysinger Vieli ◽  
G. H. Gudmundsson

Abstract. The advance of a glacier over a deforming sediment layer is analysed numerically. We treat this problem as a contact problem involving two slowly-deforming viscous bodies. The surface evolution of the two bodies, and of the contact interface between them, is followed through time. Using various different non-linear till rheologies, we show how the mode of advance depends on the relative effective viscosities of ice and till. Three modes of advances are observed: (1) overriding, where the glacier advances through ice deformation only and without deforming the sediment; (2) plug-flow, where the sediment is strongly deformed, the ice moves forward as a block and a bulge is built in front of the glacier; and (3) mixed-flow, where the glacier advances through both ice and sediment deformation. For the cases of both overriding and mixed-flow, an inverse depth-age relationship within the ice is obtained. A series of model experiments show the contrast in effective viscosity between ice and till to be the single most important model parameter defining the mode of advance and the resulting thickness distribution of the till. Our model experiments indicate that the thickness of the deforming till layer is greatest close to the glacier front. Measurements of till thickness taken in such locations may not be representative of deforming till thickness elsewhere. Given sufficiently large contrast in effective viscosity between ice and till, a sediment bulge is formed in front of the glacier. During glacier advance, the bulge quickly reaches a steady state form strongly resembling single-crested push moraines. Inspection of particle paths within the sediment bulge, shows that particles within the till travel at a different speed from the bulge itself, and the push moraine to advance as a form-conserving non-linear wave.


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