scholarly journals Infragravity wave generation on shore platforms: Bound long wave versus breakpoint forcing

Geomorphology ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 350 ◽  
pp. 106880
Author(s):  
Tim Poate ◽  
Gerd Masselink ◽  
Martin J. Austin ◽  
Kris Inch ◽  
Mark Dickson ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Generation ◽  
Wave Versus ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Infragravity Wave ◽  
Shore Platforms

scholarly journals UNDULAR BORE DEVELOPMENT OVER A LABORATORY FRINGING REEF

2018 ◽  
pp. 53 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Jochem Dekkers ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Stuart Pearson ◽  
Ap Van Dongeren
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Reef Type ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant modifications of the wave field. The formation of undulations is for example associated to a significant increase of the leading bore height. Moreover, if the undulations have enough time to develop (i.e. if the reef flat is wide enough), the initial long wave will ultimately split into a series of solitons (e.g., Grue et al., 2008). All this is likely to affect wave run-up. As reeffronted coastlines are particularly vulnerable to flooding, a good understanding of long wave transformation over the reef flat, including their possible transformation into undular bores, is crucial. In this study, we investigate undular bore development over reef-type profiles based on a series of laboratory experiments. More specifically, we aim to characterize the conditions under which undular bores develop, and analyse how their development affect the hydrodynamics at the toe of the reef-lined beach and the resulting wave run-up.

scholarly journals Physical and Numerical Modeling of Infragravity Wave Generation and Transformation on Coral Reef Platforms

2019 ◽  
Vol 124 (3) ◽  
pp. 1410-1433 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gerd Masselink ◽  
Megan Tuck ◽  
Robert McCall ◽  
Ap Dongeren ◽  
Murray Ford ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Modeling ◽  
Coral Reef ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Infragravity Wave

scholarly journals Infragravity Wave Generation by Wind Gusts

2019 ◽  
Vol 46 (16) ◽  
pp. 9728-9738 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. Vrećica ◽  
R. Soffer ◽  
Y. Toledo
Keyword(s):  
Wave Generation ◽  
Wind Gusts ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups

1993 ◽  
Vol 247 ◽  
pp. 551-588 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hemming A. Schäffer
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Break Point ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Short Waves ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Integrated Conservation ◽  
Infragravity Wave

A theoretical model for infragravity waves generated by incident short-wave groups is developed. Both normal and oblique short-wave incidence is considered. The depth-integrated conservation equations for mass and momentum averaged over a short-wave period are equivalent to the nonlinear shallow-water equations with a forcing term. In linearized form these equations combine to a second-order long-wave equation including forcing, and this is the equation we solve. The forcing term is expressed in terms of the short-wave radiation stress, and the modelling of these short waves in regard to their breaking and dynamic surf zone behaviour is essential. The model takes into account the time-varying position of the initial break point as well as a (partial) transmission of grouping into the surf zone. The former produces a dynamic set-up, while the latter is equivalent to the short-wave forcing that takes place outside the surf zone. These two effects have a mutual dependence which is modelled by a parameter K, and their relative strength is estimated. Before the waves break, the standard assumption of energy conservation leads to a variation of the radiation stress, which causes a bound, long wave, and the shoaling bottom results in a modification of the solution known for constant depth. The respective effects of this incident bound, long wave and of oscillations of the break-point position are shown to be of the same order of magnitude, and they oppose each other to some extent. The transfer of energy from the short waves to waves at infragravity frequencies is analysed using the depth-integrated conservation equation of energy. For the case of normally incident groups a semi-analytical steady-state solution for the infragravity wave motion is given for a plane beach and small primary-wave modulations. Examples of the resulting surface elevation as well as the corresponding particle velocity and mean infragravity-wave energy flux are presented. Also the sensitivity to the variation of input parameters is analysed. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature. The qualitative agreement is good, but quantitatively the model overestimates the infragravity wave activity. This can, in part, be attributed to the neglect of frictional effects.

scholarly journals Long Wave Generation Induced by Differences in the Wave‐Group Structure

2018 ◽  
Vol 123 (12) ◽  
pp. 8921-8940 ◽  
Author(s):  
Enrique M. Padilla ◽  
Jose M. Alsina
Keyword(s):  
Group Structure ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Long Wave

scholarly journals Pneumatic long-wave generation of tsunami-length waveforms and their runup

2018 ◽  
Vol 138 ◽  
pp. 80-97 ◽  
Author(s):  
D.J. McGovern ◽  
T. Robinson ◽  
I.D. Chandler ◽  
W. Allsop ◽  
T. Rossetto
Keyword(s):  
Wave Generation ◽  
Long Wave

Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms

2009 ◽  
Vol 56 (1) ◽  
pp. 82-89 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Marc Perlin ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Bo Yu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Long Wave

scholarly journals FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 28 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Gerben Ruessink ◽  
Fabien Marche ◽  
Florent Chazel ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Studies ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Complex Interactions ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short- and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)’s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.

Long wave generation on a sloping beach

1972 ◽  
Vol 51 (3) ◽  
pp. 449-461 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. O. Tuck And ◽  
Li-San Hwang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equation ◽  
General Solution ◽  
Linear Theory ◽  
Ground Motion ◽  
Large Amplitude ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Time Histories ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Sloping Beach

A general solution of the linear long-wave equation is obtained for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach. Numerical results are presented for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion. Near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.

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