scholarly journals Long Wave Generation Induced by Differences in the Wave‐Group Structure

2018 ◽  
Vol 123 (12) ◽  
pp. 8921-8940 ◽  
Author(s):  
Enrique M. Padilla ◽  
Jose M. Alsina
Keyword(s):  
Group Structure ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Long Wave

scholarly journals VERIFICATION OF KIMURA's THEORY FOR WAVE GROUP STATISTICS

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 43 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.A. Battjes ◽  
G.Ph. Van Vledder
Keyword(s):  
Wave Motion ◽  
Random Phase ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Original Form ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Sea Waves ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Wave Groupiness ◽  
Active Wave ◽  
Sea Wave

North Sea wave records, obtained in conditions of active wave generation, have been analyzed with respect to the distribution of the length of wave groups. The results are compared to a theory by Kimura, in its original form as well as with the addition of a new spectral wave groupiness parameter, based on the theory of Gaussian processes. The results lend support to the validity of Kimura's theory, this in turn implies further evidence that the phenomenon of wave groups in sea waves can by and large be explained, both qualitatively and quantitatively, in terms of the linear, random phase model for the wave motion, even in conditions of active wave generation.

scholarly journals Pneumatic long-wave generation of tsunami-length waveforms and their runup

2018 ◽  
Vol 138 ◽  
pp. 80-97 ◽  
Author(s):  
D.J. McGovern ◽  
T. Robinson ◽  
I.D. Chandler ◽  
W. Allsop ◽  
T. Rossetto
Keyword(s):  
Wave Generation ◽  
Long Wave

Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms

2009 ◽  
Vol 56 (1) ◽  
pp. 82-89 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Marc Perlin ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Bo Yu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Study ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Long Wave

scholarly journals Importance of second-order wave generation for focused wave group run-up and overtopping

2014 ◽  
Vol 94 ◽  
pp. 63-79 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jana Orszaghova ◽  
Paul H. Taylor ◽  
Alistair G.L. Borthwick ◽  
Alison C. Raby
Keyword(s):  
Wave Generation ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Focused Wave ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Focused Wave Group

Long wave generation on a sloping beach

1972 ◽  
Vol 51 (3) ◽  
pp. 449-461 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. O. Tuck And ◽  
Li-San Hwang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equation ◽  
General Solution ◽  
Linear Theory ◽  
Ground Motion ◽  
Large Amplitude ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Time Histories ◽  
Near Shore ◽  
Sloping Beach

A general solution of the linear long-wave equation is obtained for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach. Numerical results are presented for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion. Near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.

scholarly journals A Numerical Study on Long-Wave Generation due to Air-Pressure Change

2010 ◽  
Vol 66 (1) ◽  
pp. 171-175
Author(s):  
Taro KAKINUMA ◽  
Taisuke INOUE ◽  
Souichiro HIDAKA ◽  
Toshiyuki ASANO ◽  
Kousuke FUKITA
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Study ◽  
Pressure Change ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Air Pressure ◽  
Long Wave

Longshore motion due to an obliquely incident wave group

1983 ◽  
Vol 137 ◽  
pp. 273-284 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. C. Ryrie
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equations ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Obliquely Incident ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Circulation Cell ◽  
A Cell ◽  
Set Up

We consider longshore motion generated within the surf zone by obliquely incident breaking waves, and seek to describe the effect on such motion of variations, caused by wave grouping, in the incident longshore momentum flux. The effects of associated variations in set-up are not considered.We use the linear long-wave equations to describe the motion resulting from the longshore momentum contained in a wave group. This consists of a succession of edge waves which disperse along the beach, and, for the example considered, an eventual steady circulation cell at the position of the wave group. We suggest that such a cell is always likely to be formed if the wave group is sufficiently localized, and that higher-modenumber edge waves are more likely to be excited.We find timescales for the dispersal of the edge waves, and for the decay, due to bottom friction, of the circulation cell: we suggest that the latter may more generally be used, as a timescale for the effect of friction on longshore motion.

scholarly journals Generation, Transformation, and Scattering of Long Waves Induced by a Short-Wave Group over Finite Topography

2011 ◽  
Vol 41 (10) ◽  
pp. 1842-1859 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qingping Zou
Keyword(s):  
Analytical Solutions ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Wave Orbital Velocity ◽  
Variable Water ◽  
Horizontal Bottom

Abstract Second-order analytical solutions are constructed for various long waves generated by a gravity wave train propagating over finite variable depth h(x) using a multiphase Wentzel–Kramers–Brillouin (WKB) method. It is found that, along with the well-known long wave, locked to the envelope of the wave train and traveling at the group velocity Cg, a forced long wave and free long waves are induced by the depth variation in this region. The forced long wave depends on the depth derivatives hx and hxx and travels at Cg, whereas the free long waves depend on h, hx, and hxx and travel in the opposite directions at . They interfere with each other and generate free long waves radiating away from this region. The author found that this topography-induced forced long wave is in quadrature with the short-wave group and that a secondary long-wave orbital velocity is generated by variable water depth, which is in quadrature with its horizontal bottom counterpart. Both these processes play an important role in the energy transfer between the short-wave groups and long waves. These behaviors were not revealed by previous studies on long waves induced by a wave group over finite topography, which calculated the total amplitude of long-wave components numerically without consideration of the phase of the long waves. The analytical solutions here also indicate that the discontinuity of hx and hxx at the topography junctions has a significant effect on the scattered long waves. The controlling factors for the amplitudes of these long waves are identified and the underlying physical processes systematically investigated in this presentation.

scholarly journals ON THE INITIATION OF NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGICAL RHYTHMICITY

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 47
Author(s):  
Matthieu Andreas De Schipper ◽  
Roshanka Ranasinghe ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Marcel Stive
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Initiation Time ◽  
Length Scales ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Storm Wave ◽  
Wave Conditions

Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present priorto the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity.

scholarly journals SEPARATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES BY AN ANALYTICAL METHOD

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 64
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Mechanics ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Present Method ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
International Conference ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

A new method for separating low-frequency waves in time domain is proposed by constructing the analytical signals of the measured waves. Using three simultaneous wave records, the time series of incident bound, free and reflected low-frequency waves can be obtained by the present method. This method is only suitable for separating monochromatic low-frequency waves. The applicability of the method is examined by numerical tests. The results show that the present method can give accurate results over sloping beaches when water depth (kh) is larger than 0.2. Then, the present method is used to study an experiment of low-frequency waves over a mild slope beach. References Bakkenes, H.J. 2002. Observation and separation of bound and free low-frequency waves in the nearshore zone, in Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences. Delft University of Technology: Delft. Baldock, T.E., D.A., Huntley, P.A.D., Bird, T.O., Hare, and G.N., Bullock. 2000. Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coastal Engineering. 30 (2-4): 213-242. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7 Battjes, J.A., Bakkenes, H.J., Janssen, T.T., van Dongeren, A.R. 2004. Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res., 109(C2): C02009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC001863 Bowers, E.C. 1977. Harbour resonance due to set-down beneath wave groups. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 79: 71-92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112077000044 Cohen, L. 1995. Time Frequency Analysis: Theory and Applications. Prentice Hall Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey. Dong, G.H., X.Z., Ma, M., Perlin, Y.X., Ma, B., Yu, and G., Wang. 2009. Experimental Study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms. Coastal Engineering, 56(1), 82-89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.002 Kamphuis, J.W. 2000. Designing for low frequency waves. Proceedings of 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Sydney, Australian. 1434-1447. Kostense, J.K. 1984. Measurements of surf beat and set-down beneath wave groups. Proceedings of 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Houston, USA. 724-740. Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and R.W., Stewart. 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to 'surfbeat'. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 13: 481-504 http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877 Mallat, S. 1999. A Wavelet Tour of Signal Processing. Academic Press. PMCid:407895 Nagai, T., N., Hashimoto, T., Asai, et al. 1994. Relationship of a moored vessel in a harbor and a long wave caused by wave groups. Proceedings of 17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Kobe, Japan. 847-861. Schäffer, H.A. 1993. Second-orderwavemaker theory for irregularwaves.Ocean Engineering. 23 (1), 47–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(95)00013-B Symonds, G.D.A., D.A., Huntley, and A.J., Bowen. 1982. Two-dimensional surf beat-long-wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. Journal of Geophysical Research. 87(C1): 492-498. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492 Yu, J. and C.C., Mei. 2000. Formation of sand bars under surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 416: 315-348. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112000001063

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