scholarly journals UNDULAR BORE DEVELOPMENT OVER A LABORATORY FRINGING REEF

2018 ◽  
pp. 53 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Jochem Dekkers ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Stuart Pearson ◽  
Ap Van Dongeren
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Undular Bore ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Reef Type ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant modifications of the wave field. The formation of undulations is for example associated to a significant increase of the leading bore height. Moreover, if the undulations have enough time to develop (i.e. if the reef flat is wide enough), the initial long wave will ultimately split into a series of solitons (e.g., Grue et al., 2008). All this is likely to affect wave run-up. As reeffronted coastlines are particularly vulnerable to flooding, a good understanding of long wave transformation over the reef flat, including their possible transformation into undular bores, is crucial. In this study, we investigate undular bore development over reef-type profiles based on a series of laboratory experiments. More specifically, we aim to characterize the conditions under which undular bores develop, and analyse how their development affect the hydrodynamics at the toe of the reef-lined beach and the resulting wave run-up.

Characteristics of Transforming Waves Breaking Over a Fringing Reef

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fuxian Gong ◽  
Manhar R. Dhanak
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fundamental Wave ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract Direct numerical simulation (DNS), based on solution of the Navier Stokes equations, is used to study the characteristics of the transformation of monochromatic waves over a simplified fringing reef, including wave shoaling, and wave breaking that occurs under certain circumstances. The reef geometry involves a sloped plane beach extended with a simple submerged horizontal reef flat. The characteristics are studied for several case studies involving a selection of submergence depths on the reef flat and for a range of incident wave conditions, corresponding to nonbreaking, a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker, are considered. The results are compared with those of laboratory experiments (Kouvaras and Dhanak, 2018). Consistent with other studies, generation of harmonics of the fundamental wave frequency is found to accompany the wave transformation over the reef and the process of transfer of energy through wave breaking. The energy flux decreases dramatically in the onshore direction when the waves break. The more severe the wave breaking process, the greater the decrease in energy flux, particularly in the wave shoaling process. Most of the wave energy is carried by the first harmonic throughout its passage over the fringing reef. In nonbreaking waves, the energy gradually transfers from the first harmonic to the second harmonic due to bottom effects in terms of flat wave troughs and secondary waves. The further the distance away from the fore edge of the reef, the larger the percentage of the transmission, resulting in a single dominant harmonic frequency at the end of the wave surfing zone. For breaking waves, the energy carried by the first harmonic gradually decreases in the onshore direction. Energy transmission between harmonics is not as efficient as nonbreaking waves, while wave dissipation is significant in the wave breaking process.

scholarly journals The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef

2012 ◽  
Vol 117 (C11) ◽  
pp. n/a-n/a ◽  
Author(s):  
Andrew Pomeroy ◽  
Ryan Lowe ◽  
Graham Symonds ◽  
Ap Van Dongeren ◽  
Christine Moore
Keyword(s):  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Infragravity Wave

scholarly journals TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (8) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
Tsutomu Kishi
Keyword(s):  
Approximate Solutions ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Parabolic Profile ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Short Period ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Linear Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Considerable Deformation

On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation. In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief considerations are given to the effects of bottom friction on wave transformation. In § 2, breaking of a long wave is discussed. Breakings on a uniformly sloping beach and on a beach of parabolic profile are considered and the effects of beach profile on breaking are clarified. Finally in § 3, experimental results on wave run-up over l/30 slope are described in comparing with the Kaplan's results.

scholarly journals FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 28 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
Gerben Ruessink ◽  
Fabien Marche ◽  
Florent Chazel ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Field Studies ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Type Model ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Complex Interactions ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Infragravity Wave

Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short- and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)’s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.

scholarly journals A Study of the Maximum Momentum Flux in the Solitary Wave Run-Up Zone over Back-Reef Slopes Based on a Boussinesq Model

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (4) ◽  
pp. 109 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liu ◽  
Shao ◽  
Ning
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Shock Capturing ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Back Reef ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard.

Numerical Investigation of Wave Period Influence on Long Wave Run-Up on Slope With Rigid Vegetation

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jun Tang ◽  
Yongming Shen
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Coastal Vegetation ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Rigid Vegetation ◽  
Comparison With Experiment ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Run Up

Coastal vegetation can not only provide shade to coastal structures but also reduce wave run-up. Study of long water wave climb on vegetation beach is fundamental to understanding that how wave run-up may be reduced by planted vegetation along coastline. The present study investigates wave period influence on long wave run-up on a partially-vegetated plane slope via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison’s formulation for rigid structures induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical scheme is validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to investigate long wave with diverse periods propagating and run-up on a partially-vegetated 1:20 plane slope, and the sensitivity of run-up to wave period is investigated based on the numerical results.

Report on the International Workshop on Long-Wave Run-up

1991 ◽  
Vol 229 (-1) ◽  
pp. 675 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip L.-F. Liu ◽  
Costas E. Synolakis ◽  
Harry H. Yeh
Keyword(s):  
International Workshop ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals INTERACTION OF IDEALIZED URBAN INFRASTRUCTURE AND LONG WAVES DURING RUN-UP AND ON-LAND FLOW PROCESS IN COASTAL REGIONS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 18 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nils Goseberg ◽  
Torsten Schlurmann
Keyword(s):  
Shock Wave ◽  
Urban Infrastructure ◽  
Coastal Regions ◽  
Flow Process ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Roughness Elements ◽  
Shock Wave Generation ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Good Agreement

This paper reports experimental results of long wave run-up climbing up a 1:40 sloping beach. The resulting maximum run-up is compared with analytical results and a good agreement is found for single sinusoidal waves with uniform wave period and varying amplitude. Subsequently, the interaction with macro-roughness elements on the beach is investigated for different long-shore obstruction ratios. The reduction in wave run-up is expressed by means of a nomogram relating the wave run-up without macro-roughness elements present to those cases where on-land flow is modified by macro-roughness. The presented results mainly focus on a non-staggered and non-rotated macro-roughness configuration. In addition to the run-up reduction, surface elevation profiles on the shore are presented, that address the shock wave generation when the wave tongue approaches the first row of macro-roughness elements.

scholarly journals Coral mortality induced by the 2015–2016 El-Niño in Indonesia: the effect of rapid sea level fall

2017 ◽  
Vol 14 (4) ◽  
pp. 817-826 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eghbert Elvan Ampou ◽  
Ofri Johan ◽  
Christophe E. Menkes ◽  
Fernando Niño ◽  
Florence Birol ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Coral Reefs ◽  
Sea Level ◽  
El Niño ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
El Nino ◽  
Differential Mortality ◽  
Altimetry Data ◽  
Bathymetric Range ◽  
The Past ◽  
Coral Genus

Abstract. The 2015–2016 El-Niño and related ocean warming has generated significant coral bleaching and mortality worldwide. In Indonesia, the first signs of bleaching were reported in April 2016. However, this El Niño has impacted Indonesian coral reefs since 2015 through a different process than temperature-induced bleaching. In September 2015, altimetry data show that sea level was at its lowest in the past 12 years, affecting corals living in the bathymetric range exposed to unusual emersion. In March 2016, Bunaken Island (North Sulawesi) displayed up to 85 % mortality on reef flats dominated by Porites, Heliopora and Goniastrea corals with differential mortality rates by coral genus. Almost all reef flats showed evidence of mortality, representing 30 % of Bunaken reefs. For reef flat communities which were living at a depth close to the pre-El Niño mean low sea level, the fall induced substantial mortality likely by higher daily aerial exposure, at least during low tide periods. Altimetry data were used to map sea level fall throughout Indonesia, suggesting that similar mortality could be widespread for shallow reef flat communities, which accounts for a vast percent of the total extent of coral reefs in Indonesia. The altimetry historical records also suggest that such an event was not unique in the past two decades, therefore rapid sea level fall could be more important in the dynamics and resilience of Indonesian reef flat communities than previously thought. The clear link between mortality and sea level fall also calls for a refinement of the hierarchy of El Niño impacts and their consequences on coral reefs.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document