Extreme run-up events on a vertical wall due to nonlinear evolution of incident wave groups

2016 ◽  
Vol 797 ◽  
pp. 644-664 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gal Akrish ◽  
Oded Rabinovitch ◽  
Yehuda Agnon
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Run Up

Nonlinear evolution of long-crested wave groups can lead to extreme interactions with coastal and marine structures. In the present study the role of nonlinear evolution in the formation of extreme run-up events on a vertical wall is investigated. To this end, the fundamental problem of interaction between non-breaking water waves and a vertical wall over constant water depth is considered. In order to simulate nonlinear wave–wall interactions, the high-order spectral method is applied to a computational domain which aims to represent a two-dimensional wave flume. Wave generation is simulated at the flume entrance by means of the additional potential concept. Through this concept, the implementation of a numerical wavemaker is applicable. In addition to computational efficiency, the adopted numerical approach enables one to consider the evolution of nonlinear waves while preserving full dispersivity. Utilizing these properties, the influence of the nonlinear wave evolution on the wave run-up can be examined for a wide range of water depths. In shallow water, it is known that nonlinear evolution of incident waves may result in extreme run-up events due to the formation of an undular bore. The present study reveals the influence of the nonlinear evolution on the wave run-up in deep-water conditions. The results suggest that extreme run-up events in deep water may occur as a result of the disintegration of incident wave groups into envelope solitons.

scholarly journals On Determining the Onset and Strength of Breaking for Deep Water Waves. Part I: Unforced Irrotational Wave Groups

2002 ◽  
Vol 32 (9) ◽  
pp. 2541-2558 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jin-Bao Song ◽  
Michael L. Banner
Keyword(s):  
Growth Rate ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Average Growth ◽  
Deep Water Waves

Abstract Finding a robust threshold variable that determines the onset of breaking for deep water waves has been an elusive problem for many decades. Recent numerical studies of the unforced evolution of two-dimensional nonlinear wave trains have highlighted the complex evolution to recurrence or breaking, together with the fundamental role played by nonlinear intrawave group dynamics. In Part I of this paper the scope of two-dimensional nonlinear wave group calculations is extended by using a wave-group-following approach applied to a wider class of initial wave group geometries, with the primary goal of identifying the differences between evolution to recurrence and to breaking onset. Part II examines the additional influences of wind forcing and background shear on these evolution processes. The present investigation focuses on the long-term evolution of the maximum of the local energy density along wave groups. It contributes a more complete picture, both long-term and short-term, of the approach to breaking and identifies a dimensionless local average growth rate parameter that is associated with the mean convergence of wave-coherent energy at the wave group maximum. This diagnostic growth rate appears to have a common threshold for all routes to breaking in deep water that have been examined and provides an earlier and more decisive indicator for the onset of breaking than previously proposed breaking thresholds. The authors suggest that this growth rate may also provide an indicative measure of the strength of wave breaking events.

scholarly journals MACH-REFLECTION AS A DIFFRACTION PROBLEM

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Udo Berger ◽  
Soren Kohlhase
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Gas Dynamics ◽  
Mach Reflection ◽  
Diffraction Problem ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Waves

As under oblique wave approach water waves are reflected by a vertical wall, a wave branching effect (stem) develops normal to the reflecting wall. The waves progressing along the wall will steep up. The wave heights increase up to more than twice the incident wave height. The £jtudy has pointed out that this effect, which is usually called MACH-REFLECTION, is not to be taken as an analogy to gas dynamics, but should be interpreted as a diffraction problem.

scholarly journals SURF SIMILARITY

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.A. Battjes
Keyword(s):  
Phase Difference ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Wave Steepness ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
General Terms ◽  
Depth Ratio ◽  
Run Up ◽  
Set Up

This paper deals with the following aspects of periodic water waves breaking on a plane slope breaking criterion, breaker type, phase difference across the surfzone, breaker height-to-depth ratio, run-up and set-up, and reflection. It is shown that these are approximately governed by a single similarity parameter only, embodying both the effects of slope angle and incident wave steepness. Various physical interpretations of this similarity parameter are given, while its role is discussed m general terms from the viewpoint of model prototype similarity.

scholarly journals Effect of Capillarity on Fourth Order Nonlinear Evolution Equation for Two Stokes Wave Trains in Deep Water in the Presence of Air Flowing Over Water

2015 ◽  
Vol 20 (2) ◽  
pp. 267-282
Author(s):  
A.K. Dhar ◽  
J. Mondal
Keyword(s):  
Fourth Order ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Nonlinear Evolution Equations ◽  
Wave Number ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Instability Wave ◽  
Starting Point

Abstract Fourth order nonlinear evolution equations, which are a good starting point for the study of nonlinear water waves, are derived for deep water surface capillary gravity waves in the presence of second waves in which air is blowing over water. Here it is assumed that the space variation of the amplitude takes place only in a direction along which the group velocity projection of the two waves overlap. A stability analysis is made for a uniform wave train in the presence of a second wave train. Graphs are plotted for the maximum growth rate of instability wave number at marginal stability and wave number separation of fastest growing sideband component against wave steepness. Significant improvements are noticed from the results obtained from the two coupled third order nonlinear Schrödinger equations.

scholarly journals CFD Analysis of Water Solitary Wave Reflection

2011 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 10 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. Smida ◽  
H. Lamloumi ◽  
K. Maalel ◽  
Z. Hafsia
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Collision Process ◽  
Linear Waves ◽  
Run Up

 A new numerical wave generation method is used to investigate the head-on collision of two solitary waves. The reflection at vertical wall of a solitary wave is also presented. The originality of this model, based on the Navier-Stokes equations, is the specification of an internal inlet velocity, defined as a source line within the computational domain for the generation of these non linear waves. This model was successfully implemented in the PHOENICS (Parabolic Hyperbolic Or Elliptic Numerical Integration Code Series) code. The collision of two counter-propagating solitary waves is similar to the interaction of a soliton with a vertical wall. This wave generation method allows the saving of considerable time for this collision process since the counter-propagating wave is generated directly without reflection at vertical wall. For the collision of two solitary waves, numerical results show that the run-up phenomenon can be well explained, the solution of the maximum wave run-up is almost equal to experimental measurement. The simulated wave profiles during the collision are in good agreement with experimental results. For the reflection at vertical wall, the spatial profiles of the wave at fixed instants show that this problem is equivalent to the collision process. 

Multi-Layer Modeling of Wave Groups From Deep to Shallow Water

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Patrick Lynett ◽  
Philip L.-F. Liu ◽  
Hwung-Hweng Hwung ◽  
Wen-Son Ching
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Layer Model ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Good Linear ◽  
Model Equations ◽  
Linear Accuracy

A set of model equations for water wave propagation is derived by piecewise integration of the primitive equations of motion through N arbitrary layers. Within each layer, an independent velocity profile is determined. With N separate velocity profiles, matched at the interfaces of the layers, the resulting set of equations have N+1 free parameters, allowing for an optimization with known analytical properties of water waves. The optimized two-layer model equations show good linear wave characteristics up to kh ≈8, while the second-order nonlinear behavior is well captured to kh ≈6. The three-layer model shows good linear accuracy to kh ≈14, and the four layer to kh ≈20. A numerical algorithm for solving the model equations is developed and tested against nonlinear deep-water wave-group experiments, where the kh of the carrier wave in deep water is around 6. The experiments are set up such that the wave groups, initially in deep water, propagate up a constant slope until reaching shallow water. The overall comparison between the multi-layer model and the experiment is quite good, indicating that the multi-layer theory has good nonlinear, as well has linear, accuracy for deep-water waves.

Vorticity effects on nonlinear wave–current interactions in deep water

2015 ◽  
Vol 778 ◽  
pp. 314-334 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. M. Moreira ◽  
J. T. A. Chacaltana
Keyword(s):  
Shear Flow ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surface Profile ◽  
Boundary Integral ◽  
Progressive Waves ◽  
Wave Blocking ◽  
Deep Water Waves

The effects of uniform vorticity on a train of ‘gentle’ and ‘steep’ deep-water waves interacting with underlying flows are investigated through a fully nonlinear boundary integral method. It is shown that wave blocking and breaking can be more prominent depending on the magnitude and direction of the shear flow. Reflection continues to occur when sufficiently strong adverse currents are imposed on ‘gentle’ deep-water waves, though now affected by vorticity. For increasingly positive values of vorticity, the induced shear flow reduces the speed of right-going progressive waves, introducing significant changes to the free-surface profile until waves are completely blocked by the underlying current. A plunging breaker is formed at the blocking point when ‘steep’ deep-water waves interact with strong adverse currents. Conversely negative vorticities augment the speed of right-going progressive waves, with wave breaking being detected for strong opposing currents. The time of breaking is sensitive to the vorticity’s sign and magnitude, with wave breaking occurring later for negative values of vorticity. Stopping velocities according to nonlinear wave theory proved to be sufficient to cause wave blocking and breaking.

scholarly journals Experimental study of particle trajectories below deep-water surface gravity wave groups

2019 ◽  
Vol 879 ◽  
pp. 168-186 ◽  
Author(s):  
T. S. van den Bremer ◽  
C. Whittaker ◽  
R. Calvert ◽  
A. Raby ◽  
P. H. Taylor
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Stokes Drift ◽  
Surface Gravity ◽  
Return Flow ◽  
Surface Gravity Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Wave Induced

Owing to the interplay between the forward Stokes drift and the backward wave-induced Eulerian return flow, Lagrangian particles underneath surface gravity wave groups can follow different trajectories depending on their initial depth below the surface. The motion of particles near the free surface is dominated by the waves and their Stokes drift, whereas particles at large depths follow horseshoe-shaped trajectories dominated by the Eulerian return flow. For unidirectional wave groups, a small net displacement in the direction of travel of the group results near the surface, and is accompanied by a net particle displacement in the opposite direction at depth. For deep-water waves, we study these trajectories experimentally by means of particle tracking velocimetry in a two-dimensional flume. In doing so, we provide visual illustration of Lagrangian trajectories under groups, including the contributions of both the Stokes drift and the Eulerian return flow to both the horizontal and the vertical Lagrangian displacements. We compare our experimental results to leading-order solutions of the irrotational water wave equations, finding good agreement.

Deep-water plunging wave pressures on a vertical plane wall

1988 ◽  
Vol 417 (1852) ◽  
pp. 95-131 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Vertical Plane ◽  
Kinematics And Dynamics ◽  
Pressure Oscillations ◽  
Trapped Air ◽  
Simultaneous Measurements ◽  
Measured Pressure

A systematic study is presented of pressures on a vertical wall resulting from controlled, plunging waves in deep water. Simultaneous measurements of the kinematics and dynamics of impact show that impact occurs through the focusing of the incident wave front onto the wall, trapping some amount of air in the process. Impact leads to high impulsive pressures, and the dynamics of trapped air can lead to even higher pressures coupled with pressure oscillations. Impact pressures may be decomposed into contributions due to the hydrodynamics of impact and the trapped-air dynamics. The latter is still poorly understood and the extrapolation of measured pressure maxima from laboratory scales to prototype scales is at this stage impossible. Overall, the characteristics and distributions of impact pressures depend significantly on the wall location relative to the wave-breaking location. However, at each wall location, identical incident wave conditions could yield significantly different impact pressures, mainly because of the randomness of the trapped-air dynamics during wave breaking.

Bound Coherent Structures Propagating on the Free Surface of Deep Water

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Dremov ◽  
Dmitry Kachulin ◽  
Alexander Dyachenko
Keyword(s):  
Free Surface ◽  
Incompressible Fluid ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Coherent Structures ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Initial Conditions ◽  
Soliton Solutions ◽  
Ideal Incompressible Fluid ◽  
System Of Nonlinear Equations ◽  
Computational Domain

<p><span>               The work presents the results of studying the bound coherent structures propagating on the free surface of ideal incompressible fluid of infinite depth. Examples of such structures are bi-solitons which are exact solutions of the known approximate model for deep water waves — the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE). Recently, when studying multiple breathers collisions, the occurrence of such objects was found in a more accurate model of the supercompact equation for unidirectional water waves [1]. The aim of this work is obtaining and further studying such structures with different parameters in the supercompact equation and in the full system of nonlinear equations for potential flows of an ideal incompressible fluid written in conformal variables. </span><span>The algorithm used for finding the bound coherent objects was similar to the one described in [2]. As the initial conditions for obtaining such structures in the framework of the above models, the NLSE bi-soliton solutions were used, as well as two single breathers numerically found by the Petviashvili method and placed in a same point of the computational domain. During the evolution calculation the initial structures emitted incoherent waves which were filtered at the boundaries of the domain using the damping procedure. It is shown that after switching off the filtering of radiation, periodically oscillating coherent objects remain on the surface of the liquid, propagate stably during one hundred thousand characteristic wave periods and do not lose energy. The profiles of such structures at different parameters are compared.</span></p><p><span>This work was supported by RSF grant </span><span>19-72-30028</span><span> and </span><span>RFBR grant </span><span>20-31-90093</span><span>.</span></p><p><span>[1] Kachulin D., Dyachenko A., Dremov S. Multiple Soliton Interactions on the Surface of Deep Water //Fluids. – 2020. – Т. 5. – №. 2. – С. 65.</span></p><p><span>[2] Dyachenko A. I., Zakharov V. E. On the formation of freak waves on the surface of deep water //JETP letters. – 2008. – Т. 88. – №. 5. – С. 307.</span></p>

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