The second approximation to cnoidal and solitary waves

1960 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 430-444 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. V. Laitone
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Expansion Method ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
First Approximation ◽  
Systematic Development ◽  
Horizontal Bottom

The expansion method introduced by Friedrichs (1948) for the systematic development of shallow-water theory for water waves of large wavelength was used by Keller (1948) to obtain the first approximation for the finite-amplitude solitary wave of Boussinesq (1872) and Rayleigh (1876), as well as for periodic waves of permanent type, corresponding to the cnoidal waves of Korteweg & de Vries (1895).The present investigation extends Friedrich's method so as to include terms up to the fourth order from shallow-water theory for a flat horizontal bottom, and thereby obtains the complete second approximations to both cnoidal and solitary waves. These second approximations show that, unlike the first approximation, the vertical motions cannot be considered as negligible, and that the pressure variation is no longer hydrostatic.

Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach

1958 ◽  
Vol 4 (1) ◽  
pp. 97-109 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. F. Carrier ◽  
H. P. Greenspan
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Explicit Solutions ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Wave Forms ◽  
Time Histories ◽  
Sloping Beach

In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.

Reflection of a shallow-water soliton. Part 1. Edge layer for shallow-water waves

1984 ◽  
Vol 146 ◽  
pp. 369-382 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. Sugimoto ◽  
T. Kakutani
Keyword(s):  
Boundary Condition ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Equation ◽  
Expansion Method ◽  
Matching Condition ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Matched Asymptotic Expansion ◽  
Dispersive Waves ◽  
Edge Layer

To investigate reflection of a shallow-water soliton at a sloping beach, the edge-layer theory is developed to obtain a ‘reduced’ boundary condition relevant to the simplified shallow-water equation describing the weakly dispersive waves of small but finite amplitude. An edge layer is introduced to take account of the essentially two-dimensional motion that appears in the narrow region adjacent to the beach. By using the matched-asymptotic-expansion method, the edge-layer theory is formulated to cope with the shallow-water theory in the offshore region and the boundary condition at the beach. The ‘reduced’ boundary condition is derived as a result of the matching condition between the two regions. An explicit edge-layer solution is obtained on assuming a plane beach.

On periodic water-waves and their convergence to solitary waves in the long-wave limit

1981 ◽  
Vol 303 (1481) ◽  
pp. 633-669 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Integral Equation ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Periodic Problem ◽  
Existence Theory ◽  
Periodic Waves ◽  
Equation Formulation ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Integral Equation Formulation ◽  
Wave Limit

A detailed discussion of Nekrasov’s approach to the steady water-wave problems leads to a new integral equation formulation of the periodic problem. This development allows the adaptation of the methods of Amick & Toland (1981) to show the convergence of periodic waves to solitary waves in the long-wave limit. In addition, it is shown how the classical integral equation formulation due to Nekrasov leads, via the Maximum Principle, to new results about qualitative features of periodic waves for which there has long been a global existence theory (Krasovskii 1961, Keady & Norbury 1978).

Asynchronous whirl in a rotating cylinder partially filled with liquid

1985 ◽  
Vol 150 ◽  
pp. 311-327 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. S. Berman ◽  
T. S. Lundgren ◽  
A. Cheng
Keyword(s):  
Surface Waves ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Rotating Cylinder ◽  
The Self ◽  
Hydraulic Jumps ◽  
Centrifugal Forces ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Analytical Results

Experimental and analytical results are presented for the self-excited oscillations that occur in a partially filled centrifuge when centrifugal forces interact with shallow-water waves. Periodic and aperiodic modulations of the basic whirl phenomena are both observed and calculated. The surface waves are found to be hydraulic jumps, undular bores or solitary waves.

scholarly journals ESTIMATION OF WATER PARTICLE VELOCITIES OF SHALLOW WATER WAVES BY A MODIFIED TRANSFER FUNCTION METHOD

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 33 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hirofumi Koyama ◽  
Koichiro Iwata
Keyword(s):  
Transfer Function ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Approximate Method ◽  
Stream Function ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Function Method ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Water Particle ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Particle Velocities

This paper Is intended to propose a simple, yet highly reliable approximate method which uses a modified transfer function in order to evaluate the water particle velocity of finite amplitude waves at shallow water depth in regular and irregular wave environments. Using Dean's stream function theory, the linear function is modified so as to include the nonlinear effect of finite amplitude wave. The approximate method proposed here employs the modified transfer function. Laboratory experiments have been carried out to examine the validity of the proposed method. The approximate method is shown to estimate well the experimental values, as accurately as Dean's stream function method, although its calculation procedure is much simpler than that of Dean's method.

scholarly journals A conservative fully-discrete numerical method for the regularised shallow water wave equations

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dimitrios Mitsotakis ◽  
Hendrik Ranocha ◽  
David I Ketcheson ◽  
Endre Süli
Keyword(s):  
Finite Element ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Numerical Method ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Equations ◽  
Mixed Finite Element ◽  
Boussinesq System ◽  
Fully Discrete ◽  
Long Time

The paper proposes a new, conservative fully-discrete scheme for the numerical solution of the regularised shallow water Boussinesq system of equations in the cases of periodic and reflective boundary conditions. The particular system is one of a class of equations derived recently and can be used in practical simulations to describe the propagation of weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive long water waves, such as tsunamis. Studies of small-amplitude long waves usually require long-time simulations in order to investigate scenarios such as the overtaking collision of two solitary waves or the propagation of transoceanic tsunamis. For long-time simulations of non-dissipative waves such as solitary waves, the preservation of the total energy by the numerical method can be crucial in the quality of the approximation. The new conservative fully-discrete method consists of a Galerkin finite element method for spatial semidiscretisation and an explicit relaxation Runge--Kutta scheme for integration in time. The Galerkin method is expressed and implemented in the framework of mixed finite element methods. The paper provides an extended experimental study of the accuracy and convergence properties of the new numerical method. The experiments reveal a new convergence pattern compared to standard Galerkin methods.

Experiments on strong interactions between solitary waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 85 (3) ◽  
pp. 417-431 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. D. Weidman ◽  
T. Maxworthy
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Solitary Waves ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Vries Equation ◽  
Rectangular Channel ◽  
Quantitative Agreement ◽  
Strong Interactions ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Qualitative And Quantitative ◽  
The Waves

Experiments on the interaction between solitary shallow-water waves propagating in the same direction have been performed in a rectangular channel. Two methods were devised to compensate for the dissipation of the waves in order to compare results with Hirota's (1971) solution for the collision of solitons described by the Kortewegde Vries equation. Both qualitative and quantitative agreement with theory is obtained using the proposed corrections for wave damping.

Finite amplitude effects in free and forced edge waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 83 (3) ◽  
pp. 463-479 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicole Rockliff
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Side Wall ◽  
Free Edge ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Standing Edge Waves

The effect of non-linearity on standing edge waves is studied on the basis of shallow water theory. Four problems are considered: the decay of free edge waves and the forcing of edge waves by an incident wave of double the frequency, a synchronous incident wave and by a side-wall wavemaker. Hysteresis effects are predicted for all types of forcing.

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