Generation and Propagation of Water Waves in a Two-Dimensional Numerical Viscous Wave Flume

Author(s):  
Chih-Ming Dong ◽  
Ching-Jer Huang
Author(s):  
Didier Clamond

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


1998 ◽  
Vol 10 (9) ◽  
pp. 2405-2411 ◽  
Author(s):  
Z. C. Feng
Keyword(s):  

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ming-ming Liu ◽  
Ming Zhao ◽  
Lin Lu

Water waves play an important role in local scour around subsea pipelines laid on the sandy seabed, especially in shallow water regions. In this paper, a two-dimensional numerical model is employed to predict local scour around submarine pipelines under water waves in shoaling condition. The motion of water under waves is simulated by solving the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations. The evolution of the seabed surface near the pipeline is predicted by solving the conservation of the sediment mass, which transport in the water in the forms of bed load and suspended load. The main aim of this study is to investigate the effect of the seabed slope on the scour profiles and scour depth. To achieve this aim, numerical simulations of scour around a pipeline on a flat seabed and on a slope seabed with a slope angle of 15° are conducted for various wave conditions.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 85 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ryoichi Kajima ◽  
Takao Shimizu ◽  
Kohki Maruyama ◽  
Shozo Saito

Two-dimensional beach profile changes were investigated with a newly constructed prototype-scale wave flume. The flume is 205 m long, 3.4 m wide and 6 m deep. Sand of two grain sizes was used in the experiments. Analysis of the results was made through use of the parameter C, introduced by Sunamura and Horikawa (1974) to classify beaches as either erosional and accretionary. Beach profile changes obtained in the flume were similar to those in the prototype (field). Net sand transport rate distributions were classified into five types, two of which do not seem to have been observed in laboratory (smallscale) experiments. A simple model describing the five types was developed for evaluating two-dimensional beach profile changes.


2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 9 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kostas Belibassakis ◽  
Julien Touboul ◽  
Elodie Laffitte ◽  
Vincent Rey

Extended mild-slope models (MMSs) are examined for predicting the characteristics of normally incident waves propagating over sinusoidal bottom topography in the presence of opposing shearing currents. It is shown that MMSs are able to provide quite good predictions in the case of Bragg scattering of waves over rippled bathymetry without a current, but fail to provide good predictions concerning the resonant frequency in the additional presence of a current. In order to resolve the above mismatch, a two-equation mild-slope system (CMS2) is derived from a variational principle based on the representation of the wave potential expressed as a superposition of the forward and backward components. The latter system is compared against experimentally measured data collected in a wave flume and is shown to provide more accurate predictions concerning both the resonant frequency and the amplitude of the reflection coefficient. Future work will be devoted to the examination of the derived model for a more general wave system over realistic seabed topography.


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