Changing of Wave Climate Due to Breaking on a Tidal Inlet Bar

Author(s):  
Hanz Dieter Niemeyer
Keyword(s):  
1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 105
Author(s):  
Hanz Dieter Niemeyer

Changes of wave climate due to breaking on a tidal inlet bar are investigated by analysis of field measurements prosecuted offshore and onshore of the bar. Quantitative results for wave height reduction, period and length transformation and energy dissipation are presented as well as a study considering the dominating breaking criterion.


2011 ◽  
Vol 31 (18) ◽  
pp. 1915-1930 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicolas Bruneau ◽  
André B. Fortunato ◽  
Guillaume Dodet ◽  
Paula Freire ◽  
Anabela Oliveira ◽  
...  

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 108 ◽  
Author(s):  
Seth Logan ◽  
Ioan Nistor ◽  
Andrew Cornett ◽  
Thierry Faure ◽  
Alain Drouin

This paper is presenting the results of an extensive field and numerical modeling investigation of a morphologically dynamic tidal inlet. Shippagan Gully is a tidal inlet located near Shippagan, New-Brunswick, Canada, on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It is a particularly complex tidal inlet due to the fact that its tidal lagoon transects the Acadian peninsula and is open to the Bay des Chaleurs at its opposite end. As such, two open boundaries with phase lagged tidal cycles drive flow through the inlet, alternating direction with each tide and reaching velocities in excess of 2 m/s. Hydrodynamic and morphological processes at the site are further complicated by the presence of a highly variable wave climate. Presently, shipping practices through the inlet are limited due to continual sedimentation within and immediately offshore from Shippagan Gully. As such, an extensive field study, desktop analysis and numerical and morphological modeling of Shippagan Gully have been conducted in order to provide guidance for future works. Modeling was conducted using the CMS-Wave and CMS-Flow numerical modeling system. Sedimentation inside the inlet was shown to be ebb tide-induced deposition; while wave induced deposition was demonstrated elsewhere. The methodology and selected results of this study are presented herein.


Author(s):  
Douglas L. Inman ◽  
Scott A. Jenkins ◽  
M. Hany S. Elwany

Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.


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