A Two-Dimensional Wave Flume Investigation into the Effect of Multiple Vertical Steps on the Form of Breaking Waves

2008 ◽  
Vol 241 ◽  
pp. 51-58 ◽  
Author(s):  
Iain Fairley ◽  
Mark A. Davidson
Keyword(s):  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Dimensional Wave

A study of the stability of dynamically stable breakwaters

1991 ◽  
Vol 18 (6) ◽  
pp. 916-925 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. R. Hall ◽  
Joseph S. Kao
Keyword(s):  
Research Laboratory ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Uniformity Coefficient ◽  
Engineering Research ◽  
Hydraulic Models ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
The Stability ◽  
Dimensional Wave

The effect of gradation of armour stones and the amount of rounded stones in the armour on dynamically stable breakwaters was assessed in a two-dimensional wave flume. A total of 52 series of tests were undertaken at the Coastal Engineering Research Laboratory of Queen's University, Kingston, Canada using irregular waves. Profiles of the structure during the various stages of reshaping were measured using a semiautomatic profiler developed for this study. Four gradations of armour stones were used, giving a range in uniformity coefficient of 1.35–5.4. The volume of stones and the initial berm width required for the development of a stable profile, along with the extent to which the toe of the structure progressed seaward, were chosen as representative parameters of the reshaped breakwater. The results indicated that the toe width formed as a result of reshaping and the area of stones required for reshaping were dependent on the gradation of the armour stones. The initial berm width required for reshaping was also found to be dependent on the gradation and the percentage of rounded stones in the armour. Key words: breakwaters, dynamic stability, hydraulic models, stability, armour stones.

Computations of fully nonlinear three-dimensional wave–wave and wave–body interactions. Part 1. Dynamics of steep three-dimensional waves

2001 ◽  
Vol 438 ◽  
pp. 11-39 ◽  
Author(s):  
MING XUE ◽  
HONGBO XÜ ◽  
YUMING LIU ◽  
DICK K. P. YUE
Keyword(s):  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Wave Instability ◽  
Fully Nonlinear ◽  
Stokes Waves ◽  
Distinct Features ◽  
Wave Problems ◽  
Dimensional Wave

We develop an efficient high-order boundary-element method with the mixed-Eulerian–Lagrangian approach for the simulation of fully nonlinear three-dimensional wave–wave and wave–body interactions. For illustration, we apply this method to the study of two three-dimensional steep wave problems. (The application to wave–body interactions is addressed in an accompanying paper: Liu, Xue & Yue 2001.) In the first problem, we investigate the dynamics of three-dimensional overturning breaking waves. We obtain detailed kinematics and full quantification of three-dimensional effects upon wave plunging. Systematic simulations show that, compared to two-dimensional waves, three-dimensional waves generally break at higher surface elevations and greater maximum longitudinal accelerations, but with smaller tip velocities and less arched front faces. For the second problem, we study the generation mechanism of steep crescent waves. We show that the development of such waves is a result of three-dimensional (class II) Stokes wave instability. Starting with two-dimensional Stokes waves with small three-dimensional perturbations, we obtain direct simulations of the evolution of both L2 and L3 crescent waves. Our results compare quantitatively well with experimental measurements for all the distinct features and geometric properties of such waves.

scholarly journals Numerical and Experimental Analyses on Motion Responses on Heaving Point Absorbers Connected to Large Semi-Submersibles

Processes ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (8) ◽  
pp. 1363
Author(s):  
Kyong-Hwan Kim ◽  
Sewan Park ◽  
Jeong-Rok Kim ◽  
Il Hyoung Cho ◽  
Keyyong Hong
Keyword(s):  
Frequency Domain ◽  
Model Test ◽  
Ocean Basin ◽  
Eigenvalue Analysis ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Motion Response ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Motion Responses ◽  
Point Absorbers ◽  
Dimensional Wave

This study considers the motion responses of heaving point absorbers (HPAs) connected to large semi-submersibles. To analyze the motion responses for HPAs, a motion response amplitude operator (RAO) of a single HPA connected to a fixed wall was obtained in a two-dimensional wave flume. A frequency-domain eigenvalue analysis is used to evaluate the motion RAO of a single HPA, and the experimental and numerical results of motion RAO were compared. A model test was conducted to analyze the motions of multiple HPAs connected to a large semi-submersible in a 3D ocean basin. The motion RAOs of the multiple HPAs connected to the large semi-submersible were compared with the motion RAO of the single HPA connected to the fixed wall.

Diffraction of a pulse by a resistive half-plane. I. Normal incidence

1960 ◽  
Vol 255 (1283) ◽  
pp. 538-549 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Time Dependence ◽  
Half Plane ◽  
Wave Diffraction ◽  
Diffraction Problem ◽  
Normal Incidence ◽  
Step Function ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Dynamic Similarity ◽  
Function Time ◽  
Dimensional Wave

The two-dimensional wave diffraction problem, acoustic or electromagnetic, in which a pulse of step-function time dependence is diffracted by a resistive half-plane is solved by assuming dynamic similarity in the solution.

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