scholarly journals A software application to obtain the depth of closure from beach profile data

2017 ◽  
Vol 5 (5) ◽  
pp. 750-759 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.I. Pagán ◽  
Y. Villacampa ◽  
L. Aragonés ◽  
I. López
Keyword(s):  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Software Application

scholarly journals DESCRIPTION OF BEACH CHANGES USING AN EMPIRICAL PREDICTIVE MODEL OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 86 ◽  
Author(s):  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Hiroshi Hashimoto
Keyword(s):  
Predictive Model ◽  
Sand Transport ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Longshore Transport ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
Offshore Transport ◽  
Eigenfunction Method ◽  
Profile Change

In order to analyze beach profile changes due to longshore and onshore-offshore sand transport, here is proposed a new model named the "empirical predictive model of beach profile change", which is an application of the empirical eigenfunction method. The analysis of the profile data obtained at the Misawa fishery port in Ogawarako Coast over five years from 1973 to 1977 indicates that profile changes due to longshore transport and to onshore-offshore transport can be separated. The model is shown to be effective in the analysis of profile changes near coastal structures.

scholarly journals INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE CHANGE ON BEACH PROFILE

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 17
Author(s):  
Kentaro Hayashi ◽  
Nobuhito Mori ◽  
Hajime Mase ◽  
Yoshiaki Kuriyama ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi
Keyword(s):  
Climate Change ◽  
Wave Parameter ◽  
Characteristic Change ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Equilibrium Beach Profile ◽  
The Relationship ◽  
Profile Change

The influences of climate change due to global warming have been estimated on not only sea level rise but also wave characteristics such as height or energy flux. In this study, the characteristics of medium and long term beach profile change is investigated based on the observed beach profile data at HORS for past 24 years and the relationship between the wave characteristics observed at Kashima port and the climate indexes. In order to estimate the influences of the medium and long term wave characteristic change, a theory is introduced based on equilibrium beach profile with wave parameter, which is theoretically based on sediment characteristic. Moreover, the validation of the theory is evaluated based on the observed beach profile data and wave data.

Maximising the Use of Disparate Beach Profile Data

2020 ◽  
Vol 95 (sp1) ◽  
pp. 621
Author(s):  
Tony Thomas ◽  
Michael Robert Phillips ◽  
Andrew Ronald Morgan
Keyword(s):  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data

scholarly journals TWO-DIMENSIONAL EMPIRICAL EIGENFUNCTION MODEL FOR THE ANALYSIS AND PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 87 ◽  
Author(s):  
T.W. Hsu ◽  
S.R. Liaw ◽  
S.K. Wang ◽  
S.H. Ou
Keyword(s):  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Relative Importance ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Radiation Stress ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Profile Changes ◽  
D Model ◽  
Profile Change

A two-dimensional empirical eigenfunction model is proposed for the analysis and the prediction of beach profile change due to longshore and cross-shore sediment transports. Beach profile data from Redhill coast, Taiwan, measured every two months at 150 meters interval along the detached breakwaters are analyzed and the relative importance from two directions is investigated. Furthermore, by employing the method of Markov process and linear regression, a prediction model is formulated which takes into account the effect of breaking waves, bottom sediment and radiation stress of waves. This 2-D model is shown to be effective in the analysis and the prediction of beach changes near the coastal structures.

scholarly journals STABILITY AND IMPULSE RESPONSE OF EMPIRICAL EIGENFUNCTIONS

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 76 ◽  
Author(s):  
Clinton D. Winant ◽  
David G. Aubrey
Keyword(s):  
Statistical Method ◽  
Impulse Response ◽  
Data Sets ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Storm Activity ◽  
Largest Eigenvalues

The statistical method of empirical eigenfunctions has been applied to four years of beach profile data. The eigenfunctions associated with the three largest eigenvalues are shown to be stable for data sets of one, two, three, and four years length, and they correctly describe beach changes caused by storm activity. The usefulness of the eigenfunction representation is confirmed as a concise means of representing beach profile variability.

Hawaii Beach Monitoring Program: Beach Profile Data

2001 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ann E. Gibbs ◽  
Bruce M. Richmond ◽  
Charles H. Fletcher ◽  
Kindra P. Hillman
Keyword(s):  
Monitoring Program ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data

Morphosedimentary and ecosystem evolution at Belharucas beach after a sand nourishment (Algarve, south Portugal)

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Teresa Drago ◽  
Sebastião Teixeira ◽  
Marcos Rosa ◽  
Miriam Tuaty-Guerra ◽  
Maria José Gaudêncio ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Grain Size ◽  
Beach Nourishment ◽  
Control Area ◽  
Morphological Data ◽  
Beach Profile ◽  
Profile Data ◽  
Integrity Assessment ◽  
Emergency Situations ◽  
Sand Nourishment ◽  
South Portugal

<p>Beach nourishment is an increasingly recommended solution for reversing the erosion process that affects nowadays the coastal zone. Usually, it is used in emergency situations as a local and short-term solution or as a regional and long-term management strategy.</p><p>From April 2017 to November 2019, sediment samples and beach profile data were collected seasonally, before and after a sand nourishment (100.000m<sup>3</sup>) that increased 30m of width in Belharucas beach (south Portugal, Algarve).</p><p>The main objective of the work was to evaluate the nourishment impact in the beach ecosystem, aiming at contributing to seafloor integrity assessment, in the scope of Descriptor 6 of the Marine Strategy Framework Directive. </p><p>Methodology included grain size and macrobenthic fauna analyses in two profiles of the nourished area and another one further away, selected as a control area. Each profile was sampled at three intertidal zones: supralittoral (beach berm), mediolittoral (beach face) and infralittoral (low tide terrace).  Beach profile data were collected with the main objective of measuring the beach width and evaluate nourishment longevity.</p><p>Results show that grain size variability, higher at beach face, is dominated by local energy beach conditions rather than to changes related to the nourishment.</p><p>Morphological data shows that beach nourishment had a relatively low longevity as two years after the nourished beach present roughly the same width as priori to nourishment.</p><p>While supralittoral samples were defaunated, medio and infralittoral ones exhibited extremely low diversity. Assemblages were dominated by small-size polychaetes, bivalves and isopods. No statistically significant differences were found in assemblage composition regarding pre- and post-sand nourishment, year seasons, tidal zones and control stations.</p><p>In conclusion, Belharucas beach exhibited high resilience to the sand nourishment, preserving its morphodynamics and ecosystem conditions.</p><p> </p><p>The authors would like to acknowledge the financial support FCT through project UIDB/50019/2020 – IDL and through the strategic project UIDB/MAR/04292/2019 - MARE and ECOEXA project (MAR-01.04.02-FEAMP-0016)</p>

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