scholarly journals GEOLOGICAL CONTROLS ON PROCESS-RESPONSE, S.E. AUSTRALIA

1980 ◽  
Vol 1 (17) ◽  
pp. 56
Author(s):  
P.S. Roy ◽  
A.W. Stephens
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Characteristics ◽  
Coastal Evolution ◽  
Sediment Budgets ◽  
The Past ◽  
Nearshore Sediments ◽  
Induced Currents ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Incident Waves ◽  
Inner Continental Shelf ◽  
Incident Wave Energy

Results of regional geological studies on the southeastern Australian coast and inner continental shelf suggest that broad relationships between nearshore sediments and morphologies are often the result of factors other than incident waves and wave-induced currents. Five main factors (including wave action) have been identified: 1. degree of compartmentization and sand bypassing, 2. incident wave energy, 3. offshore sand loss to deep water sinks, 4. inherited sediment characteristics, and 5. substrate control. It is thought that these factors have controlled coastal evolution in the past and also influence present-day coastal changes. Identification of the role played by individual factors in specific areas provides valuable information on coastal sediment budgets.

scholarly journals Numerical simulation of the three-dimensional wave-induced currents on unstructured grid

2017 ◽  
Vol 31 (5) ◽  
pp. 539-548
Author(s):  
Ping Wang ◽  
Ning-chuan Zhang ◽  
Shuai Yuan ◽  
Wei-bin Chen
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Simulation ◽  
Unstructured Grid ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Induced Currents ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Dimensional Wave

Resonant reflection of surface water waves by periodic sandbars

1985 ◽  
Vol 152 ◽  
pp. 315-335 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chiang C. Mei
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Resonance Condition ◽  
Nonlinear Effects ◽  
Sea Bottom ◽  
Strong Reflection ◽  
Weak Reflection ◽  
Surface Water Waves ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Incident Waves ◽  
Resonant Reflection

One of the possible mechanisms of forming offshore sandbars parallel to a coast is the wave-induced mass transport in the boundary layer near the sea bottom. For this mechanism to be effective, sufficient reflection must be present so that the waves are partially standing. The main part of this paper is to explain a theory that strong reflection can be induced by the sandbars themselves, once the so-called Bragg resonance condition is met. For constant mean depth and simple harmonic waves this resonance has been studied by Davies (1982), whose theory, is however, limited to weak reflection and fails at resonance. Comparison of the strong reflection theory with Heathershaw's (1982) experiments is made. Furthermore, if the incident waves are slightly detuned or slowly modulated in time, the scattering process is found to depend critically on whether the modulational frequency lies above or below a threshold frequency. The effects of mean beach slope are also studied. In addition, it is found for periodically modulated wave groups that nonlinear effects can radiate long waves over the bars far beyond the reach of the short waves themselves. Finally it is argued that the breakpoint bar of ordinary size formed by plunging breakers can provide enough reflection to initiate the first few bars, thereby setting the stage for resonant reflection for more bars.

scholarly journals Coastal Evolution Over the Past 3000 Years at Conrads Beach, Nova Scotia: the Influence of Local Sediment Supply on a Paraglacial Transgressive System

2015 ◽  
Vol 39 (2) ◽  
pp. 363-384 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tanya C. Forde ◽  
Mladen R. Nedimović ◽  
Martin R. Gibling ◽  
Donald L. Forbes
Keyword(s):  
Nova Scotia ◽  
Sediment Supply ◽  
Coastal Evolution ◽  
The Past

scholarly journals Predictive model for wave-induced currents and 3D beach evolution based on FAVOR Method

2010 ◽  
Vol 2 (2) ◽  
pp. 68-74
Author(s):  
Masamitsu Kuroiwa ◽  
Mazen Abualtayef ◽  
Tetsushi Takada ◽  
Ahmed Khaled Sief ◽  
Yuehi Matsubara
Keyword(s):  
Predictive Model ◽  
Induced Currents ◽  
Wave Induced

Sediment Resuspension and Transport by Internal Solitary Waves

2019 ◽  
Vol 51 (1) ◽  
pp. 129-154 ◽  
Author(s):  
Leon Boegman ◽  
Marek Stastna
Keyword(s):  
Internal Waves ◽  
Laboratory Experiments ◽  
Sediment Resuspension ◽  
Vital Role ◽  
Continental Margins ◽  
Scale Models ◽  
Key Driver ◽  
Induced Currents ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Oriented Research

Large-amplitude internal waves induce currents and turbulence in the bottom boundary layer (BBL) and are thus a key driver of sediment movement on the continental margins. Observations of internal wave–induced sediment resuspension and transport cover significant portions of the world's oceans. Research on BBL instabilities, induced by internal waves, has identified several mechanisms by which the BBL is energized and sediment may be resuspended. Due to the complexity of the induced currents, process-oriented research using theory, direct numerical simulations, and laboratory experiments has played a vital role. However, experiments and simulations have inherent limitations as analogs for oceanic conditions due to disparities in Reynolds number and grid resolution, respectively. Parameterizations are needed for modeling resuspension from observed data and in larger-scale models, with the efficacy of parameterizations based on the quadratic stress largely determining the accuracy of present field-scale efforts.

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