scholarly journals Breaking waves in deep water: measurements and modeling of energy dissipation

2019 ◽  
Vol 69 (10) ◽  
pp. 1165-1179
Author(s):  
Fadia Ticona Rollano ◽  
Adam Brown ◽  
Ashley Ellenson ◽  
H. Tuba Özkan-Haller ◽  
Jim Thomson ◽  
...  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (1) ◽  
pp. 76
Author(s):  
Duoc Nguyen ◽  
Niels Jacobsen ◽  
Dano Roelvink

This study aims at developing a new set of equations of mean motion in the presence of surface waves, which is practically applicable from deep water to the coastal zone, estuaries, and outflow areas. The generalized Lagrangian mean (GLM) method is employed to derive a set of quasi-Eulerian mean three-dimensional equations of motion, where effects of the waves are included through source terms. The obtained equations are expressed to the second-order of wave amplitude. Whereas the classical Eulerian-mean equations of motion are only applicable below the wave trough, the new equations are valid until the mean water surface even in the presence of finite-amplitude surface waves. A two-dimensional numerical model (2DV model) is developed to validate the new set of equations of motion. The 2DV model passes the test of steady monochromatic waves propagating over a slope without dissipation (adiabatic condition). This is a primary test for equations of mean motion with a known analytical solution. In addition to this, experimental data for the interaction between random waves and a mean current in both non-breaking and breaking waves are employed to validate the 2DV model. As shown by this successful implementation and validation, the implementation of these equations in any 3D model code is straightforward and may be expected to provide consistent results from deep water to the surf zone, under both weak and strong ambient currents.


2012 ◽  
Vol 30 (5) ◽  
pp. 822-825 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shuwen Zhang ◽  
Ruixue Cao ◽  
Lingling Xie

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ting Cui ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Lihao Yuan ◽  
Duanfeng Han ◽  
...  

Abstract The correct estimation of wave loading on a cylinder in a cylinder group under different impact scenarios is essential to determine the structural safety of coastal and offshore structures. This scenario differs from the interaction of waves with a single cylinder but not a lot of studies focus on cylinder groups under different arrangements. In this study, the interaction between plunging breaking waves and cylinder groups in deep water is investigated using the two-phase flow model in REEF3D, an open-source computational fluid dynamics program. The Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equation with the two equation k–Ω turbulence model is adopted to resolve the numerical wave tank, with free surface calculated using the level set method. In this study, focused waves in deep water were modeled with a fixed wave steepness method. Wave breaking occurs when the steepness of the wave crest front satisfies the breaking criteria. The model is validated by comparing the numerical wave forces and free surface elevation with measurements from experiments. The computational results show fairly good agreement with experimental data for both free surface elevation and wave forces. Four cases are simulated to investigate the interaction of breaking waves with a cylinder group with different relative distance, number of cylinders and arrangement. Results show that breaking wave forces on the upstream cylinder are smaller than on a single cylinder with a relative distance of one cylinder diameter. The wave forces on cylinders in the pile group are effected by the relative distance between cylinders. The staggered arrangement has a significant influence on the wave forces on the first and second cylinder. The interaction inside a cylinder group mostly happens between the neighbouring cylinders. These interactions are also effected by the relative distance and the numbers of the neighbouring cylinders.


2015 ◽  
Vol 120 (3) ◽  
pp. 2007-2049 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ho-Joon Lim ◽  
Kuang-An Chang ◽  
Zhi-Cheng Huang ◽  
Byoungjoon Na

1996 ◽  
Vol 26 (5) ◽  
pp. 792-807 ◽  
Author(s):  
E.A. Terray ◽  
M.A. Donelan ◽  
Y.C. Agrawal ◽  
W.M. Drennan ◽  
K.K. Kahma ◽  
...  

2018 ◽  
Vol 48 (12) ◽  
pp. 2937-2948 ◽  
Author(s):  
David W. Wang ◽  
Hemantha W. Wijesekera

AbstractIt has been recognized that modulated wave groups trigger wave breaking and generate energy dissipation events on the ocean surface. Quantitative examination of wave-breaking events and associated turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rates within a modulated wave group in the open ocean is not a trivial task. To address this challenging topic, a set of laboratory experiments was carried out in an outdoor facility, the Oil and Hazardous Material Simulated Environment Test Tank (203 m long, 20 m wide, 3.5 m deep). TKE dissipation rates at multiple depths were estimated directly while moving the sensor platform at a speed of about 0.53 m s−1 toward incoming wave groups generated by the wave maker. The largest TKE dissipation rates and significant whitecaps were found at or near the center of wave groups where steepening waves approached the geometric limit of waves. The TKE dissipation rate was O(10−2) W kg−1 during wave breaking, which is two to three orders of magnitude larger than before and after wave breaking. The enhanced TKE dissipation rate was limited to a layer of half the wave height in depth. Observations indicate that the impact of wave breaking was not significant at depths deeper than one wave height from the surface. The TKE dissipation rate of breaking waves within wave groups can be parameterized by local wave phase speed with a proportionality breaking strength coefficient dependent on local steepness. The characterization of energy dissipation in wave groups from local wave properties will enable a better determination of near-surface TKE dissipation of breaking waves.


Sensors ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 20 (22) ◽  
pp. 6540
Author(s):  
Rafael D. Viana ◽  
João A. Lorenzzetti ◽  
Jonas T. Carvalho ◽  
Ferdinando Nunziata

The total energy dissipation rate on the ocean surface, ϵt (W m−2), provides a first-order estimation of the kinetic energy input rate at the ocean–atmosphere interface. Studies on the spatial and temporal distribution of the energy dissipation rate are important for the improvement of climate and wave models. Traditional oceanographic research normally uses remote measurements (airborne and platforms sensors) and in situ data acquisition to estimate ϵt; however, those methods cover small areas over time and are difficult to reproduce especially in the open oceans. Satellite remote sensing has proven the potential to estimate some parameters related to breaking waves on a synoptic scale, including the energy dissipation rate. In this paper, we use polarimetric Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) data to estimate ϵt under different wind and sea conditions. The used methodology consisted of decomposing the backscatter SAR return in terms of two contributions: a polarized contribution, associated with the fast response of the local wind (Bragg backscattering), and a non-polarized (NP) contribution, associated with wave breaking (Non-Bragg backscattering). Wind and wave parameters were estimated from the NP contribution and used to calculate ϵt from a parametric model dependent of these parameters. The results were analyzed using wave model outputs (WAVEWATCH III) and previous measurements documented in the literature. For the prevailing wind seas conditions, the ϵt estimated from pol-SAR data showed good agreement with dissipation associated with breaking waves when compared to numerical simulations. Under prevailing swell conditions, the total energy dissipation rate was higher than expected. The methodology adopted proved to be satisfactory to estimate the total energy dissipation rate for light to moderate wind conditions (winds below 10 m s−1), an environmental condition for which the current SAR polarimetric methods do not estimate ϵt properly.


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