Numerical verification of a two-layer Boussinesq-type model for surface gravity wave evolution

Wave Motion ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 85 ◽  
pp. 98-113 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhongbo Liu ◽  
Kezhao Fang
JETP Letters ◽  
2013 ◽  
Vol 97 (8) ◽  
pp. 459-465 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Bedard ◽  
S. Lukaschuk ◽  
S. Nazarenko

2019 ◽  
Vol 173 ◽  
pp. 43-55 ◽  
Author(s):  
Juan F. Paniagua-Arroyave ◽  
Peter N. Adams ◽  
Sabrina M. Parra ◽  
Arnoldo Valle-Levinson

2017 ◽  
Vol 835 ◽  
pp. 131-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. L. McAllister ◽  
T. A. A. Adcock ◽  
P. H. Taylor ◽  
T. S. van den Bremer

For sufficiently directionally spread surface gravity wave groups, the set-down of the wave-averaged free surface, first described by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (J. Fluid Mech. vol. 13, 1962, pp. 481–504), can turn into a set-up. Using a multiple-scale expansion for two crossing wave groups, we examine the structure and magnitude of this wave-averaged set-up, which is part of a crossing wave pattern that behaves as a modulated partial standing wave: in space, it consists of a rapidly varying standing-wave pattern slowly modulated by the product of the envelopes of the two groups; in time, it grows and decays on the slow time scale associated with the translation of the groups. Whether this crossing wave pattern actually enhances the surface elevation at the point of focus depends on the phases of the linear wave groups, unlike the set-down, which is always negative and inherits the spatial structure of the underlying envelope(s). We present detailed laboratory measurements of the wave-averaged free surface, examining both single wave groups, varying the degree of spreading from small to very large, and the interaction between two wave groups, varying both the degree of spreading and the crossing angle between the groups. In both cases, we find good agreement between the experiments, our simple expressions for the set-down and set-up, and existing second-order theory based on the component-by-component interaction of individual waves with different frequencies and directions. We predict and observe a set-up for wave groups with a Gaussian angular amplitude distribution with standard deviations of above $30{-}40^{\circ }$ ($21{-}28^{\circ }$ for energy spectra), which is relatively large for realistic sea states, and for crossing sea states with angles of separation of $50{-}70^{\circ }$ and above, which are known to occur in the ocean.


Author(s):  
Delphine Hypolite ◽  
Leonel Romero ◽  
James C. McWilliams ◽  
Daniel P. Dauhajre

AbstractA set of realistic coastal simulations in California allows for the exploration of surface gravity wave effects on currents (WEC) in an active submesoscale current regime. We use a new method that takes into account the full surface gravity wave spectrum and produces larger Stokes drift than the monochromatic peak-wave approximation. We investigate two high wave events lasting several days — one from a remotely generated swell and another associated with local wind-generated waves — and perform a systematic comparison between solutions with and without WEC at two submesoscale-resolving horizontal grid resolutions (dx = 270 m and 100 m). WEC results in the enhancement of open-ocean surface density and velocity gradients when the averaged significant wave height HS is relatively large (> 4.2m). For smaller waves, WEC is a minor effect overall. For the remote swell (strong waves and weak winds), WEC maintains submesoscale structures and accentuates the cyclonic vorticity and horizontal convergence skewness of submesoscale fronts and filaments. The vertical enstrophy ζ2 budget in cyclonic regions (ζ/f > 2) reveals enhanced vertical shear and enstrophy production via vortex tilting and stretching. Wind-forced waves also enhance surface gradients, up to the point where they generate a small-submesoscale roll-cell pattern with high vorticity and divergence that extends vertically through the entire mixed layer. The emergence of these roll-cells results in a buoyancy gradient sink near the surface that causes a modest reduction in the typically large submesoscale density gradients.


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