scholarly journals SEPARATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES BY AN ANALYTICAL METHOD

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 64
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Mechanics ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Present Method ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
International Conference ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

A new method for separating low-frequency waves in time domain is proposed by constructing the analytical signals of the measured waves. Using three simultaneous wave records, the time series of incident bound, free and reflected low-frequency waves can be obtained by the present method. This method is only suitable for separating monochromatic low-frequency waves. The applicability of the method is examined by numerical tests. The results show that the present method can give accurate results over sloping beaches when water depth (kh) is larger than 0.2. Then, the present method is used to study an experiment of low-frequency waves over a mild slope beach. References Bakkenes, H.J. 2002. Observation and separation of bound and free low-frequency waves in the nearshore zone, in Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences. Delft University of Technology: Delft. Baldock, T.E., D.A., Huntley, P.A.D., Bird, T.O., Hare, and G.N., Bullock. 2000. Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups. Coastal Engineering. 30 (2-4): 213-242. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00061-7 Battjes, J.A., Bakkenes, H.J., Janssen, T.T., van Dongeren, A.R. 2004. Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res., 109(C2): C02009. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2003JC001863 Bowers, E.C. 1977. Harbour resonance due to set-down beneath wave groups. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 79: 71-92. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112077000044 Cohen, L. 1995. Time Frequency Analysis: Theory and Applications. Prentice Hall Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey. Dong, G.H., X.Z., Ma, M., Perlin, Y.X., Ma, B., Yu, and G., Wang. 2009. Experimental Study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms. Coastal Engineering, 56(1), 82-89. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.10.002 Kamphuis, J.W. 2000. Designing for low frequency waves. Proceedings of 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Sydney, Australian. 1434-1447. Kostense, J.K. 1984. Measurements of surf beat and set-down beneath wave groups. Proceedings of 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Houston, USA. 724-740. Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and R.W., Stewart. 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to 'surfbeat'. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 13: 481-504 http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112062000877 Mallat, S. 1999. A Wavelet Tour of Signal Processing. Academic Press. PMCid:407895 Nagai, T., N., Hashimoto, T., Asai, et al. 1994. Relationship of a moored vessel in a harbor and a long wave caused by wave groups. Proceedings of 17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. Kobe, Japan. 847-861. Schäffer, H.A. 1993. Second-orderwavemaker theory for irregularwaves.Ocean Engineering. 23 (1), 47–88. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(95)00013-B Symonds, G.D.A., D.A., Huntley, and A.J., Bowen. 1982. Two-dimensional surf beat-long-wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. Journal of Geophysical Research. 87(C1): 492-498. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492 Yu, J. and C.C., Mei. 2000. Formation of sand bars under surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 416: 315-348. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112000001063

scholarly journals Upstream Propagating Long-Wave Modes at a Microtidal River Mouth

2020 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 15
Author(s):  
Matteo Postacchini ◽  
Lorenzo Melito ◽  
Alex Sheremet ◽  
Joseph Calantoni ◽  
Giovanna Darvini ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Tide Gauge ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
River Mouth ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Tidal Forcing ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Low Frequency Waves ◽  
Wave Modes

We illustrate recent findings on the upriver propagation of long waves entering the mouth of the Misa River (Senigallia, Italy). Such a microtidal environment has been recently studied to understand river–sea interactions: it has been found that the river forcing dominates over the marine actions in winter, especially during storms. However, upriver wave propagation is not negligible with low-frequency waves propagating upriver for distances of the order of kilometers. With the aim to better understand the behavior of low-frequency waves propagating upriver, the analysis of the present work builds on field data collected by instruments installed close to the mouth and along the final reach of the Misa River: a tide gauge, two hydrometers and an acoustic Doppler sensor. It has been here observed that the tidal forcing (periods of the order of hours/days) is significantly strong at a distance of more than one kilometer from the river mouth, while shorter waves, like seiches (periods of some hours), are less important and are supposed to largely dissipate at the estuary, although their role could be of importance during relatively short events (e.g., floods).

scholarly journals WAVE GROUPINESS AS A SOURCE OF NEARSHORE LONG WAVES

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 38 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jeffrey H. List
Keyword(s):  
Wave Amplitude ◽  
Cross Correlation ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Progressive Wave ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Cross Correlation Analysis ◽  
Limited Usefulness

Data from a low energy swell-dominated surf zone are examined for indications that observed low frequency motions are simply group-forced bounded long waves. Time series of wave amplitude are compared to filtered long wave records through cross-spectral and cross-correlation analysis. These methods are found to have limited usefulness until long waves are separated into seaward and shoreward components. Then a clear picture of a rapidly shoaling bounded long wave emerges, with a minimum of nearly one fourth of the long wave amplitude being explainable by this type of motion close to shore. Through the zone in which waves were breaking, and incident wave amplitude variability decreased by 50%, the contribution from the bounded long wave continued to increase at a rate much greater than a simple shoaling effect. Also present are clear signs that this amplified bounded long wave is reflected from a position close to the shoreline, and is thus released from wave groups as a free, offshore-progressive wave.

Evaluation of an Extended Operational Boussinesq-Type Wave Model for Calculating Low-Frequency Waves in Intermediate Depths

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Martijn P. C. de Jong ◽  
Mart Borsboom ◽  
Jan A. M. de Bont ◽  
Bas van Vossen
Keyword(s):  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Extended Model ◽  
Depth Range ◽  
Frequency Range ◽  
Frequency Wave ◽  
Type Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

The motions of (LNG) vessels moored offshore at depths ranging from about 20 to 100 m may depend significantly on the presence of (bound) low-frequency waves with periods in the order of 100 s. This is because these moored vessels show a large motion response in this frequency range and because the energy contents of low-frequency waves at these ‘intermediate’ depths is relatively large. As part of the Joint Industry Project HawaI, the operational Boussinesq-type wave model of Deltares, TRITON, was used to investigate whether this type of wave models could predict bound low-frequency waves (setdown waves) at intermediate depths. Comparison to measured and theoretical data, however, showed an underestimation of the computed levels of bound low-frequency wave heights for this depth range by a factor 2 to 4. Recently, additional tests were made with TRITON in situations for which the model has been designed: coastal engineering applications in shallow water (depths up to at most 20 m). These also showed an underestimation of the bound low-frequency wave heights, albeit smaller, up to a factor 2. In view of the importance of the energy contained in the low-frequency range for certain nearshore and shoreline processes, such as morphological processes, this underestimation is also of concern in coastal engineering. This triggered the development of a higher-order extension of the TRITON model equations (Borsboom, 2008, Wellens, 2010), with the aim to improve the accuracy of the model for long waves while still keeping computational times within acceptable (operational) limits. This paper reports on the usefulness of the extended model for the field of application considered in JIP HawaI/II: providing wave data for calculating the motions of vessels moored in intermediate depths. The results show a significant improvement of the modeling of nonlinear wave dynamics, including the prediction of bound low-frequency waves. This means that the model extension is an important step towards an operational Boussinesq-type wave model with sufficient accuracy in both the wave-frequency (sea, swell) and the low-frequency range for applications in intermediate depths.

Generation of surf beat by non-linear wave interactions

1971 ◽  
Vol 49 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-20 ◽  
Author(s):  
Brent Gallagher
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Numerical Evaluation ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Transfer Energy ◽  
Wave Interactions ◽  
Frequency Spectra ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Linear Interactions ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

Non-linear interactions among wind-generated gravity waves transfer energy to low frequency waves in a coastal zone. A transfer function is derived for a straight coastline of constant bottom slope. This model is applied to three actual cases, and numerical evaluation of the energy transfer produces low frequency spectra which are compared with observations.

scholarly journals Simulation of Gravity Wave D-region disturbance and its effect on the LWPC simulated VLF signal

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Abdellatif Benchafaa ◽  
Samir Nait Amor ◽  
Ghazali Mebarki
Keyword(s):  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Electron Density ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Ionization Rate ◽  
Neutral Atmosphere ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Reflection Height ◽  
D Region ◽  
Atmosphere Density

Abstract. In this work we show the result of the numerical simulation of the gravity waves (GWs) D region disturbance. Effectively, using the Glukhov-Pasko-Inan (GPI) model of the electron density in the D region we were figured out the response of the electron density due to gravity wave neutral atmosphere oscillation. As a consequence to the D region disturbance, the electron density sometimes increases when the neutral atmosphere density decreases and vice versa. This behavior was interpreted by the decreases or increases of ionization rate by chemical loss process. In a second simulation work, we used the Long Wave Propagation Capability (LWPC) code to simulate the Very Low Frequency (VLF) signal when the gravity wave disturbance crossed the VLF path. The effect of the disturbance is to decrease the VLF signal reflection height below the ambient altitude (87 km) when the electron density increases. On the other hand and when the electron density drops, the VLF reflection altitude increased higher than 87 km.

scholarly journals LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS OF BICHROMATIC WAVE GROUPS PROPAGATION ON A GENTLE SLOPE BEACH PROFILE AND ENERGY TRANSFER TO LOW AND HIGH FREQUENCY COMPONENTS

2017 ◽  
pp. 6 ◽  
Author(s):  
Enrique M Padilla ◽  
Jose M Alsina
Keyword(s):  
High Frequency ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Primary Wave ◽  
Wave Group ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Hf Wave ◽  
Nonlinear Energy

This work presents a first analysis of experimental data studying the influence of the frequency bandwidth on the propagation of bichromatic wave groups over a constant 1:100 beach slope. The use of a large spatial cross-shore resolution and Bi-Spectral analysis techniques allows the identification of nonlinear energy transfers along the propagation of wave groups. During wave-group shoaling, nonlinear coupling between the primary wave frequencies results in a larger growth of superharmonics for narrow-banded wave conditions, increasing the skewness of the wave and leading to eventual instabilities and earlier high frequency (hf) wave breaking compared to the broad-banded wave condition. Regarding the growth of low frequency (lf) component, the data analysis has shown a larger growth of the incident bound long wave (IBLW) for broad-banded wave conditions. It is generally assumed that the transferred energy from the primary wave components to subharmonics does not affect the short wave energy budget. Here, the opposite is hypothesised, and a larger growth of the IBLW for broad-banded wave conditions is accompanied of a larger reduction of the primary wave components, a reduced growth of hf components and, consequently, a reduction in the growth of hf wave asymmetry during wave group shoaling. Conversely for narrow-banded wave conditions, a reduced IBLW growth is associated with a larger growth of hf wave asymmetry. After hf wave breaking, within the low frequency domain (lf), the IBLW decays slightly for narrow-banded conditions, consistent with a reduction in radiation stress forcing. This involves a nonlinear energy transfer from the wave group frequency back to hf components. The remaining lf energy, Outgoing Free Long Wave (OFLW), reflects back at the shoreline. However, for broad-banded wave conditions, strong dissipation and minimal reflection of lf components occurs close to the shoreline, which might be caused by lf wave breaking.

Response of MCS Low-Frequency Gravity Waves to Vertical Wind Shear and Nocturnal Thermodynamic Environments

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Faith P. Groff ◽  
Rebecca D. Adams-Selin ◽  
Russ S. Schumacher
Keyword(s):  
Heat Release ◽  
Gravity Wave ◽  
Gravity Waves ◽  
Wind Shear ◽  
Environmental Influence ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Vertical Wind Shear ◽  
Wave Generation ◽  
Vertical Wind ◽  
Latent Heat Release

AbstractThis study investigates the sensitivities of mesoscale convective system (MCS) low-frequency gravity waves to changes in the vertical wind and thermodynamic profile through idealized cloud model simulations, highlighting how internal MCS processes impact low-frequency gravity wave generation, propagation, and environmental influence. Spectral analysis is performed on the rates of latent heat release, updraft velocity, and deep-tropospheric descent ahead of the convection as a signal for vertical wavenumber n = 1 wave passage. Results show that perturbations in mid-level descent up to 100 km ahead of the MCS occur at the same frequency as n = 1 gravity wave generation prompted by fluctuations in latent heat release due to the cellular variations of the MCS updrafts. Within a nocturnal environment, the frequency of the cellularity of the updrafts increases, subsequently increasing the frequency of n = 1 wave generation. In an environment with low-level unidirectional shear, results indicate that n = 2 wave generation mechanisms and environmental influence are similar among the simulated daytime and nocturnal MCSs. When deep vertical wind shear is incorporated, many of the low-frequency waves are strong enough to support cloud development ahead of the MCS as well as sustain and support convection.

Influence of Offshore Reefs on Low-Frequency Waves During Harbor Resonance

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Junliang Gao ◽  
Chunyan Ji ◽  
Xiaojian Ma
Keyword(s):  
Low Frequency ◽  
Resonant Mode ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Long Waves ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Wave Groups ◽  
Frequency Wave ◽  
Wave Separation ◽  
The Given ◽  
Low Frequency Waves

In this paper, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq model is used to simulate the shoreward propagation of bichromatic wave groups over different fringing reef topographies and the subsequent low-frequency oscillations inside a harbor. Based on a low-frequency wave separation technique, the effects of the reef-face slope and the reef ridge on the bound and free long waves inside the harbor and their relative components under the condition of the lowest resonant mode are systematically investigated. For the given harbor, the given reef ridge and the range of the incident short wave amplitudes and the reef-face slopes studied in this paper, results show that the amplitude of the free long waves inside the harbor increases with the reefface slope, while the bound long waves inside the harbor is insensitive to the variation of the reef-face slope. The existence of the reef ridge can notably restrain the bound long waves inside the harbor when the incident short wave amplitudes are large, while it has little influence on the free long waves inside the harbor.

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