How does Coastal Gravel get Sorted under Stormy Longshore Transport?

Author(s):  
H. Eyal ◽  
Y. Enzel ◽  
E. Meiburg ◽  
B. Vowinckel ◽  
N. G. Lensky
Keyword(s):  
2007 ◽  
Vol 60 (1) ◽  
pp. 31-47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Brian Greenwood ◽  
Allana Permanand-Schwartz ◽  
Christopher A. Houser

Abstract Burley Beach (southeastern Lake Huron) exhibits a multi-barred shoreface, the long-term equilibrium morphology characteristic of many low angle, sandy beaches in the Canadian Great Lakes. During a single major storm, a new bar emerged 50-60 m offshore as an irregular trough-crest form, through differential erosion of an existing shore terrace. Emergence, bar growth and offshore migration were associated with: (a) an overall negative sediment balance in the inner surf zone initially (‑2.30 m3>/m beach width), but with a large positive sediment balance (+5.10 m3/m) subsequent to the storm peak and during the storm decay; (b) progradation of the beach step to produce a new shore terrace; and (c) offshore migration of the two outer bars to provide the accommodation space necessary for the new bar. The primary transport mechanisms accounting for emergence of the new bar, its growth and migration were: (a) the mean cross-shore currents (undertow), which always transported suspended sediment offshore; and (b) the onshore transport of suspended sediment by incident gravity wave frequencies early in the storm and subsequently by infragravity waves (at the storm peak and the decay period). The longshore transport of sediment was significant in terms of the gross transport, although the net result was only a small transport to the south-west (historic littoral transport direction). It did not cause bar initiation, but it may have supplied some of the sediment for bar growth. The primary mechanism for bar initiation and growth was the cross-shore displacement of sediment by wave-driven (oscillatory) transport and cross-shore mean currents (undertow).


2015 ◽  
Vol 104 ◽  
pp. 69-75 ◽  
Author(s):  
Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio ◽  
Felice D'Alessandro ◽  
Giuseppe Barbaro ◽  
Elena Musci ◽  
Teresa M. De Giosa

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard O. Bruno ◽  
Christopher G. Gable

Analysis of longshore transport at a littoral barrier is presented. Channel Islands Harbor, California was selected as the study site because its offshore breakwater and jetties form a unique complete littoral barrier. Through repetitive surveys an accurate determination of longshore material transport in one direction was made. Measured transport rates ranged from 160,000 to 1,284,000 cubic meters per year. Utilizing visual observations of surf parameters, estimates of longshore wave thrust were computed. The range of wave thrust was 145 to 1,988 Newtons per meter. Comparison of the relation of wave thrust and longshore sediment transport is made. This study indicates that in an environment of high transport, nearly twice as much transport is predicted tinder corresponding wave thrust as that of the data summarized in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual.


1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 85
Author(s):  
Cyril Galvin ◽  
Charles J. Rooney ◽  
Gilbert K. Nersesian

Prior to construction at Fire Island Inlet, Fire Island was moving westward at more than 200 feet per year, the north shore of the inlet was eroding severely, and navigation in the inlet was difficult. The Federal Jetty, completed in 1941, and the sand dike, built in 1959, have halted the westward migration, eliminated the severe erosion, and partially improved navigation, with minimal maintenance or repair to the structures. There has been a large net accretion of sand east of the jetty and west of the dike, an unknown part of which is at the expense of shores to the west of the inlet. At the State Park on the south side of the inlet interior, erosion accelerated, probably because of the dike. The middle and ocean segments of the 4750-foot Federal Jetty are now (1987) in good condition, although the design implies a stability coefficient for the quarrystone jetty head at time of construction that would now be considered risky. Stability has been promoted by a stone blanket under and east of the jetty, a thick stone apron seaward of the jetty, a low (8 feet MLW) crest, and armor stone that has been partially keyed in place. Damage due to scour, common at other single-jetty inlets, is absent here because longshore transport, which easily overtops the low crest, keeps the inlet channel away from the jetty. Although the two seaward segments of the jetty remain in good condition, the inshore segment of the jetty is in poor condition, despite its apparently sheltered location. The cumulative effects of waves, possibly channeled to the site along recurved spits during storms, have damaged 1200 feet, and tidal scour has destroyed about 230 feet. The damaged segment has a design cross section which is onefifth and one-twelfth the cross sections of the jetty trunk and head.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 22
Author(s):  
Giuseppe Barbaro ◽  
Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice D'Alessandro

The present paper deals with the determination of longshore sediment transport rate. Specifically, case study of Saline Joniche (Reggio Calabria, Italy, is discussed. This case is of interest because, in this location, an artificial basin was built in the 70’s. After few years, port entrance experienced total obstruction by sand. Actually, the area is abandoned and several projects have been proposed for revitalising port activities. This paper discusses a method for estimating the longshore sediment transport rate at Saline Joniche and complements previous methodology.


2016 ◽  
Vol 142 (2) ◽  
pp. 04015017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sandra Fernández-Fernández ◽  
Paulo Baptista ◽  
Virgínia A. Martins ◽  
Paulo A. Silva ◽  
Tiago Abreu ◽  
...  

Author(s):  
PING WANG

The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, naturally or  anthropogenically, beach accretion occurs along the updrift shoreline coupled with erosion at the downdrift side. Natural interruption of longshore transport can be caused by tidal inlets, protruding headland, shoreline orientation change, and nearshore bathymetry variations. Anthropogenic interruption of the longshore transport along the northern Colombia coast is mainly caused by the construction of groins, as well as harbors at some locations. Numerous groins were constructed due to their local success in creating beach accretion at the drift side. However, severe beach erosion occurs along the downdrift shoreline. Shoreline protection along the northern Colombia coast, and coasts in the tropical area in general, should carefully consider the persistent unidirectional longshore sand transport and should not be misguided by the local updrift accumulation as being a successful project.


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