BEACH PROCESSES AND SHORE PROTECTION ALONG THE NORTHERN COLOMBIA COAST

Author(s):  
PING WANG

The shoreline of northern Colombia is located in the tropical zone along the south coast of Caribbean Sea. Its coastal processes are strongly influenced by the northeast trade wind, which results in the dominating northeasterly approaching wave occurring over 95% of the time. This drives a persistent southwestward longshore sand transport. The state of the beach along the generally northeast-southwest trending northern Colombia coast is strongly influenced by this constant unidirectional longshore sediment transport. At locations where this westward longshore sand transport is interrupted, naturally or  anthropogenically, beach accretion occurs along the updrift shoreline coupled with erosion at the downdrift side. Natural interruption of longshore transport can be caused by tidal inlets, protruding headland, shoreline orientation change, and nearshore bathymetry variations. Anthropogenic interruption of the longshore transport along the northern Colombia coast is mainly caused by the construction of groins, as well as harbors at some locations. Numerous groins were constructed due to their local success in creating beach accretion at the drift side. However, severe beach erosion occurs along the downdrift shoreline. Shoreline protection along the northern Colombia coast, and coasts in the tropical area in general, should carefully consider the persistent unidirectional longshore sand transport and should not be misguided by the local updrift accumulation as being a successful project.

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 70 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard O. Bruno ◽  
Christopher G. Gable

Analysis of longshore transport at a littoral barrier is presented. Channel Islands Harbor, California was selected as the study site because its offshore breakwater and jetties form a unique complete littoral barrier. Through repetitive surveys an accurate determination of longshore material transport in one direction was made. Measured transport rates ranged from 160,000 to 1,284,000 cubic meters per year. Utilizing visual observations of surf parameters, estimates of longshore wave thrust were computed. The range of wave thrust was 145 to 1,988 Newtons per meter. Comparison of the relation of wave thrust and longshore sediment transport is made. This study indicates that in an environment of high transport, nearly twice as much transport is predicted tinder corresponding wave thrust as that of the data summarized in the Coastal Engineering Research Center's Shore Protection Manual.


Author(s):  
Shinji Sato ◽  
Keisuke Murakami ◽  
Kunihiro Watanabe ◽  
Yuuichi Okamura ◽  
Shin Hashimoto ◽  
...  

Miyazaki Coast is a 10 km stretch sandy beach between the Miyazaki Port and the Hitotsuse River, located south of Japan facing the Pacific Ocean. Significant beach erosion has been observed owing to the entrapment of sand in the harbor area and the blockage of longshore sand transport by the river mouth jetties. Sato et al. (ICCE 2010) estimated that the direction of the long-term longshore sand transport is to the southward on the basis of thermo-luminescence measurement of beach sediments. Continuous bathymetry surveys indicated the southward longshore sand transport rate at 200 thousand m3/year. However, a large variability of the incident wave direction suggested the variability in the direction of the longshore transport. Occasional attacks of typhoon storms appeared to accelerate the erosion. As a countermeasure to mitigate the erosion, sand nourishment has been introduced since 2008 with the amount of 50 to 80 thousand m3/year. Three groins were constructed to decrease the longshore transport. However, further erosion has been observed by typhoon storms even on the nourished area. This paper describes the results of on-site monitoring of waves, currents and topography change to understand the role of typhoon storms in beach erosion and to investigate the performance of eco-system based erosion control works.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kideok Do ◽  
Nobuhisa Kobayashi ◽  
Kyung-Duck Suh

The performance of a large nourishment project on Bethany Beach, Delaware is evaluated using available beach profile, wave and tide data during September 2007 to September 2010. The volume of the placed sand with the median diameter of 0.31 mm was about 500 m3/m along the curved shoreline of 1.8 km length. The nourished beach was attacked by two severe storms in May 2008 and November 2009. The eroded sand volume above the mean sea level (MSL) was about 70 m3/m for each of the two storms and emergency repairs were necessary. The numerical cross-shore model with multiple cross-shore lines is used to compute the cross-shore and longshore sediment transport. The beach erosion above MSL is shown to be caused by the offshore sand transport and the alongshore gradient of the longshore sand transport rate. The performance of the nourished beach is predicted to be sensitive to the sand diameter in the range of 0.23 to 0.45 mm.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 22
Author(s):  
Giuseppe Barbaro ◽  
Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice D'Alessandro

The present paper deals with the determination of longshore sediment transport rate. Specifically, case study of Saline Joniche (Reggio Calabria, Italy, is discussed. This case is of interest because, in this location, an artificial basin was built in the 70’s. After few years, port entrance experienced total obstruction by sand. Actually, the area is abandoned and several projects have been proposed for revitalising port activities. This paper discusses a method for estimating the longshore sediment transport rate at Saline Joniche and complements previous methodology.


Water ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 1380 ◽  
Author(s):  
Giorgio Anfuso ◽  
Carlos Loureiro ◽  
Mohammed Taaouati ◽  
Thomas Smyth ◽  
Derek Jackson

In northern Europe, beach erosion, coastal flooding and associated damages to engineering structures are linked to mid-latitude storms that form through cyclogenesis and post-tropical cyclones, when a tropical cyclone moves north from its tropical origin. The present work analyses the hydrodynamic forcing and morphological changes observed at three beaches in the north coast of Northern Ireland (Magilligan, Portrush West’s southern and northern sectors, and Whiterocks), prior to, during, and immediately after post-tropical cyclone Katia. Katia was the second major hurricane of the active 2011 Atlantic hurricane season and impacted the British Isles on the 12–13 September 2011. During the Katia event, offshore wave buoys recorded values in excess of 5 m at the peak of the storm on the 13 September, but nearshore significant wave height ranged from 1 to 3 m, reflecting relevant wave energy dissipation across an extensive and shallow continental shelf. This was especially so at Magilligan, where widespread refraction and attenuation led to reduced shore-normal energy fluxes and very minor morphological changes. Morphological changes were restricted to upper beach erosion and flattening of the foreshore. Longshore transport was evident at Portrush West, with the northern sector experiencing erosion while the southern sector accreted, inducing a short-term rotational response in this embayment. In Whiterocks, berm erosion contributed to a general beach flattening and this resulted in an overall accretion due to sediment influx from the updrift western areas. Taking into account that the post-tropical cyclone Katia produced £100 m ($157 million, 2011 USD) in damage in the United Kingdom alone, the results of the present study represent a contribution to the general database of post-tropical storm response on Northern European coastlines, informing coastal response prediction and damage mitigation.


Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (11) ◽  
pp. 1647 ◽  
Author(s):  
Enzo Pranzini ◽  
Giorgio Anfuso ◽  
Irene Cinelli ◽  
Marco Piccardi ◽  
Giovanni Vitale

Analysis of a large shoreline database (from 1878 to 2017) and recompilation of information on type/age of shore protection structures along the Northern Tuscany, allowed a deep insight of the progressive armouring of this coastal sector. The area experienced beach erosion since the end of the 19th century due to reduced sediment inputs from rivers and harbour constructions. Shore protection structures started to develop at the beginning of the 20th century, first to protect settlements and coastal roads, later to maintain a beach for tourist activity. The changing of the goal and the increasing awareness of the negative impact of some structures resulted in an evolution of coastal defence projects: initially, seawalls and revetments, later detached breakwaters and, more recently, groins. Today, a reduction in hard structures is perceived by removing or lowering detached breakwaters and groins below mean sea level. The forcing function of the growing tourism industry is producing a demand for projects and their design is detailed in this paper: results will be of use in the correct design of a long-term, general, erosion management plan to restore the natural sediment circulation patterns.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 170 ◽  
Author(s):  
Osamu Toyoshima

Japan is a mountaineous country, and coastal areas have been looked upon quite valuable. In most cases, shorelines were slightly advancing until 1950, although there are some exceptional coasts which have been under continuous erosion for more than a thousand years. However, in the last thirty years, beaches began to be eroded one after another, and the countermeasure against beach erosion has become one of the most important problems in the national land preservation. Since the early 1960's, many seawalls against the beach erosion have been constructed. The table shows the amounts of the shore protection works constructed in the last twenty years.


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (8) ◽  
pp. 572
Author(s):  
Jung-Eun Oh ◽  
Yeon S. Chang ◽  
Weon Mu Jeong ◽  
Ki Hyun Kim ◽  
Kyong Ho Ryu

Video monitoring systems (VMS) have been used for beach status observation but are not effective for examining detailed beach processes as they only measure changes to the shoreline and backshore. Here, we extracted longshore sediment transport (LST) from VMS in order to investigate long- and short-term littoral processes on a pocket beach. LST estimated by applying one-line theory, wave power, and the oblique angle of incident waves were used to understand shoreline changes caused by severe winter storms. The estimated LST showed good agreement with the shoreline changes because the sediments were trapped at one end of the pocket beach and the alongshore direction of transported sediments was corresponded to the direction of LST. The results also showed that the beach that was severely eroded during storms was also rapidly recovered following the evolution of LST, which indicates that the LST may play a role in the recovery process while the erosion was mainly caused by the cross-shore transport due to storm waves. After the beach was nourished, beach changes became more active, even under lower wave energy conditions, owing to the equilibrium process. The analysis presented in this study could be applied to study inhomogeneous beach processes at other sites.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward Anthony ◽  
Antoine Gardel ◽  
Morgane Jolivet ◽  
Guillaume Brunier ◽  
Franck Dolique

<p><span>The 1500 km-long wave-exposed coast of the Guianas, South America, is characterized at any time by up to 20+ large distinct mud banks with suspended mud concentrations of up to 1000 g/l migrating from the Amazon delta to the Orinoco delta under the influence of wave-driven longshore transport. Banks can be up to 60 km-long, strongly dissipate waves, and are separated alongshore by ‘inter-bank’ sectors of similar length. The latter are affected by shoreward propagation of much less dissipated waves that can generate rapid muddy shoreline erosion and reworking of beaches and cheniers formed from sand supplied by rivers draining the crystalline rocks of the Guiana Shield.</span></p><p><span>About 500 km northwest of the mouths of the Amazon, the pervasive mud and its effects on the nearshore wave regime determine, for the embayed, headland-bound beaches in French Guiana, outcomes that are important  from a long-term management perspective. These beaches have come under urban pressures and assure recreational and ecological functions such as provision of nesting sites for marine turtles. The sand-mud interactions, processes of sand segregation from mud, sediment transport modes, and morphodynamics associated with these beaches over timescales ranging from weeks to several decades, were analyzed from aerial photographs, satellite images, aerial photogrammetry, and field experiments. The longer bay beaches are exposed to longshore transport when mud is temporarily scarce (inter-bank phases), and subject in parts to overwash. During inter-bank phases, ‘normal’ westward sand transport along these beaches is generated by waves from E to NE, but is counter-balanced during bank phases by eastward drift at the leading edge of a bank as waves are refracted over the bank. This counter-drift prevails at a ‘mobile’ rotation front that moves with the bank’s leading edge migrating at rates of 1 to 2.5 km a year. As the bank passes, it further shelters beaches from wave reworking, with eventual re-exposure to waves and ‘normal’ drift following complete mud-bank passage. In the context of the ‘closed’ sand budget of these beaches, headlands spatially constrain sand mobility, and the unique mode of rotation induced by mud-bank refraction of waves plays an important role by counter-balancing unidirectional longshore transport that could otherwise result in permanent deprivation of updrift beach sectors of sand. Due to variability in bank-migration rates and spacing, normal drift and counter-drift may prevail, respectively, over periods exceeding two years but of unknown duration. The variability of this time frame of rotation poses a challenge to the implementation of set-back lines necessary to avoid the impingement of urbanization and sea-front activities on the long-term (>decadal) bandwidth of beach affected by rotation, which involves aperiodic and variable erosion and accretion in different parts of the beach. In this context of aperiodic beach rotation, prediction of mud-bank migration rates downdrift of the Amazon and of the imminent arrival of a mud bank, coupled with the firm implementation of shoreline development setback lines, are necessary to mitigate risks from erosion and overwash events.    </span></p>


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