scholarly journals Wave driven Setup across the North Coast Region of West Java

2021 ◽  
Vol 925 (1) ◽  
pp. 012052
Author(s):  
J Risandi ◽  
W S Pranowo ◽  
A R T D Kuswardani ◽  
S Husrin ◽  
T Solihuddin ◽  
...  

Abstract Wave energy dissipation on the surf zone is compensated with the increase of mean sea level, the so-called wave setup, within the area. This study used the numerical model Delft3D to investigate the dynamics of setup across the north coast region of West Java (Losari to Indramayu) influenced by monsoon variations. The wave forcing was obtained from previous field studies on Cirebon coastal region. The waves within the region were largely dissipated far from the coastline, mainly at the area between Babakan and Karangampel, due to the gentle slope of the North coast of Java. The waves approaching the shoreline were mainly influenced by the east monsoon associated with the longer fetch from that direction. The wave setup varied from ~0.03 to 0.15 m, with the maximum setup occurred near the coastline of the east (Losari) and west (Indramayu) parts of the model domain that consisted of steeper slopes. This, potentially inducing severe coastal inundation that became a serious problem across the coastlines. Meanwhile, the setup near the coastline of the middle area of the domain (Babakan to Karangampel) was very weak, which was correlated to the larger wave dissipation within the offshore area of that region.

This paper describes an investigation of the height and length of ocean waves and swell in relation to the strength, extent and duration of the wind in the generating area, and the subsequent travel of the swell through calm and disturbed water. The investigation is based on records of waves made on the north coast of Cornwall, in the Irish Sea and in Lough Neagh. It is a practical continuation of the work of Barber & Ursell (1948), who showed that the waves leaving the generating area behave as a continuous spectrum of component wave trains which travel independently with the group velocities appropriate to their periods. The spectral distribution of energy in the storm area is considered, and the relative amplitudes of the different components are deduced empirically under various wind conditions. The results indicate that the wave characteristics become practically independent of fetch after 200 to 300 miles, and that in the equilibrium condition the steepness of the highest waves is inversely proportional to the square root of the wind speed. Some theoretical foundation can be found for the form of the empirical relationships if it is assumed that the wind acts on each wave component independently, and that the sheltering coefficient used by Jeffreys is proportional to the wave steepness. The results provide a basis for making reasonably accurate predictions of waves and swell from meteorological charts and forecasts.


2016 ◽  
Vol 31 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Flávia Charão MARQUES ◽  
Lidiane Fernandes Da LUZ ◽  
Rumi Regina KUBO

This paper presents an analysis of the social actors networking towards the feasibility of using native biodiversity for food production based on an empirical study conducted in South Brazil. Specifically, the North Coast Region has had a series of environmental problems resulting in conflicts on the use of resources. The search for solutions and public debate brought together farmers’ organizations, social movements, NGOs, government agencies, and academic groups. Recently, some of these actors established a common platform to raise food production based on native species of fruits giving rise to the ‘agrobiodiversity network’ in part by the activation of pre-existing networks but also requiring the entry of new players. On the other hand, forming agreements between different actors to consolidate the network has been difficult especially about the issue of rules that limit the access to native species and those that regulate food processing. The analysis has shown that the involved actors are amplifying the dialogues and collective learning processes thus building a common ground and shared beliefs.


2021 ◽  
Vol 925 (1) ◽  
pp. 012015
Author(s):  
T Solihuddin ◽  
S Husrin ◽  
E Mustikasari ◽  
A Heriati ◽  
T L Kepel ◽  
...  

Abstract The North Coasts of West Java are increasingly affected by human activities. The area has been utilized as settlement areas, industrial estates, and associated infrastructures including roads, school, hospital, market, etc. Consequently, this massive landuse and uncontrolled natural resources extraction have contributed to environmental degradation such as coastal erosion, accretion, pollution, inundation, and land subsidence. To date, we have so far very few field measurement data of land subsidence to support its importance. However, satellite image and on-ground observations used to determine spatio-temporal changes in the shoreline and area of inundation indicated the existence of land subsidence. Groundtruth data on selected areas also indicated the indicators of land subsidence such as damages of infrastructures including houses, roads, and sea dikes. The most noticeable shoreline changes in the North Coast of West Java are situated in Muara Gembong Bekasi and Legon Kulon Subang constituting maximum rates of shoreline retreat up to 200 and 150 m/year respectively for the last two decades (from 2000 to 2020). Whilst, the total areas of inundation in Muara Gembong and Legon Kulon based on recent satellite studies are 10.2 km2 and 7.4 km2 respectively. Coastal inundation might be linked to the combination of long-term behavior of oceanographic variables such as wave and sea level, in coincidence with hydrological changes due to river works (i.e. dam constructions and channellings) and an increase of settlement areas, fish ponds, groundwater extraction, etc. A set of preliminary engineering measures, in conjunction with sediment managing schemes, is proposed for the sustainable development of the coastal zone.


2016 ◽  
Vol 7 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Muhammad R. Hakim ◽  
Bisman Nababan ◽  
James P. Panjaitan

<p><em>A waveform created by the reflected signal from altimeter satellite in offshore is generally in ideal shape (Brown-waveform) and produces an accurate sea surface height (SSH) estimation. However, over coastal waters, the waveform shape becomes complex due to a disruption by reflected signal from land, resulting inaccurate SSH estimation. The objective of this research was to improve the accuracy of SSH estimation employing waveform retracking analyses of Jason-2 altimeter satellite data in the Java Sea during the years of 2012-2014. This study used data from the Sensor Geophysical Data Record type D (SGDR-D) from Jason-2 satellite (cycle 129 - 239) and global geoid undulation data of Earth Gravitational Model 2008 (EGM08). </em><em>Waveform retracking analyses were conducted using several retracker methods</em>. <em>The performance of the all retrackers were examined using a world reference undulation geoid of EGM08. The results showed that the waveform retracking analyses were able to improve the accuracy of SSH estimation approximately 29.7% in the north coast and 56.4% in the south coast of total non-Brown-waveform in each region. Higher improvement percentage (IMP) of SSH estimation found in the southern coastal areas was due to a relatively smooth coastline formation in this region than in northern coastal region. There was no specific retracker that produce dominant IMP of SSH estimation. However, the  threshold 10% retracker produced better SSH estimation than the other retrackers with dominant IMP values of 57.1% (pass 051), 48.1% (pass 064), and 25.7% (pass 127). OCOG retracker the worst retracker to estimate SSH in the Java Sea.                                                                                                               </em></p><p><strong><em>Keywords: </em></strong><em>EGM08, </em><em>waveform retracking, SSH, Jason-2, ocean retracker, threshold retracker</em></p>


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 47
Author(s):  
Noriyuki Iwata

Mass, momentum and wave action conservation laws, including the radiation stress, are used to obtain a rip current spacing as an eigenvalue. A coastal region is divided into two parts: offshore region and surf zone separated by a breaker line. Only the case of normal incidence of the waves is considered. From the matching conditions of the two horizontal velocity components at the breaker line, we can obtain rip current spacing as a function of a nondimensional parameter characterizing the surf zone, for an arbitrary value of a parameter indicating the strength of horizontal mixing.


2010 ◽  
Vol 11 (2) ◽  
pp. 245 ◽  
Author(s):  
H.I. ABDEL-SHAFY ◽  
A.A. EL-SAHARTY ◽  
M. REGELSBERGER ◽  
C. PLATZER

Egypt has limited water resources, and it will be under water stress within the year 2030. Therefore, Egypt should consider the natural and non-conventional water resources to overcome such problem. Rain harvesting is one solution; but not all; particularly on the north coast by the Mediterranean Sea and the Red sea. In this paper, the rainwater issue is reviewed and discussed in terms of the quantities and distribution at different selected areas in Egypt. The amount of rain falls at different location in Egypt was collected for a period of 16 months. The data indicated that rainfall in Egypt is very scarce, with an annual average of 12 mm and ranges from 0 mm/year in the desert to 200 mm/year in the north coastal region. The maximum total amount of rain does not exceed 1.8 billion m3per year. However, the average annual amount of rainfall water that is effectively utilized for agriculture purposes is estimated to be 1 billion m3. Harvesting pilot plant was constructed and implemented in Alexandria directly on the Mediterranean Sea. The harvested rain was used for irrigation and treated for drinking. It was, therefore, recommended to develop sustainable catchments at appropriate locations in the rain-fed areas at the north coast as well as cost effective grafting of the indigenous technologies with the innovative techniques.


1993 ◽  
Vol 4 (7) ◽  
pp. 83
Author(s):  
Susan Furber ◽  
Tim Sladden ◽  
Michael Levy ◽  
John Beard

Author(s):  
Muhammad R. Hakim ◽  
Bisman Nababan ◽  
James P. Panjaitan

A waveform created by the reflected signal from altimeter satellite in offshore is generally in ideal shape (Brown-waveform) and produces an accurate sea surface height (SSH) estimation. However, over coastal waters, the waveform shape becomes complex due to a disruption by reflected signal from land, resulting inaccurate SSH estimation. The objective of this research was to improve the accuracy of SSH estimation employing waveform retracking analyses of Jason-2 altimeter satellite data in the Java Sea during the years of 2012-2014. This study used data from the Sensor Geophysical Data Record type D (SGDR-D) from Jason-2 satellite (cycle 129 - 239) and global geoid undulation data of Earth Gravitational Model 2008 (EGM08). Waveform retracking analyses were conducted using several retracker methods. The performance of the all retrackers were examined using a world reference undulation geoid of EGM08. The results showed that the waveform retracking analyses were able to improve the accuracy of SSH estimation approximately 29.7% in the north coast and 56.4% in the south coast of total non-Brown-waveform in each region. Higher improvement percentage (IMP) of SSH estimation found in the southern coastal areas was due to a relatively smooth coastline formation in this region than in northern coastal region. There was no specific retracker that produce dominant IMP of SSH estimation. However, the  threshold 10% retracker produced better SSH estimation than the other retrackers with dominant IMP values of 57.1% (pass 051), 48.1% (pass 064), and 25.7% (pass 127). OCOG retracker the worst retracker to estimate SSH in the Java Sea.                                                                                                               Keywords: EGM08, waveform retracking, SSH, Jason-2, ocean retracker, threshold retracker


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