Modeling vertical coherence of wave breaking noise in shallow water and comparison with field measurements

Author(s):  
M C Sanjana ◽  
G Latha ◽  
Z Dincy E
2020 ◽  
Vol 120 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 319-336
Author(s):  
Xintao Li ◽  
Shoujun Huang ◽  
Weiping Yan

This paper studies the wave-breaking mechanism and dynamical behavior of solutions near the explicit self-similar singularity for the two component Camassa–Holm equations, which can be regarded as a model for shallow water dynamics and arising from the approximation of the Hamiltonian for Euler’s equation in the shallow water regime.


Author(s):  
Mohammadreza Javanmardi ◽  
M. Reza Alam

Tsunamis are a major threat to coastal communities. One of the ways to avoid tsunami disasters is to use breakwaters to attenuate the incident tsunami energy. The incident tsunami energy is expected to be dissipated by induced wave breaking in the shallow water over the structure peak. In this paper, a new method to attenuate the tsunami energy is described and investigated. This new concept dissipates tsunami energy by implementing small barriers into the water before the tsunami reaches the shore. The interaction of tsunami-like solitary waves with new submerged barriers has been investigated and their performance was compared with that of conventional breakwaters. We found that the new structure can be used as a tsunami wave attenuator.


2007 ◽  
Vol 37 (11) ◽  
pp. 2764-2775 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alexander V. Babanin ◽  
Michael L. Banner ◽  
Ian R. Young ◽  
Mark A. Donelan

Abstract This is the third in a series of papers describing wave-follower observations of the aerodynamic coupling between wind and waves on a large shallow lake during the Australian Shallow Water Experiment (AUSWEX). It focuses on the long-standing problem of the aerodynamic consequences of wave breaking on the wind–wave coupling. Direct field measurements are reported of the influence of wave breaking on the wave-induced pressure in the airflow over water waves, and hence the energy flux to the waves. The level of forcing, measured by the ratio of wind speed to the speed of the dominant (spectral peak) waves, covered the range of 3–7. The propagation speeds of the dominant waves were limited by the water depth and the waves were correspondingly steep. These measurements allowed an assessment of the magnitude of any breaking-induced enhancement operative for these field conditions and provided a basis for parameterizing the effect. Overall, appreciable levels of wave breaking occurred for the strong wind forcing conditions that prevailed during the observational period. Associated with these breaking wave events, a significant phase shift is observed in the local wave-coherent surface pressure. This produced an enhanced wave-coherent energy flux from the wind to the waves with a mean value of 2 times the corresponding energy flux to the nonbreaking waves. It is proposed that the breaking-induced enhancement of the wind input to the waves can be parameterized by the sum of the nonbreaking input and the contribution due to the breaking probability.


Author(s):  
George Z. Forrsitall

Construction of large and expensive facilities in relatively shallow water demands that additional effort be paid to the extreme environmental conditions expected there. A review of the literature on waves in shallow water shows that many processes must be considered there which are not important in deep water. Bottom friction under waves depends on the detailed bottom conditions and parameterizing it properly may require calibration to local measurements. The limits on wave heights over the nearly flat bottoms that are common in water depths of 10–30 m are poorly known. Additional laboratory and field measurements appear to be necessary before depth limited waves can be confidently specified. The structures often respond differently to wave from different directions, so directional criteria could be useful. Commonly used methods of specifying directional criteria are un-conservative, but it is possible to adjust them so that the overall reliability of the structure is preserved.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 198
Author(s):  
Wataru Nakano ◽  
Isao Yakuwa

Field measurements of the receding salt wedge were made at the mouth of the Ishikari River in October 1981. The gradually growing interfacial waves and the diffusion pattern of salinity are visualized by the Ultrasonic Method. The evolution mechanisms of waves are analysed in detail by calculating the power spectra of wave records. It is pointed out that the wave breaking, the wave-eddy interaction and the nonlinearity of waves are factors dominating the evolution. The nonlinear property of interfacial waves is studied further by watertank experiments.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 43
Author(s):  
Muhammad Zikra ◽  
Noriaki Hashimoto ◽  
Masaru Yamashiro ◽  
Masaki Yokota ◽  
Kojiro Suzuki

The video image analysis methods are used for monitoring the phenomena at the coastal zone. A digital video camera which is mounted in the HORS research building is used to estimate directional wave spectra and bathymetry in shallow water areas. The Bayesian Directional Method is used to estimate directional wave spectra using the group of pixels brightness and non-linear bathymetry inversion is used to estimate shallow water bathymetry using time series of pixel brightness intensity at cross-shore and longshore array. The results are compared with a numerical model and field measurements. The results indicate that video image data could be used to estimate bathymetry and directional wave spectra in shallow water areas.


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