Surficial sediments of the outer banks, Scotian Shelf, Canada

1988 ◽  
Vol 25 (12) ◽  
pp. 1923-1944 ◽  
Author(s):  
Carl Leonetto Amos ◽  
Odette C. Nadeau

The distribution, thickness, and mean grain size of surficial sediments on Sable Island Bank, Middle Bank, and Banquereau, Scotian Shelf, are used to re-evaluate interpretations made by others on mechanisms controlling long-term stability and net transport pathways of surface sand. A Holocene sand-ridge complex, the Sable Island Catena, extends 300 km across Sable Island Bank and Banquereau. This sand-ridge complex, which is up to 50 m thick, formed as a result of Holocene sediment transport on the outer banks and controls the modern-day distribution of bedforms and sediment size. A clockwise circulation of sand centred around Sable Island, which had been proposed as the mechanism maintaining the island, does not take place. Sand is transported from southwest to northeast across Sable Island Bank towards the Sable Island Catena; thereafter, sand is dispersed eastward. "Spillover" of sand from the banks to The Gully is not significant. Sand is trapped in depths less than 100 m. The processes proposed to have formed the Sable Island Catena are barotropic, storm-driven currents and associated sand transport and "fair-weather" dispersion of sand by strong, tidal flows or baroclinic currents, coupled with an abundant supply of sand-size sediment.

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 57 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shinji Sato ◽  
Shun Kishimoto ◽  
Haruna Hiramatsu

Long-term evolution of Miyazaki Coast was investigated in terms of four aspects, geology and geography, comparison of shoreline in available maps and photographs, sediment retention analysis in watershed scale and sediment size as well as luminescence measurements of foreshore sediments. Geological and geographical analysis revealed steep topography in northern part and fluvial plain on the southern part. The total rate of sediment retention in reservoirs was found to be as much as 1.9 million m3/year. Historical shoreline retreat in the recent 200 years was significant in the northern region whereas severe erosion was developed in the last decades on the southern region close to the rivermouths of the Hitotsuse River and the Ooyodo River. The sand grain size and the thermoluminescence intensity were both found to decrease from north to south, implying the dominant direction of longshore sand transport is from north to south.


1991 ◽  
Vol 11 (8-10) ◽  
pp. 1069-1082 ◽  
Author(s):  
Roger Pocklington ◽  
James D. Leonard ◽  
Norman F. Crewe

2020 ◽  
Vol 181 ◽  
pp. 104788 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marco Cardinale ◽  
Riccardo Pozzobon ◽  
Anna Chiara Tangari ◽  
Kirby Runyon ◽  
Maristella Di Primio ◽  
...  

Tidal Inlets ◽  
2017 ◽  
pp. 13-23
Author(s):  
J. van de Kreeke ◽  
R. L. Brouwer

2013 ◽  
Vol 165 ◽  
pp. 1122-1127
Author(s):  
Verner B. Ernstsen ◽  
Alice Lefebvre ◽  
Aart Kroon ◽  
Sanne Lina Niemann

Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (5) ◽  
pp. 719-734 ◽  
Author(s):  
Matteo Postacchini ◽  
Luciano Soldini ◽  
Carlo Lorenzoni ◽  
Alessandro Mancinelli

Abstract. In recent years, attention has been paid to beach protection by means of soft and hard defenses. Along the Italian coast of the Adriatic Sea, sandy beaches are the most common landscape feature and around 70 % of the Marche region's coast (central Adriatic) is protected by defense structures. The longest free-from-obstacle nearshore area in the region includes the beach of Senigallia, frequently monitored in the last decades and characterized by a multiple bar system, which represents a natural beach defense. The bathymetries surveyed in 2006, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 show long-term stability, confirmed by a good adaptation of an analyzed stretch of the beach to the Dean-type equilibrium profile, though a strong short- to medium-term variability of the wave climate has been observed during the monitored periods. The medium-term dynamics of the beach, which deal with the evolution of submerged bars and are of the order of years or seasons, have been related to the wave climate collected, during the analyzed temporal windows, by a wave buoy located about 40 km off Senigallia. An overall interpretation of the hydrodynamics, sediment characteristics and seabed morphology suggests that the wave climate is fundamental for the morphodynamic changes of the beach in the medium term. These medium-term time ranges during which waves mainly come from NNE/ESE are characterized by a larger/smaller steepness and by a larger/smaller relative wave height, and seem to induce seaward/shoreward bar migration as well as bar smoothing/steepening. Moving southeastward, the bar dimension increases, while the equilibrium profile shape suggests the adaptation to a decreasing sediment size in the submerged beach. This is probably due to the presence of both the harbor jetty and river mouth north of the investigated area.


2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Matteo Postacchini ◽  
Luciano Soldini ◽  
Carlo Lorenzoni ◽  
Alessandro Mancinelli

Abstract. In the recent years, attention has been paid to beach protection by means of soft and hard defenses. Along the Italian coasts of the Adriatic Sea, sandy beaches are the most common landscapes and around 70 % of the Marche-Region coasts (central Adriatic), is protected by defense structures. The longest free-from-obstacle nearshore area in the region includes the beach of Senigallia, characterized by a multiple barred beach, frequently monitored during the last decades. The bathymetries surveyed in 2006, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013 show long-term stability, confirmed by a good adaptation of an analyzed stretch of the beach to the Dean-type equilibrium profile, though a strong short-/medium-term variability of the wave climate has been observed during the monitored periods. This suggests a slight influence of wave forcing on the long-term profiles, which seems to only depend on the sediment size. Further, the medium-term dynamics of the submerged bars and their geometric features have been related to the wave climate collected, during the analyzed temporal windows, by a wave buoy located 40 km off Senigallia. An overall interpretation of the complete dynamics, i.e. hydrodynamics (buoy data), sediment characteristics (equilibrium-profile A parameter) and morphodynamics (bathymetric surveys), suggests that the wave climate is fundamental for the morphodynamic changes of the beach in the medium term: waves coming from NNE/ESE, characterized by a larger/smaller steepness and by a larger/smaller relative wave height, induce seaward/shoreward bar migration, as well as bar smoothing/steepening. Moving southeastward, the bar dimension increases, while the equilibrium profile shape suggests the adaptation to a decreasing sediment size in the submerged beach. This is probably due to the presence of both the harbor jetty and river mouth North of the investigated area.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document