Coming apart at the seams: How the theatrical within fashion makes space for empowerment
Relationships between fashion and theatricality open up spaces of fantasy in which new ways of being can be imagined. In drawing upon the ways in which theatre exists in a space that is both physically real and created through imagination, the theatrics of high fashion similarly create spaces that are both physically real and imagined. Though often read as a symptom of an unnecessarily excessive system, theatricality in fashion can alternatively signal a turn towards a more ethical fashion system. Because fashion (as it relates to the production and consumption of clothing and other wearable goods) is invariably part of the problem, it provides a unique and valuable way of investigating practices of overconsumption, waste and environmental abuse. However, because high fashion functions in a space of slippages between the physically real and the imaginary, it also contains the potential to provide imaginings of possible alternative futures. Drawing upon Steven Meisel’s photography editorial for Italian Vogue, ‘Water & Oil’ (August 2010), this article investigates the ways in which fashion’s excessiveness can be reimagined as an argument for the essentialness of pleasure, and that pleasure is not synonymous with waste.