Assimilation of Three-Dimensional Phase-Resolved Wave-Field Data Using an Efficient High-Order Spectral Method

2001 ◽  
Author(s):  
Dick K. Yue
2016 ◽  
Vol 203 ◽  
pp. 245-254 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guillaume Ducrozet ◽  
Félicien Bonnefoy ◽  
David Le Touzé ◽  
Pierre Ferrant

2011 ◽  
Vol 25 (4) ◽  
pp. 679-686 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ai-feng Tao ◽  
Jin-hai Zheng ◽  
Mee Soe Mee ◽  
Bo-tao Chen

Author(s):  
Marco Klein ◽  
Matthias Dudek ◽  
Günther F. Clauss ◽  
Norbert Hoffmann ◽  
Jasper Behrendt ◽  
...  

Abstract The applicability of the High-Order Spectral Method (HOSM) as a very fast non-linear method for deterministic short-term wave prediction is discussed within this paper. The focus lies on the systematic experimental validation of the HOSM in order to identify and evaluate possible areas of application as well as limitations of use. For this purpose, irregular sea states with varying parameters such as wave steepness and underlying wave spectrum are addressed by numerical simulations and model tests in the controlled environment of a seakeeping basin. In addition, the influence of the propagation distance is discussed. For the evaluation of the accuracy of the HOSM prediction, the surface similarity parameter (SSP) is utilized, allowing a quantitative validation of the results. The results obtained are compared to linear wave prediction to discuss the pros and cons of a non-linear deterministic short-term wave prediction. In conclusion, this paper shows that the non-linear deterministic wave prediction based on HOSM leads to a substantial improvement of the prediction quality for moderate and steep irregular wave trains in terms of individual waves and prediction distance.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christopher Lawrence ◽  
Karsten Trulsen ◽  
Odin Gramstad

<p>Non-uniform bathymetry may modify the wave statistics for both surface elevation and velocity field.<br>Laboratory evidence reported by Trulsen et al. (2012) shows that for a relatively long unidirectional<br>waves propagating over a sloping bottom, from deep to shallower water, there can be a local maximum<br>of kurtosis and skewness in surface elevation near the edge of the shallower side of the slope. Recent<br>laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular waves propagating over a shoal by Trulsen et al. (2020)<br>reported that the kurtosis of horizontal velocity field have different behaviour from the kurtosis of surface<br>elevation where the local maximum of kurtosis in surface elevation and horizontal velocity occur at<br>different location.<br>In present work, we utilize numerical simulation to study the evolution of skewness and kurtosis for<br>irregular waves propagating over a three-dimensional varying bathymetry. Numerical simulations are<br>based on High Order Spectral Method (HOSM) for variable depth as described in Gouin et al. (2017)<br>for wave evolution and Variational Boussinesq model (VBM) as described in Lawrence et al. (2021) for<br>velocity field calculation.</p><p> </p><p>References</p><p>GOUIN, M., DUCROZET, G. & FERRANT, P. 2017 Propagation of 3D nonlinear waves over an elliptical<br>mound with a High-Order Spectral method. Eur. J. Mech. B Fluids 63, 9–24.<br>LAWRENCE, C., GRAMSTAD, O. & TRULSEN, K. 2021 Variational Boussinesq model for kinematics<br>calculation of surface gravity waves over bathymetry. Wave Motion 100, 102665.<br>TRULSEN, K., RAUSTØL, A., JORDE, S. & RYE, L. 2020 Extreme wave statistics of long-crested<br>irregular waves over a shoal. J. Fluid Mech. 882, R2.<br>TRULSEN, K., ZENG, H. & GRAMSTAD, O. 2012 Laboratory evidence of freak waves provoked by<br>non-uniform bathymetry. Phys. Fluids 24, 097101.</p>


1992 ◽  
Vol 245 (-1) ◽  
pp. 115 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuming Liu ◽  
Douglas G. Dommermuth ◽  
Dick K. P. Yue

2018 ◽  
Vol 838 ◽  
pp. 544-572 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yusheng Qi ◽  
Guangyu Wu ◽  
Yuming Liu ◽  
Moo-Hyun Kim ◽  
Dick K. P. Yue

We develop and validate a high-order reconstruction (HOR) method for the phase-resolved reconstruction of a nonlinear wave field given a set of wave measurements. HOR optimizes the amplitude and phase of $L$ free wave components of the wave field, accounting for nonlinear wave interactions up to order $M$ in the evolution, to obtain a wave field that minimizes the reconstruction error between the reconstructed wave field and the given measurements. For a given reconstruction tolerance, $L$ and $M$ are provided in the HOR scheme itself. To demonstrate the validity and efficacy of HOR, we perform extensive tests of general two- and three-dimensional wave fields specified by theoretical Stokes waves, nonlinear simulations and physical wave fields in tank experiments which we conduct. The necessary $L$, for general broad-banded wave fields, is shown to be substantially less than the free and locked modes needed for the nonlinear evolution. We find that, even for relatively small wave steepness, the inclusion of high-order effects in HOR is important for prediction of wave kinematics not in the measurements. For all the cases we consider, HOR converges to the underlying wave field within a nonlinear spatial-temporal predictable zone ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ which depends on the measurements and wave nonlinearity. For infinitesimal waves, ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ matches the linear predictable zone ${\mathcal{P}}_{L}$, verifying the analytic solution presented in Qi et al. (Wave Motion, vol. 77, 2018, pp. 195–213). With increasing wave nonlinearity, we find that ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ contains and is generally greater than ${\mathcal{P}}_{L}$. Thus ${\mathcal{P}}_{L}$ provides a (conservative) estimate of ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ when the underlying wave field is not known.


2012 ◽  
Vol 34 ◽  
pp. 19-34 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guillaume Ducrozet ◽  
Félicien Bonnefoy ◽  
David Le Touzé ◽  
Pierre Ferrant

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