Nonlinear phase-resolved reconstruction of irregular water waves

2018 ◽  
Vol 838 ◽  
pp. 544-572 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yusheng Qi ◽  
Guangyu Wu ◽  
Yuming Liu ◽  
Moo-Hyun Kim ◽  
Dick K. P. Yue

We develop and validate a high-order reconstruction (HOR) method for the phase-resolved reconstruction of a nonlinear wave field given a set of wave measurements. HOR optimizes the amplitude and phase of $L$ free wave components of the wave field, accounting for nonlinear wave interactions up to order $M$ in the evolution, to obtain a wave field that minimizes the reconstruction error between the reconstructed wave field and the given measurements. For a given reconstruction tolerance, $L$ and $M$ are provided in the HOR scheme itself. To demonstrate the validity and efficacy of HOR, we perform extensive tests of general two- and three-dimensional wave fields specified by theoretical Stokes waves, nonlinear simulations and physical wave fields in tank experiments which we conduct. The necessary $L$, for general broad-banded wave fields, is shown to be substantially less than the free and locked modes needed for the nonlinear evolution. We find that, even for relatively small wave steepness, the inclusion of high-order effects in HOR is important for prediction of wave kinematics not in the measurements. For all the cases we consider, HOR converges to the underlying wave field within a nonlinear spatial-temporal predictable zone ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ which depends on the measurements and wave nonlinearity. For infinitesimal waves, ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ matches the linear predictable zone ${\mathcal{P}}_{L}$, verifying the analytic solution presented in Qi et al. (Wave Motion, vol. 77, 2018, pp. 195–213). With increasing wave nonlinearity, we find that ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ contains and is generally greater than ${\mathcal{P}}_{L}$. Thus ${\mathcal{P}}_{L}$ provides a (conservative) estimate of ${\mathcal{P}}_{NL}$ when the underlying wave field is not known.

Author(s):  
Ali Mohtat ◽  
Solomon Yim ◽  
Alfred R. Osborne

Abstract The survivability, safe operation, and design of marine vehicles and wave energy converters are highly dependent on accurate characterization and estimation of the energy content of the ocean wave field. In this study, analytical solutions of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS) using periodic inverse scattering transformation (IST) and its associated Riemann spectrum are employed to obtain the nonlinear wave modes (eigen functions of the nonlinear equation consisting of multiple phase-locked harmonic components). These nonlinear wave modes are used in two approaches to develop a more accurate definition of the energy content. First, in an ad hoc approach, the amplitudes of the nonlinear wave modes are used with a linear energy calculation resulting in a semi-linear energy estimate. Next, a novel, mathematically exact definition of the energy content taking into account the nonlinear effects up to fifth order is introduced in combination with the nonlinear wave modes, the exact energy content of the wave field is computed. Experimental results and numerical simulations were used to compute and analyze the linear, ad hoc, and exact energy contents of the wave field, using both linear and nonlinear spectra. The ratio of the ad hoc and exact energy estimates to the linear energy content were computed to examine the effect of nonlinearity on the energy content. In general, an increasing energy ratio was observed for increasing nonlinearity of the wave field, with larger contributions from higher-order harmonic terms. It was confirmed that the significant increase in nonlinear energy content with respect to its linear counterpart is due to the increase in the number of nonlinear phase-locked (bound wave) modes.


Geophysics ◽  
1984 ◽  
Vol 49 (2) ◽  
pp. 124-131 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jeno Gazdag ◽  
Piero Sguazzero

Under the horizontally layered velocity assumption, migration is defined by a set of independent ordinary differential equations in the wavenumber‐frequency domain. The wave components are extrapolated downward by rotating their phases. This paper shows that one can generalize the concepts of the phase‐shift method to media having lateral velocity variations. The wave extrapolation procedure consists of two steps. In the first step, the wave field is extrapolated by the phase‐shift method using ℓ laterally uniform velocity fields. The intermediate result is ℓ reference wave fields. In the second step, the actual wave field is computed by interpolation from the reference wave fields. The phase shift plus interpolation (PSPI) method is unconditionally stable and lends itself conveniently to migration of three‐dimensional data. The performance of the methods is demonstrated on synthetic examples. The PSPI migration results are then compared with those obtained from a finite‐difference method.


Author(s):  
Alfred R. Osborne

Abstract This paper addresses two issues with regard to nonlinear ocean waves. (1) The first issue relates to the often-confused differences between the coordinates used for the measurement and characterization of ocean surface waves: The surface elevation and the complex modulation of a wave field. (2) The second issue relates to the very different kinds of physical wave behavior that occur in shallow and deep water. Both issues come from the known, very different behaviors of deep and shallow water waves. In shallow water one often uses the Korteweg-deVries that describes the wave surface elevation in terms of cnoidal waves and solitons. In deep water one uses the nonlinear Schrödinger equation whose solutions correspond to the complex envelope of a wave field that has Stokes wave and breather solutions. Here I make clear the relationships between the two ways of characterizing surface waves. Furthermore, and more importantly, I address the issues of matching the two types of wave behavior as the wave motion passes from deep to shallow water, or vice versa. For wave measurements we normally obtain the surface elevation with a wave staff, resistance gauge or pressure recorder for getting time series. Remote sensing applications relate to the use of lidar, radar or synthetic aperture radar for obtaining space series. The two types of wave behavior can therefore crucially depend on where the instrument is placed on the “ground track” or “field” over which the lidar or radar measurements are made. Thus the matching problem from deep to shallow water is not only important for wave measurements, but also for wave modeling. Modern wave models [Osborne, 2010, 2018, 2019a, 2019b] that maintain the coherent structures of wave dynamics (solitons, Stokes waves, breathers, superbreathers, vortices, etc.) must naturally pass from deep to shallow water where the nature of the nonlinear physics, and the form of the coherent structures, change. I address these issues and more herein. This paper is directed towards the development of methods for the real time measurement of waves by shipboard radar and for wave measurements by airplane and helicopter using lidar and synthetic aperture radar. Wave modeling efforts are also underway.


2018 ◽  
Vol 13 (4) ◽  
pp. 40 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.-P. Giovanangeli ◽  
C. Kharif ◽  
Y.A. Stepanyants

Interpretation of random wave field on a shallow water in terms of Fourier spectra is not adequate, when wave amplitudes are not infinitesimally small. A nonlinearity of wave fields leads to the harmonic interactions and random variation of Fourier spectra. As has been shown by Osborne and his co-authors, a more adequate analysis can be performed in terms of nonlinear modes representing cnoidal waves; a spectrum of such modes remains unchanged even in the process of nonlinear mode interactions. Here we show that there is an alternative and more simple analysis of random wave fields on shallow water, which can be presented in terms of interacting Korteweg–de Vries solitons. The data processing of random wave field is developed on the basis of inverse scattering method. The soliton component obscured in a random wave field is determined and a corresponding distribution function of number of solitons on their amplitudes is constructed. The approach developed is illustrated by means of artificially generated quasi-random wave field and applied to the real data interpretation of wind waves generated in the laboratory wind tank.


Author(s):  
Wenting Xiao ◽  
Yuming Liu ◽  
Dick K. P. Yue

We describe an investigation of the occurrence, statistics, and generation mechanisms of rogue wave in the open sea using direct three-dimensional phase-resolved nonlinear wavefield simulations. To achieve this we develop an efficient nonlinear wavefield simulation capability based on the high-order spectrum method which solves the primitive phase-resolved Euler equations. The simulations account for nonlinear wave-wave interactions up to an arbitrary high order in the wave steepness and are capable of accounting for effects of bottom bathymetry, variable current, and direct physics-based models for wind input and wave breaking dissipation. We apply direct large-scale simulations to obtain a large number of phase-resolved nonlinear wavefields, initially specified by directional wave spectra. The typical spatial-temporal domain size of such numerical nonlinear wavefields is O(103 km2) over evolution time of O(hr). These spatial and temporal scales account for quartet resonant interactions and partially for quintet resonant interactions among wave components in the wavefield. From the simulated nonlinear wavefields, rogue wave events are identified and their occurrence statistics are studied. It is shown that the classic linear theory (i.e. Rayleigh distribution) significantly underestimates the rogue wave occurrence. Second-order theory improves the Rayleigh prediction, but still underestimates the rogue wave occurrence in wavefields with moderately large wave steepness and relatively narrow directional spreading and spectrum bandwidth. The influence of key wave spectrum parameters (such as significant wave height, directional spreading, effective steepness, and spectrum bandwidth) on the rogue wave occurrence is analyzed. The classification of rogue waves according to their configuration is also obtained. The key characteristics of a rogue wave or rogue wave group in terms of kinematics and surface structure are analyzed and quantified. The nonlinear wave simulations, which provide full three-dimensional kinematics and dynamics of rogue wave events, provide a powerful tool for understanding the underlying mechanisms of their generation. They are elucidated by specific examples.


Author(s):  
Mathias Klahn ◽  
Per A. Madsen ◽  
David R. Fuhrman

In this paper, we study the mean and variance of the Eulerian and Lagrangian fluid velocities as a function of depth below the surface of directionally spread irregular wave fields given by JONSWAP spectra in deep water. We focus on the behaviour of these quantities in the bulk of the water, and using second-order potential flow theory we derive new simple asymptotic approximations for their decay in the limit of large depth below the surface. Specifically, we show that when the depth is greater than about 1.5 peak wavelengths, the variance of the Eulerian velocity decays in proportion to exp ⁡ ( − ( 135 4 ) 1 / 3 ( − k p z ) 2 / 3 ) , and the mean Lagrangian velocity decays in proportion to 1 ( − k p z ) 1 / 6 exp ⁡ ( − ( 135 4 ) 1 / 3 ( − k p z ) 2 / 3 ) . Here, k p is the peak wave number and z is the vertical coordinate measured positively upwards from the still water level. We test the accuracy of the second-order formulation against new fully nonlinear simulations of both short crested and long crested irregular wave fields and find a good match, even when the simulations are known to be affected substantially by third-order effects. To our knowledge, this marks the first fully nonlinear investigation of the Eulerian and Lagrangian velocities below the surface in irregular wave fields.


2019 ◽  
Vol 874 ◽  
pp. 391-425 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xuanting Hao ◽  
Lian Shen

We present a study on the interaction between wind and water waves with a broad-band spectrum using wave-phase-resolved simulation with long-term wave field evolution. The wind turbulence is computed using large-eddy simulation and the wave field is simulated using a high-order spectral method. Numerical experiments are carried out for turbulent wind blowing over a wave field initialised using the Joint North Sea Wave Project spectrum, with various wind speeds considered. The results show that the waves, together with the mean wind flow and large turbulent eddies, have a significant impact on the wavenumber–frequency spectrum of the wind turbulence. It is found that the shear stress contributed by sweep events in turbulent wind is greatly enhanced as a result of the waves. The dependence of the wave growth rate on the wave age is consistent with the results in the literature. The probability density function and high-order statistics of the wave surface elevation deviate from the Gaussian distribution, manifesting the nonlinearity of the wave field. The shape of the change in the spectrum of wind-waves resembles that of the nonlinear wave–wave interactions, indicating the dominant role played by the nonlinear interactions in the evolution of the wave spectrum. The frequency downshift phenomenon is captured in our simulations wherein the wind-forced wave field evolves for $O(3000)$ peak wave periods. Using the numerical result, we compute the universal constant in a wave-growth law proposed in the literature, and substantiate the scaling of wind–wave growth based on intrinsic wave properties.


2016 ◽  
Vol 33 (6) ◽  
pp. 1135-1149 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yusheng Qi ◽  
Wenting Xiao ◽  
Dick K. P. Yue

AbstractThe possibility of reconstructing sea surface wave fields from a noncoherent X-band marine radar return has much potential for maritime operations and ocean engineering. The existing reconstruction method extracts the signal associated with gravity waves that satisfy the dispersion relationship. The process involves parameters related to how the radar signal is modulated by waves of different lengths, propagation directions, amplitudes, and phases. In the absence of independent wave measurements, these reconstruction parameters cannot be rationally adjusted according to wave field conditions, and the predictions are generally of uneven accuracy and reliability. A new reconstruction method based on concurrent phase-resolved wave field simulations is proposed. By maximizing the correlation between the reconstructed and simulated wave fields over time, optimal values of the reconstruction parameters are obtained that are found to vary appreciably with the wave field properties and with the location and size of the subdomain being sensed and reconstructed. With this phase-resolved simulation calibrated (PRSC) approach, the correlation between the evolving reconstructed wave field and that based on phase-resolved simulation, which measures the consistency and fidelity of the reconstruction, is improved significantly (by up to a factor of 2) and is obtained in a substantially broader range of sea states compared to existing methods.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ilya Mullyadzhanov ◽  
Rustam Mullyadzhanov ◽  
Andrey Gelash

<p>The one-dimensional nonlinear Schrodinger equation (NLSE) serves as a universal model of nonlinear wave propagation appearing in different areas of physics. In particular it describes weakly nonlinear wave trains on the surface of deep water and captures up to certain extent the phenomenon of rogue waves formation. The NLSE can be completely integrated using the inverse scattering transform method that allows transformation of the wave field to the so-called scattering data representing a nonlinear analogue of conventional Fourier harmonics. The scattering data for the NLSE can be calculated by solving an auxiliary linear system with the wave field playing the role of potential – the so-called Zakharov-Shabat problem. Here we present a novel efficient approach for numerical computation of scattering data for spatially periodic nonlinear wave fields governed by focusing version of the NLSE. The developed algorithm is based on Fourier-collocation method and provides one an access to full scattering data, that is main eigenvalue spectrum (eigenvalue bands and gaps) and auxiliary spectrum (specific phase parameters of the nonlinear harmonics) of Zakharov-Shabat problem. We verify the developed algorithm using a simple analytic plane wave solution and then demonstrate its efficiency with various examples of large complex nonlinear wave fields exhibiting intricate structure of bands and gaps. Special attention is paid to the case when the wave field is strongly nonlinear and contains solitons which correspond to narrow gaps in the eigenvalue spectrum, see e.g. [1], when numerical computations may become unstable [2]. Finally we discuss applications of the developed approach for analysis of numerical and experimental nonlinear wave fields data.</p><p>The work was supported by Russian Science Foundation grant No. 20-71-00022.</p><p>[1] A. A. Gelash and D. S. Agafontsev, Physical Review E 98, 042210 (2018).</p><p>[2] A. Gelash and R. Mullyadzhanov, Physical Review E 101, 052206 (2020).</p>


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