Nonlinear Time-Dependent Currents in the Surf Zone

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
Donald N. Slinn
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Time Dependent

scholarly journals Second-Order Time-Dependent Mild-Slope Equation for Wave Transformation

2014 ◽  
Vol 2014 ◽  
pp. 1-15
Author(s):  
Ching-Piao Tsai ◽  
Hong-Bin Chen ◽  
John R. C. Hsu
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equation ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Linear Time ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Perturbation Scheme ◽  
Mild Slope Equation

This study is to propose a wave model with both wave dispersivity and nonlinearity for the wave field without water depth restriction. A narrow-banded sea state centred around a certain dominant wave frequency is considered for applications in coastal engineering. A system of fully nonlinear governing equations is first derived by depth integration of the incompressible Navier-Stokes equation in conservative form. A set of second-order nonlinear time-dependent mild-slope equations is then developed by a perturbation scheme. The present nonlinear equations can be simplified to the linear time-dependent mild-slope equation, nonlinear long wave equation, and traditional Boussinesq wave equation, respectively. A finite volume method with the fourth-order Adams-Moulton predictor-corrector numerical scheme is adopted to directly compute the wave transformation. The validity of the present model is demonstrated by the simulation of the Stokes wave, cnoidal wave, and solitary wave on uniform depth, nonlinear wave shoaling on a sloping beach, and wave propagation over an elliptic shoal. The nearshore wave transformation across the surf zone is simulated for 1D wave on a uniform slope and on a composite bar profile and 2D wave field around a jetty. These computed wave height distributions show very good agreement with the experimental results available.

Nonlinear Time-Dependent Currents in the Surf Zone

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Donald N. Slinn
Keyword(s):  
Surf Zone ◽  
Time Dependent

scholarly journals A NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE DEFORMATION IN SURF ZONE

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 41 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Watanabe ◽  
Mohammad Dibajnia
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Numerical Model ◽  
Potential Energy ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Wave Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Deformation

A numerical model is presented for nearshore wave deformation due to shoaling and breaking, and to decay and recovery in the surf zone. The model is based on a set of time-dependent mild slope equations including a term of wave energy dissipation caused by breaking. Its applicability is demonstrated by comparisons between the computations and the measurements of cross-shore distributions of the wave height and potential energy over typical beach configurations.

scholarly journals NUMERICAL MODELLING OF HYDRODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE : A SENSITIVITY STUDY WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF NUMERICAL MODELS

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 23 ◽  
Author(s):  
Koen Jacobus Martha Trouw ◽  
Nicolas Zimmermann ◽  
Mieke Mathys ◽  
Rosalia Delgado ◽  
Dano Roelvink
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Sensitivity Study ◽  
Short Wave ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Propagation Time ◽  
Meteorological Forcing ◽  
Flow And Transport ◽  
Different Types

A comparison between two very different numerical models is presented: Delft3D and XBeach. Delft3D (Deltares) calculates non-steady flow and transport phenomena that result from tidal and meteorological forcing. The wave propagation is calculated in the frequency domain. XBeach (Unesco-IHE, Delft University and Deltares) consists of formulations for short wave envelope propagation (time-dependent wave action balance), non-stationary shallow water equations, sediment transport and bed update. The model is able to resolve the time dependent long waves, which are important in the surf zone. A number of simplified cases are defined beforehand taking into account actual features and conditions existing in chosen problem areas. The examination of these simplified cases allows for the identification of driving processes and the assessment of the sensitivity to certain relevant parameters, with the advantage of working in scenarios of limited complexity and without excessive computational load.

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