scholarly journals Second-Order Time-Dependent Mild-Slope Equation for Wave Transformation

2014 ◽  
Vol 2014 ◽  
pp. 1-15
Author(s):  
Ching-Piao Tsai ◽  
Hong-Bin Chen ◽  
John R. C. Hsu
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equation ◽  
Wave Field ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Linear Time ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Stokes Wave ◽  
Perturbation Scheme ◽  
Mild Slope Equation

This study is to propose a wave model with both wave dispersivity and nonlinearity for the wave field without water depth restriction. A narrow-banded sea state centred around a certain dominant wave frequency is considered for applications in coastal engineering. A system of fully nonlinear governing equations is first derived by depth integration of the incompressible Navier-Stokes equation in conservative form. A set of second-order nonlinear time-dependent mild-slope equations is then developed by a perturbation scheme. The present nonlinear equations can be simplified to the linear time-dependent mild-slope equation, nonlinear long wave equation, and traditional Boussinesq wave equation, respectively. A finite volume method with the fourth-order Adams-Moulton predictor-corrector numerical scheme is adopted to directly compute the wave transformation. The validity of the present model is demonstrated by the simulation of the Stokes wave, cnoidal wave, and solitary wave on uniform depth, nonlinear wave shoaling on a sloping beach, and wave propagation over an elliptic shoal. The nearshore wave transformation across the surf zone is simulated for 1D wave on a uniform slope and on a composite bar profile and 2D wave field around a jetty. These computed wave height distributions show very good agreement with the experimental results available.

scholarly journals Extended Elliptic Mild Slope Equation Incorporating the Nonlinear Shoaling Effect

2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (s1) ◽  
pp. 44-51 ◽  
Author(s):  
Qian-lu Xiao ◽  
Chun-hui Li ◽  
Xiao-yan Fu ◽  
Mei-ju Wang
Keyword(s):  
Dispersion Relation ◽  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Wave Dispersion ◽  
Structure Design ◽  
Coastal Engineering ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Flume Experiments ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract The transformation during wave propagation is significantly important for the calculations of hydraulic and coastal engineering, as well as the sediment transport. The exact wave height deformation calculation on the coasts is essential to near-shore hydrodynamics research and the structure design of coastal engineering. According to the wave shoaling results gained from the elliptical cosine wave theory, the nonlinear wave dispersion relation is adopted to develop the expression of the corresponding nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient. Based on the extended elliptic mild slope equation, an efficient wave numerical model is presented in this paper for predicting wave deformation across the complex topography and the surf zone, incorporating the nonlinear wave dispersion relation, the nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient and other energy dissipation factors. Especially, the phenomenon of wave recovery and second breaking could be shown by the present model. The classical Berkhoff single elliptic topography wave tests, the sinusoidal varying topography experiment, and complex composite slopes wave flume experiments are applied to verify the accuracy of the calculation of wave heights. Compared with experimental data, good agreements are found upon single elliptical topography and one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope and step-type profiles. The results indicate that the newly-developed nonlinear wave shoaling coefficient improves the calculated accuracy of wave transformation in the surf zone efficiently, and the wave breaking is the key factor affecting the wave characteristics and need to be considered in the nearshore wave simulations.

Dispersion and nonlinearity of multi-layer non-hydrostatic free-surface flow

2013 ◽  
Vol 726 ◽  
pp. 226-260 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yefei Bai ◽  
Kwok Fai Cheung
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Perturbation Expansion ◽  
Boussinesq Equations ◽  
Surface Flow ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Superior Performance ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Intermediate Water ◽  
Governing Equations

AbstractNon-hydrostatic multi-layer models have become a popular tool in describing wave transformation from deep water to the surf zone, but the numerical approach lacks a theoretical framework to guide implementation and assist interpretation of the results. In this paper, we formulate a non-hydrostatic model in an analytical form for the derivation and examination of dispersive and nonlinear properties. Depth integration of the dimensionless continuity and Euler equations over each layer yields the conventional multi-layer formulation. A variable transformation converts the conventional form into an integrated series form, which provides separate descriptions of flux- and dispersion-dominated processes. Substitution of the non-hydrostatic pressure and vertical velocity in the governing equations by high-order derivatives of the horizontal velocity and surface elevation provides a direct comparison with the Boussinesq equations published in the literature. Implementation of a perturbation expansion extracts the first- and second-order governing equations with respect to the nonlinear parameter. Based on that, we derive analytical solutions of the linear dispersion and the second-order super- and sub-harmonics for up to three layers and optimize the solutions in terms of the layer arrangement. In relation to the Boussinesq equations at comparable orders of expansion, the two- and three-layer models provide slightly higher errors in shallow and intermediate water in terms of dispersion and super-harmonics, but show superior performance in describing sub-harmonics in deep water.

Numerical Simulation of Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone Over a Steep Bottom

2010 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Ta-Yuan Lin ◽  
Hwung-Hweng Hwung ◽  
Yaron Toledo ◽  
Aron Roland
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Numerical Models ◽  
Dissipation Factor ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Bottom Slope ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Efficient Scheme ◽  
Sloping Beach

The combined effect of shoaling, breaking and energy dissipation on a sloping bottom was investigated. Based on the conservation principle of wave motion, a combined shoaling and bottom slope coefficient is included in the mild-slope equation (MSE) which is derived as a function of the bottom slope perturbed to the third-order. The model incorporates the nonlinear shoaling coefficient and energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the simulation prior to wave breaking and in the surf zone over a steep bottom. The evolution equation of the MSE is implemented in the numerical solution which provides an efficient scheme for describing wave transformation in a large coastal area. The model validity is verified by comparison to accurate numerical models, laboratory experiments and analytical solutions of waves travelling over a steep sloping beach.

Analysis of Numerical Oscillation Problems in a Non Linear Time Dependent Mild Slope Model and First Developments for the Implementation of Wave Breaking

2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ana Catarina Zo´zimo ◽  
Conceic¸a˜o Fortes
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Linear Time ◽  
Momentum Equation ◽  
Time Dependent ◽  
Theoretical Formulation ◽  
Dissipative Term ◽  
Mild Slope Equation ◽  
Non Linear ◽  
Work Done

In this paper, a description of the numerical model NMLSE is presented. This model solves the time dependent non linear mild slope equation, without including energy dissipation due to wave breaking [1]. Some modifications are made in the boundary conditions of the original version of the model in order to overcome the numerical oscillation problems detected in the work done by [2]. To evaluate the effectiveness of the new versions of the model, they are applied to test cases of the bibliography and to a bar-trough profile beach for which there are data from physical model tests. The basic theoretical formulation of a new momentum equation that includes energy dissipation due to wave breaking is also presented. The energy dissipation due to wave breaking is included through the addition of a dissipative term based in the eddy viscosity concept.

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

scholarly journals Stable and Efficient Modeling of Anelastic Attenuation in Seismic Wave Propagation

2012 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
pp. 193-225 ◽  
Author(s):  
N. Anders Petersson ◽  
Björn Sjögreen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equation ◽  
Finite Difference ◽  
Half Space ◽  
Material Model ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Finite Difference Approximation ◽  
Difference Approximation ◽  
Space Problem ◽  
Standard Linear Solid ◽  
Standard Linear

AbstractWe develop a stable finite difference approximation of the three-dimensional viscoelastic wave equation. The material model is a super-imposition of N standard linear solid mechanisms, which commonly is used in seismology to model a material with constant quality factor Q. The proposed scheme discretizes the governing equations in second order displacement formulation using 3N memory variables, making it significantly more memory efficient than the commonly used first order velocity-stress formulation. The new scheme is a generalization of our energy conserving finite difference scheme for the elastic wave equation in second order formulation [SIAM J. Numer. Anal., 45 (2007), pp. 1902-1936]. Our main result is a proof that the proposed discretization is energy stable, even in the case of variable material properties. The proof relies on the summation-by-parts property of the discretization. The new scheme is implemented with grid refinement with hanging nodes on the interface. Numerical experiments verify the accuracy and stability of the new scheme. Semi-analytical solutions for a half-space problem and the LOH.3 layer over half-space problem are used to demonstrate how the number of viscoelastic mechanisms and the grid resolution influence the accuracy. We find that three standard linear solid mechanisms usually are sufficient to make the modeling error smaller than the discretization error.

scholarly journals A relativistic basis of the quantum theory.—II

1934 ◽  
Vol 145 (855) ◽  
pp. 645-656 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Quantum Mechanics ◽  
Wave Equation ◽  
Quantum Theory ◽  
General Expression ◽  
Matrix Equation ◽  
Covariant Derivative ◽  
Riemannian Geometry ◽  
Order Equation ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Space Curvature

The paper is a continuation of the last paper communicated to these 'Proceedings.' In that paper, which we shall refer to as the first paper, a more general expression for space curvature was obtained than that which occurs in Riemannian geometry, by a modification of the Riemannian covariant derivative and by the use of a fifth co-ordinate. By means of a particular substitution (∆ μσ σ = 1/ψ ∂ψ/∂x μ ) it was shown that this curvature takes the form of the second order equation of quantum mechanics. It is not a matrix equation, however but one which has the character of the wave equation as it occurred in the earlier form of the quantum theory. But it contains additional terms, all of which can be readily accounted for in physics, expect on which suggested an identification with energy of the spin.

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