Non-invasive identification of textile fibres using near-infrared fibre optics reflectance spectroscopy and multivariate classification techniques

The identification of textile fibres from cultural property provides information about the object's technology. Today, microscopic examination remains the preferred method, and molecular spectroscopies (e.g. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and Raman spectroscopies) can complement it but may present some limitations. To avoid sampling, non-invasive fibre optics reflectance spectroscopy (FORS) in the near-infrared (NIR) range showed promising results for identifying textile fibres; but examining and interpreting numerous spectra with features that are not well defined is highly time-consuming. Multivariate classification techniques may overcome this problem and have already shown promising results for classifying textile fibres for the textile industry but have been seldom used in the heritage science field. In this work, we compare the performance of two classification techniques, principal component analysis–linear discrimination analysis (PCA-LDA) and soft independent modelling of class analogy (SIMCA), to identify cotton, wool, and silk fibres, and their mixtures in historical textiles using FORS in the NIR range (1000–1700 nm). We built our models analysing reference samples of single fibres and their mixtures, and after the model calculation and evaluation, we studied four historical textiles: three Persian carpets from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and an Italian seventeenth-century tapestry. We cross-checked the results with Raman spectroscopy. The results highlight the advantages and disadvantages of both techniques for the non-invasive identification of the three fibre types in historical textiles and the influence their vicinity can have in the classification.