Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Breakwater and Characteristics of Secondary Wave Generated by Overtopping

Author(s):  
Xinyu Han ◽  
Yunpeng Jiang ◽  
Sheng Dong
Author(s):  
Zhuo Fang ◽  
Liang Cheng ◽  
Ningchuan Zhang

In this study, a 3-D numerical wave tank is developed, based on a commercial computational fluid dynamics (CFD) package (FLUENT) to predict wave forces on coastal and offshore structures. A source wave-generation method is introduced to FLUENT through user-defined functions to generate incident waves. Spongy layers are used on both upstream and downstream sides of the wave tank to reduce the effects of wave reflections and secondary wave reflections. Various wave trains, such as linear monochromatic waves, second order Stokes waves and irregular waves were generated by using different source functions. It is demonstrated through numerical examples that the source wave-generation method can accurately generate not only small amplitude waves but also nonlinear waves. The present numerical wave tank is validated against standing waves in front of a vertical breakwater. Interactions between waves and a comb-type breakwater are simulated using the present model. The numerical results are compared with physical experimental results. It is found that the present numerical wave tank simulated the wave and breakwater interactions well.


1977 ◽  
Vol 1977 (263) ◽  
pp. 63-76
Author(s):  
Toru SAWARAGI ◽  
Koichiro IWATA ◽  
Yoichi HUZIKAWA

2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.


1981 ◽  
Vol 46 (02) ◽  
pp. 547-549 ◽  
Author(s):  
E M Essien ◽  
M I Ebhota

SummaryDuring acute malaria infection, platelets in human platelet-rich plasma are hypersensitive to the addition of ADP between 1.0 uM and 5.0 uM, or adrenaline 0.11 uM as aggregating agents. The mean maximum aggregation amplitude (as % of light transmission) obtained from 8 subjects in response to added ADP (1.0 uM), 39.8 ± 27 (1SD), was significantly greater than the value in 6 controls (5.2±6.7 (1SD); t = 3, 51 P <0.005). A similar pattern of response was obtained with higher ADP concentrations (2.4,4.5 or 5.0 uM) in 22 patients and 20 control subjects (89.9±14.9% vs 77.8±16.5% (1SD) t = 2.45, P <0.02). Addition of 4.5 uM ADP to patient PRP usually evoked only a single aggregation wave (fused primary and secondary waves) while the typical primary and secondary wave pattern was usually obtained from controls.Mean plasma B-thromboglobulin (BTG) concentration in 7 patients (208.3 ± 15.6 ng/ml) was significantly higher than the value in 6 control subjects (59.2±15.7 ng/ml; t = 13.44, P <0.002).


Author(s):  
Б. Дивинский ◽  
B. Divinskiy ◽  
И. Грюне ◽  
I. Gryune ◽  
Р. Косьян ◽  
...  

Acoustic methods belong to contactless measurement means, possess high spatial and time resolution. Thus, the use of multifrequency allows directly profile both concentration and granulometric structure of the suspended substances. In 2008 in the Big Wave Flume (Hanover, Germany) by efforts of the Russian and German scientists there have been carried out the experiment on studying the bottom material suspension laws under the influence of irregular waves. The Aquascat 1000 acoustic back scattering sensor (ABS) manufactured by British company Aquatec (www.aquatecsubsea.com), equipped by a three-frequency transmitter with frequencies 1,0, 2,0 and 3,84 MHz, has been set on distance of 0,75 m from the bottom and 111 m from wave generator at the total depth of 3,2 m. Several dozen series of measurements at various parameters of surface waves have been carried out. The general picture of suspension is so that the external dynamic influence (currents, wave movements, turbulence, gravitation forces) creates a non-uniform field (gradient) of the suspended particles and in most cases due to this the average size of particles undergoes to the spatial-time variations. For this reason while defining the mass concentration of suspended sediment, using the single frequency transmitter there is necessity for numerous definition of the suspension granulometric structure what by isn’t always possible. If two and more frequencies are used the observed results comparison can give the information on average diameters of particles and on that basis the calculation of suspended sediment concentration is possibleLet's emphasize the basic advantages of back scattering acoustic gauges usage: – Obtaining the particles sizes and concentration distribution profiles is possible; – The initial granulometric structure of bottom sediments can be unknown (at use of several frequencies). The following can be referred to some lacks of the device: – The system should be calibrated in laboratory conditions; – In a positive feedback conditions the iterative computing process can converge to zero or to infinity. In this case experiments with a variation of carrier frequencies chosen for the analysis allow partially solve the problem (say experiments with different frequencies pairs, as 2/1 of MHz or 4/2 MHz).


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 520
Author(s):  
Zhenyu Liu ◽  
Zhen Guo ◽  
Yuzhe Dou ◽  
Fanyu Zeng

Most offshore wind turbines are installed in shallow water and exposed to breaking waves. Previous numerical studies focusing on breaking wave forces generally ignored the seabed permeability. In this paper, a numerical model based on Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations (VARANS) is employed to reveal the process of a solitary wave interacting with a rigid pile over a permeable slope. Through applying the Forchheimer saturated drag equation, effects of seabed permeability on fluid motions are simulated. The reliability of the present model is verified by comparisons between experimentally obtained data and the numerical results. Further, 190 cases are simulated and the effects of different parameters on breaking wave forces on the pile are studied systematically. Results indicate that over a permeable seabed, the maximum breaking wave forces can occur not only when waves break just before the pile, but also when a “secondary wave wall” slams against the pile, after wave breaking. With the initial wave height increasing, breaking wave forces will increase, but the growth can decrease as the slope angle and permeability increase. For inclined piles around the wave breaking point, the maximum breaking wave force usually occurs with an inclination angle of α = −22.5° or 0°.


2021 ◽  
pp. 103940
Author(s):  
Julie Caroee Kristoffersen ◽  
Henrik Bredmose ◽  
Christos Thomas Georgakis ◽  
Hubert Branger ◽  
Christopher Luneau

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