Empirical formulas for estimating maximum wave height and period in numerical wave hindcasting model

2019 ◽  
Vol 193 ◽  
pp. 106608 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hwusub Chun ◽  
Kyung-Duck Suh
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Empirical Formulas ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Numerical Wave ◽  
Wave Hindcasting

scholarly journals A TYPHOON WAVE HINDCASTING TECHNIQUE

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 38
Author(s):  
N.K. Liang ◽  
C.C. Chien
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Measured Data ◽  
Simple Method ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Typhoon Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Hindcasting ◽  
Wave Forecasting ◽  
Energy Conservation Principle

The typhoon wave forecasting technique proposed by C.L. Bretschneider (1) is a good simple method. However, the measured maximum wave height at Nan-Wan Bay (at southern tip of Taiwan) of Ida typhoon is about twice of the hindcasted maximum wave height. In general, the hindcasted maximum typhoon wave height arrives earlier than the measured data for Bretschneider's method as well as the other methods, such as Tang's and Ijima's methods. And as the typhoon is approaching the station, the hindcasted wave heights are smaller than the measured ones. On the contrary, as the typhoon is leaving the station, the hindcasted wave heights are greater than the measured heights. In order to improve these defects, the typhoon swell proposed by Liang (7) is superimposed upon the typhoon wind wave according to the energy conservation principle. The modified wave period is calculated by the energy-weighted method. In this paper 8 typhoons are as examples to show that the new method has amended the above-mentioned defects.

Semi-Empirical Crest Distributions of Long-Crest Nonlinear Waves of Three-Hour Duration

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhenjia (Jerry) Huang ◽  
Qiuchen Guo
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Model Test ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Wave Crest ◽  
Empirical Formulas ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Semi Empirical

In wave basin model test of an offshore structure, waves that represent the given sea states have to be generated, qualified and accepted for the model test. For seakeeping and stationkeeping model tests, we normally accept waves in wave calibration tests if the significant wave height, spectral peak period and spectrum match the specified target values. However, for model tests where the responses depend highly on the local wave motions (wave elevation and kinematics) such as wave impact, green water impact on deck and air gap tests, additional qualification checks may be required. For instance, we may need to check wave crest probability distributions to avoid unrealistic wave crest in the test. To date, acceptance criteria of wave crest distribution calibration tests of large and steep waves of three-hour duration (full scale) have not been established. The purpose of the work presented in the paper is to provide a semi-empirical nonlinear wave crest distribution of three-hour duration for practical use, i.e. as an acceptance criterion for wave calibration tests. The semi-empirical formulas proposed in this paper were developed through regression analysis of a large number of fully nonlinear wave crest distributions. Wave time series from potential flow simulations, computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations and model test results were used to establish the probability distribution. The wave simulations were performed for three-hour duration assuming that they were long-crested. The sea states are assumed to be represented by JONSWAP spectrum, where a wide range of significant wave height, peak period, spectral peak parameter, and water depth were considered. Coefficients of the proposed semi-empirical formulas, comparisons among crest distributions from wave calibration tests, numerical simulations and the semi-empirical formulas are presented in this paper.

Searching for Factors that Limit Observed Extreme Maximum Wave Height Distributions in the North Sea

2008 ◽  
pp. 127-138 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gerrit Burgers ◽  
Frits Koek ◽  
Hans de Vries ◽  
Martin Stam
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
North Sea ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
The North ◽  
The North Sea

scholarly journals REPRODUCTION ANALYSIS OF HUMAN DRIFTING BEHAVIOR DURING TSUNAMI USING NUMERICAL CALCULATION

2020 ◽  
pp. 34
Author(s):  
Riko Morita ◽  
Taro Arikawa
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Calculation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Prediction Method ◽  
Great East Japan Earthquake ◽  
Numerical Calculations ◽  
Water Tank ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Hydraulic Experiment ◽  
Secondary Damage ◽  
Simulation Results

Along with the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake (Mw 9.0), a huge tsunami exceeding a maximum wave height of 15 m occurred. Many people and objects were destroyed and drifted by the tsunami. In addition, these debris were transported to various places that could not be predicted, resulting in significant secondary damage and increase in the number of missing. Therefore, in order to reduce the amount of damage, it is important to predict the behavior and landing points of person after set adrift in a tsunami. The best way to increase the rescue rate is to predict in advance the area that people will be drifted, and prioritize searching operations at that area. Although there has been considerable number of studies which handle the drifting behavior of containers and ships (e.g., Kaida et al., 2016), the prediction of drifting areas focusing on people has not been conducted. Moreover, a drifting area prediction method has not yet been established. The purpose of this study is to conduct a hydraulic experiment using a flat water tank, and observe the drifting area of the drifting object. Then, we conducted numerical calculations and compared simulation results with the experimental ones.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/1yhKuodhCbg

scholarly journals Pemanfaatan Data Angin Untuk Karakteristik Gelombang Laut Di Perairan Natuna Berdasarkan Data Angin tahun 2009 - 2018

2019 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 55
Author(s):  
Ary Afriady ◽  
Tasdik Mustika Alam ◽  
Mochamad Furqon Mustika Azis Ismail
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Wind Data ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
The West ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Transition Season ◽  
Forecasting Analysis ◽  
Environmental Prediction ◽  
Wave Forecasting

Analisis data angin dilakukan untuk meramalkan dan menentukan karakteristik gelombang laut di perairan Pulau Natuna. Data angin yang digunakan dalam penelitian ini berasal dari National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) selama 10 tahun dari tahun 2009 sampai dengan tahun 2018. Metoda yang digunakan untuk estimasi tinggi, periode dan arah gelombang laut yang dibangkitkan oleh angin adalah metode Svedrup, Munk dan Bretschneider (SMB). Hasil perhitungan peramalan karakteristik gelombang diperoleh bahwa pembentukan gelombang didominasi oleh arah yang berasal dari timur laut dan terjadi pada musim barat dan musim peralihan 1. Adapun pada musim timur dan peralihan, arah dominan gelombang masing-masing berasal dari selatan dan barat daya. Tinggi gelombang maksimum 1,0-1,4 m sering terjadi pada musim musim timur, adapun tinggi gelombang minimum 0,2-0,6 m dominan terjadi pada musim musim peralihan. Periode gelombang dominan ditemukan pada kisaran 7-9 detik yang terjadi pada tiap musim.  The analysis of wind data has been done to forecast and determine the characteristic of the ocean wave in Natuna Island waters. The wind data in this study came from the National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) for a period of 10 years from 2009 to 2018. The method to estimate wave height, wave period, and wave direction generated by wind is Sverdrup, Munk dan Bretschneider (SMB) system. The results of wave forecasting analysis show that the formation of the wave is mainly originated from the northeast which occurs during the west and first transition season. As for the east and second transition season, the origin of wave formation coming from the south and southwest, respectively. The maximum wave height of 1.0-1.4 m frequently occurs during the east monsoon, while the minimum wave height. The dominant wave period is found in the range of 7-9 seconds, which occurs in every season. 

scholarly journals NEW WAVE PRESSURE FORMULAE FOR COMPOSITE BREAKWATERS

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 100 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yoshimi Goda
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Action ◽  
Smooth Transition ◽  
New Wave ◽  
Wave Pressure ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Design Wave Height

A proposal is made for new wave pressure formulae, which can be applied for the whole ranges of wave action from nonbreaking to postbreaking waves with smooth transition between them. The design wave height is specified as the maximum wave height possible at the site of breakwater. The new formulae as well as the existing formulae of Hiroi, Sainflou, and Minikin have been calibrated with the cases of 21 slidings and 13 nonslidings of the upright sections of prototype breakwaters. The calibration establishes that the new formulae are the most accurate ones.

The Equivalent Power Storm Model for Long-Term Predictions of Extreme Wave Events

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco Fedele ◽  
Felice Arena
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Return Period ◽  
Shape Parameter ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Sea Storm ◽  
Storm Model ◽  
Good Agreement

We present the Equivalent Power Storm (EPS) model as a generalization of the Equivalent Triangular Storm (ETS) model of Boccotti for the long-term statistics of extreme wave events. In the EPS model, each actual storm is modeled in time t by a power law ∼|t−t0|λ, where λ is a shape parameter and t0 is the time when the storm peak occurs. We then derive the general expression of the return period R(Hs > h) of a sea storm in which the maximum significant wave height Hs exceeds a fixed threshold h as function of λ. Further, given the largest wave height Hmax, we identify the most probable storm in which the largest wave occurs and derive an explicit expression for the return period R(Hmax >H) of a storm in which the maximum wave height exceeds a given threshold H. Finally, we analyze wave measurements retrieved from two of the NOAA-NODC buoys in the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and find that the EPS predictions are in good agreement with those from the ETS model.

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