On the improvements in nearshore wave height predictions using nested SWAN-SWASH modelling in the eastern coastal waters of India

2021 ◽  
Vol 236 ◽  
pp. 109550
Author(s):  
P.A. Umesh ◽  
Manasa R. Behera
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Height Predictions

scholarly journals Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar, west coast of India

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Anjali Nair ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Temporal Variations ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Spectral Shapes

Abstract. Understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters are examined to know the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. For 31.15 % of the time, peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz and the significant wave height is also relatively high (~ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months and it increases with increase in significant wave height. There is no much interannual variation in slope for swell dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have much influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the high-frequency slope of the wave spectrum is within the range 3–4 during the monsoon period, Donelan spectrum shows better fit for the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

scholarly journals Observation on dominance of swells over wind-seas in the coastal waters of Gulf of Mannar, India

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. M. Amrutha ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Indian Subcontinent ◽  
Sea Breeze ◽  
Early Morning ◽  
Gulf Of Mannar ◽  
Study Region ◽  
Average Value ◽  
Late Evening ◽  
One Year

Abstract. In coastal gulfs generally, predominance of wind-seas are expected. Waves measured at a location having a water depth of 15 m in the nearshore waters of Gulf of Mannar during one year period (1 May 2015 to 30 April 2016) is used to examine the predominance of wind-seas and swells through spectral characterization. The study shows that even though the location is in a gulf, the annual average value (~ 0.84 m) of the significant wave height at this area is comparable to that along the coastal waters of the Indian subcontinent, but the annual maximum value (~ 1.7 m) recorded is much less than that (3 to 5 m) observed in those regions. Also, large seasonal variations are not observed in the wave height. The waves of the study region are under the control of sea-breeze with the maximum in the late evening hours and the minimum in the early morning hours. 53 % of the surface height variance in the study area is a result of southeast and south swells and the remaining are the east and southeast wind-seas.

scholarly journals Observation of dominance of swells over wind seas in the coastal waters of the Gulf of Mannar, India

Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (5) ◽  
pp. 703-717 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. M. Amrutha ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Indian Subcontinent ◽  
Sea Breeze ◽  
Early Morning ◽  
Gulf Of Mannar ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Study Region ◽  
Average Value ◽  
Near Shore

Abstract. Wind seas typically dominate over swell seas in coastal gulfs. Waves measured at a location having a water depth of 12 m in the near-shore waters of the Gulf of Mannar during a 1-year period (1 May 2015 to 30 April 2016) are used to examine the predominance of wind seas and swells through spectral characterization. The study shows that even though the location is in a gulf, the annual average value ( ∼  0.84 m) of the significant wave height in this area is comparable to that along the coastal waters of the Indian subcontinent, but the annual maximum value ( ∼  1.7 m) recorded is much less than that (3 to 5 m) observed in those regions. Also, large seasonal variations are not observed in the wave height. The waves of the study region are under the control of sea breeze, with the maximum in the late evening hours and the minimum in the early morning hours. A 5 % increase in the forcing wind field during the monsoon period improved the comparison statistics between the model wave height and the measured values. A total of 53 % of the surface height variance in the study area is a result of swells from the southeast and south, and the remainder are wind seas from the east and southeast.

scholarly journals Wave Trajectory Study on the Coast of Lhoknga, Aceh Besar, Indonesia: A Numerical Model Approach

2018 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
pp. 30 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ichsan Setiawan ◽  
Mohammad Irham
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
High Tide ◽  
Two Dimensional ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Wave Refraction ◽  
Model Approach

A numerical model of wave trajectory using shoaling and refraction formula was proposed in the coastal waters of Lhoknga, Aceh Besar, Indonesia. The developed model used a two dimensional (2D) numerical methods for wave trajectory with the input of wave height and period; 0.62 m and 8 second for high tide and 0.47 m and 6 second for low tide. This model was tested on site during low tide and high tide conditions for verification. The purpose of this numerical study is to trace the distribution of wave trajectory because of shoaling, wave breaking, and wave refraction. The model determines the wave height and crest pattern of the ray wave trajectory. The simulation result shows the pattern of the wave propagation at Lhoknga beach moves from the northwest to the east and south of the coast. The model also informs that the maximum wave height during high tide condition is 1.72 m and 1.31 m during low tide condition. The result indicates that the coast of Lhoknga has moderate wave conditions caused by a gentle beach bathymetry slope.

Statistical models for improving significant wave height predictions in offshore operations

2020 ◽  
Vol 206 ◽  
pp. 107249
Author(s):  
Stergios Emmanouil ◽  
Sandra Gaytan Aguilar ◽  
Gabriela F. Nane ◽  
Jan-Joost Schouten
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Statistical Models ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Height Predictions ◽  
Offshore Operations

Wind and Wave Climate in Open Sea and Coastal Waters

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Weather Conditions ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
The North ◽  
Open Sea ◽  
Adverse Weather

Wind and wave climate is much region and location dependent, affected by local properties of ocean environment. For safety of world-wide sailing ships knowledge about wind and wave climate is important, not only for open sea, but also in coastal areas. Wind and waves impact ship design, marine operations and they challenge ability of ships to maintain manoeuvrability in sea states. Their description differs in open sea and coastal waters, and recently it has got an attention due to the issue of the 2013 Interim Guidelines by IMO where adverse weather conditions to be used in assessment of ship manoeuvrability have been proposed. The present study shows differences between open sea and coastal water wind and wave climate using hindcast data in the analysis. The description of open sea metocean conditions is limited to the North Atlantic while European waters are used as representative for coastal regions. Correlations between wind speed and significant wave height as well as significant wave height and spectral peak period are established and compare with the ones suggested by the 2013 Interim Guidelines. Challenges in providing metocean description for assessment of ship manoeuvrability and uncertainties related to it are discussed.

scholarly journals Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (3) ◽  
pp. 365-378 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Anjali Nair ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
High Frequency Part ◽  
Spectral Shapes

Abstract. An understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters of the eastern Arabian Sea using the moored directional waverider buoy are examined to determine the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. Over an annual cycle for 31.15 % of the time, the peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz; the significant wave height is also relatively high (∼ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months, and it increases with an increase in significant wave height. There is not much interannual variation in the slope for swell-dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have a high level of influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the exponent of the high-frequency part of the wave spectrum is within the range of −4 to −3 during the monsoon period, the Donelan spectrum shows a better fit for the high-frequency part of the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

Wave height predictions in complex sea flows through soft-computing models: Case study of Persian Gulf

2022 ◽  
Vol 245 ◽  
pp. 110467
Author(s):  
T. Sadeghifar ◽  
G.F.C. Lama ◽  
P. Sihag ◽  
A. Bayram ◽  
O. Kisi
Keyword(s):  
Soft Computing ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Persian Gulf ◽  
Height Predictions ◽  
Computing Models
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