Observation on dominance of swells over wind-seas in the coastal waters of Gulf of Mannar, India
Abstract. In coastal gulfs generally, predominance of wind-seas are expected. Waves measured at a location having a water depth of 15 m in the nearshore waters of Gulf of Mannar during one year period (1 May 2015 to 30 April 2016) is used to examine the predominance of wind-seas and swells through spectral characterization. The study shows that even though the location is in a gulf, the annual average value (~ 0.84 m) of the significant wave height at this area is comparable to that along the coastal waters of the Indian subcontinent, but the annual maximum value (~ 1.7 m) recorded is much less than that (3 to 5 m) observed in those regions. Also, large seasonal variations are not observed in the wave height. The waves of the study region are under the control of sea-breeze with the maximum in the late evening hours and the minimum in the early morning hours. 53 % of the surface height variance in the study area is a result of southeast and south swells and the remaining are the east and southeast wind-seas.