Analysis of wind generated wave characteristics by SWAN model in Balikpapan Bay

The initiative to relocate the capital of the Republic of Indonesia from Jakarta to Penajam Paser Utara requires research from various sectors in the area. Since Penajam Paser Utara is located in the coastal zone of Balikpapan Bay, it requires careful preparation. This research aims to examine the characteristics of wind-generated waves in the Balikpapan Bay area from 2016 to 2018. Bathymetry data from BATNAS with a resolution of 0.00166666° and Wind data (U10 wind velocity and direction) from the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) with a resolution of 0.25° × 0.25° were utilized as input data in this study during three years (2016-2018). This research used the SWAN Model to model wind-produced waves to get significant wave values in spatial and time series form and monthly and seasonal wave energy spectrum characteristics. Based on this research, it can be concluded that significant wave height values are strongly correlated with wind speed. The highest wind speed is found in the DJF (Transition I) season. Maximum Hs (wave height) is found in DJF season, while Hs tends to be high in SON (Transition II) as well as DJF (Western Season), and Hs tends to be weak in MAM (Transition I) season.

Estimating Coastal Winds by Assimilating High-Frequency Radar Spectrum Data in SWAN

Many activities require accurate wind and wave forecasts in the coastal ocean. The assimilation of fixed buoy observations into spectral wave models such as SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) can provide improved estimates of wave forecasts fields. High-frequency (HF) radar observations provide a spatially expansive dataset in the coastal ocean for assimilation into wave models. A forward model for the HF Doppler spectrum based on first- and second-order Bragg scattering was developed to assimilate the HF radar wave observations into SWAN. This model uses the spatially varying wave spectra computed using the SWAN model, forecast currents from the Navy Coastal Ocean Model (NCOM), and system parameters from the HF radar sites to predict time-varying range-Doppler maps. Using an adjoint of the HF radar model, the error between these predictions and the corresponding HF Doppler spectrum observations can be translated into effective wave-spectrum errors for assimilation in the SWAN model for use in correcting the wind forcing in SWAN. The initial testing and validation of this system have been conducted using data from ten HF radar sites along the Southern California Bight during the CASPER-West experiment in October 2017. The improved winds compare positively to independent observation data, demonstrating that this algorithm can be utilized to fill an observational gap in the coastal ocean for winds and waves.

Updated System for the Sea Wave Operational Forecast of the Black Sea Marine Forecasting Center

Purpose. The work is aimed at updating the sea wave forecasting system developed in the Black Sea Marine Forecasting Center by including the block of wind wave forecast in the Sevastopol region and by improving the wave forecast accuracy using the proposed procedure for the SWAN model tuning. Methods and Results. In the updated forecasting system, the possibility of performing the joint operational sea wave forecasts for the Black Sea and the Sevastopol region (with the 5 and 1 km spatial resolutions, respectively) became possible due to the nested grid method applied. To improve accuracy of the wave forecasts, the procedure for the SWAN model tuning was proposed. It is based on changing the parameterization of the surface friction coefficient Cd(V), where V is the surface wind speed. This permits to reduce the deviations of the forecasted wave heights from those obtained from the satellite altimetry measurements. Efficiency of the proposed procedure was assessed through comparison of the forecasting results with the remote sensing data. It is shown that in the forecasts supplied with an optimal choice of functional dependence Cd(V), the scattering index between the forecasted and measured values can be reduced by 20 %. Conclusions. Represented is the updated system of the Black Sea Marine Forecasting Center intended for the joint operational sea wave forecasts in the Black Sea and in the Sevastopol region. The results of model validation have shown that the procedure proposed for tuning the SWAN model makes it possible to reduce the deviations of the forecasted wave heights from those measured by the sensors installed at the altimetry satellites.

Extreme Waves in the Agulhas Current Region Inferred from SAR Wave Spectra and the SWAN Model

The influence of the Agulhas Current on the wave field is investigated. The study is conducted by performing high resolution spectral wave model simulations with and without ocean currents. The validation of the numerical simulations is performed for the Significant Wave Height (Hs) using all possible satellite altimetry data available in the study region for a winter period of 2018. Wave spectra and extreme waves parameters are examined in places where waves and current are aligned in the Agulhas Current. Sentinel-1 (S1) wave mode Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) spectra are used to estimate the composites of the Hs and BFI (Benjamin–Feir Index). SAR computed BFI and Hs were compared with the respective composites obtained from the Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model. From the Hs composites using SAR data and modeled data, it can be concluded that the Hs maxima values are distributed in the Agulhas Current Retroflection (ACR) and also in the southern limit of the domain that is affected by the strong circumpolar winds around Antarctic. In addition, the BFI composites exhibit the highest values in the ACR and some few values are observed in the southern border as occurred with the Hs. The results of this study indicate that there is direct correlation between the Agulhas Current strength, the Hs and the BFI. It was found that the modeled directional wave spectra are broadened when the ocean current is considered in the simulation. The analysis of the modeled wave spectra is performed over eddies, rings and meanders in the Agulhas Current region. The transformation of the wave spectra due to current refraction is discussed based on the numerical simulations. The effect of the Agulhas Current on the spectral shape is explored. The spectral wave energy grows when the wave and the current are aligned, resulting in peaked, elongated and widened spectra. A decrease of the peak period was observed before the occurrence of maximum values of BFI, which characterize abnormal sea states.