scholarly journals Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar, west coast of India

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Anjali Nair ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Temporal Variations ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Spectral Shapes

Abstract. Understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters are examined to know the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. For 31.15 % of the time, peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz and the significant wave height is also relatively high (~ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months and it increases with increase in significant wave height. There is no much interannual variation in slope for swell dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have much influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the high-frequency slope of the wave spectrum is within the range 3–4 during the monsoon period, Donelan spectrum shows better fit for the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

scholarly journals Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (3) ◽  
pp. 365-378 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Anjali Nair ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
High Frequency Part ◽  
Spectral Shapes

Abstract. An understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters of the eastern Arabian Sea using the moored directional waverider buoy are examined to determine the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. Over an annual cycle for 31.15 % of the time, the peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz; the significant wave height is also relatively high (∼ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months, and it increases with an increase in significant wave height. There is not much interannual variation in the slope for swell-dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have a high level of influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the exponent of the high-frequency part of the wave spectrum is within the range of −4 to −3 during the monsoon period, the Donelan spectrum shows a better fit for the high-frequency part of the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

Gap-Filling and Predicting Wave Parameters Using Support Vector Regression Method

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maziar Golestani ◽  
Mostafa Zeinoddini
Keyword(s):  
Support Vector Regression ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Rational Design ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Support Vector ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Data Gaps

Knowledge of relevant oceanographic parameters is of utmost importance in the rational design of coastal structures and ports. Therefore, an accurate prediction of wave parameters is especially important for safety and economic reasons. Recently, statistical learning methods, such as Support Vector Regression (SVR) have been successfully employed by researchers in problems such as lake water level predictions, and significant wave height prediction. The current study reports potential application of a SVR approach to predict the wave spectra and significant wave height. Also the capability of the model to fill data gaps was tested using different approaches. Concurrent wind and wave records (standard meteorological and spectral density data) from 4 stations in 2003, 2007, 2008 and 2009 were used both for the training the SVR system and its verification. The choice of these four locations facilitated the comparison of model performances in different geographical areas. The SVR model was then used to obtain predictions for the wave spectra and also time series of wave parameters (separately for each station) such as its Hs and Tp from spectra and wind records. New approach was used to predict wave spectra comparing to similar studies. Reasonably well correlation was found between the predicted and measured wave parameters. The SVR model was first trained and tested using various methods for selecting training data. Also different values for SVM parameters (e.g. tolerance of termination criterion, cost, and gamma in kernel function) were tested. The best possible results were obtained using a Unix shell script (in Linux) which automatically implements different values for different input parameters and finds the best regression by calculating statistical scores like correlation of coefficient, RMSE, bias and scatter index. Finally for a better understanding of the results, Quantile-Quantile plots were produced. The results show that SVR can be successfully used for prediction of Hs and wave spectrum out of a series of wind and spectral wave parameters inputs. Also it was noticed that SVR is an efficient tool to be used when data gaps are present in the data.

Sea State Estimation Based on Ship Motions Measurements and Data Fusion

2013 ◽  
Author(s):  
Céline Drouet ◽  
Nicolas Cellier ◽  
Jérémie Raymond ◽  
Denis Martigny
Keyword(s):  
Data Fusion ◽  
State Estimation ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Ship Motions ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
X Band

In-service monitoring can help to increase safety of ships especially regarding the fatigue assessment. For this purpose, it is compulsory to know the environmental conditions encountered: wind, but also the full directional wave spectrum. During the EU TULCS project, a full scale measurements campaign has been conducted onboard the CMA-CGM 13200 TEU container ship Rigoletto. She has been instrumented to measure deformation of the ship as well as the sea state encountered during its trip. This paper will focus on the sea state estimation. Three systems have been installed to estimate the sea state encountered by the Rigoletto: An X-band radar from Ocean Waves with WAMOS® system and two altimetric wave radars from RADAC®. Nevertheless, the measured significant wave height can be disturbed by several external elements like bow waves, sprays, sea surface ripples, etc… Furthermore, ship motions are also measured and can provide another estimation of the significant wave height using a specific algorithm developed by DCNS Research for the TULCS project. As all those estimations are inherently different, it is necessary to make a fusion of those data to provide a single estimation (“best estimate”) of the significant wave height. This paper will present the data fusion process developed for TULCS and show some first validation results.

scholarly journals A Simple Method for Retrieving Significant Wave Height from Dopplerized X-Band Radar

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ruben Carrasco ◽  
Michael Streßer ◽  
Jochen Horstmann
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Doppler Velocity ◽  
Modulation Transfer ◽  
Simple Method ◽  
Backscatter Intensity ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
X Band ◽  
Variance Spectrum

Abstract. Retrieving spectral wave parameters such as the peak wave direction and wave period from marine radar backscatter intensity is very well developed. However, the retrieval of significant wave height is difficult because the radar image spectrum (a backscatter intensity variance spectrum) has to be transferred to a wave spectrum (a surface elevation variance spectrum) using a modulation transfer function (MTF) which requires extensive calibration for each individual radar setup. In contrast to the backscatter intensity, the Doppler velocity measured by a coherent radar is induced by the radial velocity of the surface scattering and its periodic component is mainly the contribution of surface waves. Therefore, the variance of the Doppler velocity can be utilized to retrieve the significant wave height. Analysing approximately 100 days of Doppler velocity measurements of a coherent on receive radar operating at X-band with vertical polarization in transmit and receive, a simple relation was derived and validated to retrieve significant wave heights. Comparison to wave measurements of a wave rider buoy as well as an acoustic wave and current profiler resulted in a root mean square error of 0.24 m with a bias of 0.08 m. Furthermore, the different sources of error are discussed and investigated.

scholarly journals Atmospheric Cold Front-Generated Waves in the Coastal Louisiana

2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (11) ◽  
pp. 900
Author(s):  
Yuhan Cao ◽  
Chunyan Li ◽  
Changming Dong
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Cold Front ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Low Frequency ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Cold Fronts ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Coastal Louisiana

Atmospheric cold front-generated waves play an important role in the air–sea interaction and coastal water and sediment transports. In-situ observations from two offshore stations are used to investigate variations of directional waves in the coastal Louisiana. Hourly time series of significant wave height and peak wave period are examined for data from 2004, except for the summer time between May and August, when cold fronts are infrequent and weak. The intra-seasonal scale variations in the wavefield are significantly affected by the atmospheric cold frontal events. The wave fields and directional wave spectra induced by four selected cold front passages over the coastal Louisiana are discussed. It is found that significant wave height generated by cold fronts coming from the west change more quickly than that by other passing cold fronts. The peak wave direction rotates clockwise during the cold front events. The variability of the directional wave spectrum shows that the largest spectral density is distributed at low frequency in the postfrontal phase associated with migrating cyclones (MC storms) and arctic surges (AS storms).

scholarly journals The Influence of Air–Sea Roughness, Sea Spray, and Storm Translation Speed on Waves in North Atlantic Storms

2008 ◽  
Vol 38 (4) ◽  
pp. 817-839 ◽  
Author(s):  
Weiqing Zhang ◽  
William Perrie
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Storm Track ◽  
Wave Drag ◽  
Sea Spray ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Translation Speed ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
The Impact

Abstract A coupled atmosphere–wave–sea spray model system is used to evaluate the impact of sea spray and wave drag on storm-generated waves, their height variations, and directional wave spectra in relation to the storm location and translation speed. Results suggest that the decrease or increase of significant wave height due to spray and wave drag is most significant in high-wind regions to the right of the storm track. These processes are modulations on the maximum-wave region and tend to occur several hours after the peak wind events, depending on the storm translation velocity. The translation speed of the storm is important. The directional variation between local winds and wind-generated waves within rapidly moving storms that outrun the waves is notably different from that of trapped waves, when the dominant waves’ group velocity approximates the storm translation speed. While wave drag and spray can increase or reduce the magnitudes of wind and significant wave height, their nondirectional formulations allow them to have little apparent effect on the directional wave spectra.

Analysis of the Geometric Constraints Employed in Constructal Design for Oscillating Water Column Devices Submitted to the Wave Spectrum through a Numerical Approach

2019 ◽  
Vol 390 ◽  
pp. 193-210
Author(s):  
Mateus das Neves Gomes ◽  
Matheus José de Deus ◽  
Elizaldo Domingues dos Santos ◽  
Liércio André Isoldi
Keyword(s):  
Water Column ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Fluid Dynamic ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Geometric Constraints ◽  
Oscillating Water Column ◽  
Incident Wavelength ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Constructal Design

This paper aims a numerical investigation about the fluid dynamic behavior of an oscillating water column (OWC) wave energy converter (WEC) into electrical energy. Constructal design is employed to perform a geometric evaluation of an OWC WEC submitted a Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectrum. The objective function is to maximize the energy conversion. The hydropneumatic chamber volume (VHC) and the total OWC volume (VT) are adopted as geometric constraints. In the first stage, the values are constant during the maximization process. However, in a second stage they are changed according to the constraint variation (CV). One of the goals is to analyze the influence of the choice of this geometric constraints value on the OWC performance in relation to the wave spectrum. For this purpose, are considered three different scenarios: 1)VHydis equal to the minimum incident wavelength (λmin), that is relative to the maximum frequency of the wave spectrum times the significant wave height (HS); 2)VHydis equal to the peak incident wavelength (λpeak), that is relative to peak frequency of the wave spectrum times the significant wave height (HS); and 3)VHydis equal to the maximum incident wavelength (λmax), that is relative to minimum frequency of the wave spectrum times the significant wave height (HS). To do so, constructal design is employed varying the degree of freedom (DOF)H1/L(ratio between the height and length of OWC chamber), while the others DOF’sH2/l(ratio between height and length of chimney) andH3(lip submergence), are kept fixed. It is employed a Pierson-Moskowitz wave spectrum with significant period (TS) equal to 7.5 s and significant wave height (HS) equal to 1.5 m. For the numerical solution it is used the computational fluid dynamic (CFD) code, based on the finite volume method (FVM). The multiphase volume of fluid (VOF) model is applied to tackle with the water-air interaction. The computational domain is represented by the OWC WEC coupled with the wave tank. The results showed that whenCV= 2.25 forλmaxand (H1/L)O= 0.2152 the highest average for power was obtained, nearly 18,000 W. While forλminand (H1/L)O= 0.2193 it was smaller than 1,000 W. Besides, it was obtained a theoretical recommendation about the geometric constraints employed for the constructal design application, aiming the maximization of the OWC energy conversion from the incident wave spectrum.

scholarly journals The wave spectrum in archipelagos

Ocean Science ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 15 (6) ◽  
pp. 1469-1487
Author(s):  
Jan-Victor Björkqvist ◽  
Heidi Pettersson ◽  
Kimmo K. Kahma
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Spectral Width ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Wide Frequency Range ◽  
Systematic Research ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Average Value ◽  
Starting Point

Abstract. Sea surface waves are important for marine safety and coastal engineering, but mapping the wave properties at complex shorelines, such as coastal archipelagos, is challenging. The wave spectrum, E(f), contains a majority of the information about the wave field, and its properties have been studied for decades. Nevertheless, any systematic research into the wave spectrum in archipelagos has not been made. In this paper we present wave buoy measurements from 14 locations in the Finnish archipelago. The shape of the wave spectrum showed a systematic transition from a single-peaked spectrum to a spectrum with a wide frequency range having almost constant energy. The exact shape also depended on the wind direction, since the fetch, island, and bottom conditions are not isotropic. The deviation from the traditional spectral form is strong enough to have a measurable effect on the definitions of the significant wave height. The relation between the two definitions in the middle of the archipelago was H1/3=0.881Hs, but the ratio varied with the spectral width (Hs was defined using the variance). At this same location the average value of the single highest wave, Hmax∕Hs, was only 1.58. A wider archipelago spectrum was also associated with lower confidence limits for the significant wave height compared to the open sea (6 % vs. 9 %). The challenges caused by the instability of the peak frequency for an archipelago spectrum are presented, and the mean frequency, weighted with E(f)4, is proposed as a compromise between stability and bias with respect to the peak frequency. The possibility of using the frequency and width parameters of this study as a starting point for a new analytical parameterisation of an archipelago type spectrum is discussed.

scholarly journals Waves off Gopalpur, northern Bay of Bengal during Cyclone Phailin

2014 ◽  
Vol 32 (9) ◽  
pp. 1073-1083 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. M. Amrutha ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar ◽  
T. R. Anoop ◽  
T. M. Balakrishnan Nair ◽  
A. Nherakkol ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Bay Of Bengal ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Statistical Parameters ◽  
Freak Wave ◽  
Maximum Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Before And After ◽  
Northern Bay Of Bengal

Abstract. The wave statistical parameters during Cyclone Phailin which crossed the northern Bay of Bengal are described based on the Directional Waverider buoy-measured wave data from 8 to 13 October 2013. On 12 October 2013, the cyclone passed within 70 km of the Waverider buoy location with a wind speed of 59.2 m s−1 (115 knots), and during this period, a maximum significant wave height of 7.3 m and a maximum wave height of 13.5 m were measured at 50 m water depth. Eight freak wave events are observed during the study period. The ratio of the maximum wave height to significant wave height recorded is found to be higher than the theoretical value and the ratio of the crest height to wave height during the cyclone was 0.6 to 0.7. The characteristics of the wave spectra before and after the cyclone is studied and found that the high-frequency face of the wave spectrum is proportional to f−3 before the cyclone and is between f−4 and f−5 during the cyclone period.

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