scholarly journals Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar on the western coast of India

Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (3) ◽  
pp. 365-378 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Anjali Nair ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
High Frequency Part ◽  
Spectral Shapes

Abstract. An understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters of the eastern Arabian Sea using the moored directional waverider buoy are examined to determine the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. Over an annual cycle for 31.15 % of the time, the peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz; the significant wave height is also relatively high (∼ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months, and it increases with an increase in significant wave height. There is not much interannual variation in the slope for swell-dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have a high level of influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the exponent of the high-frequency part of the wave spectrum is within the range of −4 to −3 during the monsoon period, the Donelan spectrum shows a better fit for the high-frequency part of the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

scholarly journals Wave spectral shapes in the coastal waters based on measured data off Karwar, west coast of India

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Anjali Nair ◽  
V. Sanil Kumar
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
High Frequency ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Temporal Variations ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Monsoon Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Spectral Shapes

Abstract. Understanding of the wave spectral shapes is of primary importance for the design of marine facilities. In this paper, the wave spectra collected from January 2011 to December 2015 in the coastal waters are examined to know the temporal variations in the wave spectral shape. For 31.15 % of the time, peak frequency is between 0.08 and 0.10 Hz and the significant wave height is also relatively high (~ 1.55 m) for waves in this class. The slope of the high-frequency tail of the monthly average wave spectra is high during the Indian summer monsoon period (June–September) compared to other months and it increases with increase in significant wave height. There is no much interannual variation in slope for swell dominated spectra during the monsoon, while in the non-monsoon period when wind-seas have much influence, the slope varies significantly. Since the high-frequency slope of the wave spectrum is within the range 3–4 during the monsoon period, Donelan spectrum shows better fit for the wave spectra in monsoon months compared to other months.

Gap-Filling and Predicting Wave Parameters Using Support Vector Regression Method

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Maziar Golestani ◽  
Mostafa Zeinoddini
Keyword(s):  
Support Vector Regression ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Rational Design ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Support Vector ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Data Gaps

Knowledge of relevant oceanographic parameters is of utmost importance in the rational design of coastal structures and ports. Therefore, an accurate prediction of wave parameters is especially important for safety and economic reasons. Recently, statistical learning methods, such as Support Vector Regression (SVR) have been successfully employed by researchers in problems such as lake water level predictions, and significant wave height prediction. The current study reports potential application of a SVR approach to predict the wave spectra and significant wave height. Also the capability of the model to fill data gaps was tested using different approaches. Concurrent wind and wave records (standard meteorological and spectral density data) from 4 stations in 2003, 2007, 2008 and 2009 were used both for the training the SVR system and its verification. The choice of these four locations facilitated the comparison of model performances in different geographical areas. The SVR model was then used to obtain predictions for the wave spectra and also time series of wave parameters (separately for each station) such as its Hs and Tp from spectra and wind records. New approach was used to predict wave spectra comparing to similar studies. Reasonably well correlation was found between the predicted and measured wave parameters. The SVR model was first trained and tested using various methods for selecting training data. Also different values for SVM parameters (e.g. tolerance of termination criterion, cost, and gamma in kernel function) were tested. The best possible results were obtained using a Unix shell script (in Linux) which automatically implements different values for different input parameters and finds the best regression by calculating statistical scores like correlation of coefficient, RMSE, bias and scatter index. Finally for a better understanding of the results, Quantile-Quantile plots were produced. The results show that SVR can be successfully used for prediction of Hs and wave spectrum out of a series of wind and spectral wave parameters inputs. Also it was noticed that SVR is an efficient tool to be used when data gaps are present in the data.

scholarly journals The Influence of Air–Sea Roughness, Sea Spray, and Storm Translation Speed on Waves in North Atlantic Storms

2008 ◽  
Vol 38 (4) ◽  
pp. 817-839 ◽  
Author(s):  
Weiqing Zhang ◽  
William Perrie
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Storm Track ◽  
Wave Drag ◽  
Sea Spray ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Translation Speed ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
The Impact

Abstract A coupled atmosphere–wave–sea spray model system is used to evaluate the impact of sea spray and wave drag on storm-generated waves, their height variations, and directional wave spectra in relation to the storm location and translation speed. Results suggest that the decrease or increase of significant wave height due to spray and wave drag is most significant in high-wind regions to the right of the storm track. These processes are modulations on the maximum-wave region and tend to occur several hours after the peak wind events, depending on the storm translation velocity. The translation speed of the storm is important. The directional variation between local winds and wind-generated waves within rapidly moving storms that outrun the waves is notably different from that of trapped waves, when the dominant waves’ group velocity approximates the storm translation speed. While wave drag and spray can increase or reduce the magnitudes of wind and significant wave height, their nondirectional formulations allow them to have little apparent effect on the directional wave spectra.

Wind and Wave Climate in Open Sea and Coastal Waters

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Coastal Waters ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Weather Conditions ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
The North ◽  
Open Sea ◽  
Adverse Weather

Wind and wave climate is much region and location dependent, affected by local properties of ocean environment. For safety of world-wide sailing ships knowledge about wind and wave climate is important, not only for open sea, but also in coastal areas. Wind and waves impact ship design, marine operations and they challenge ability of ships to maintain manoeuvrability in sea states. Their description differs in open sea and coastal waters, and recently it has got an attention due to the issue of the 2013 Interim Guidelines by IMO where adverse weather conditions to be used in assessment of ship manoeuvrability have been proposed. The present study shows differences between open sea and coastal water wind and wave climate using hindcast data in the analysis. The description of open sea metocean conditions is limited to the North Atlantic while European waters are used as representative for coastal regions. Correlations between wind speed and significant wave height as well as significant wave height and spectral peak period are established and compare with the ones suggested by the 2013 Interim Guidelines. Challenges in providing metocean description for assessment of ship manoeuvrability and uncertainties related to it are discussed.

On the Performance of the MPI Algorithm for the Retrieval of Significant Wave Height From ERS Synthetic Aperture Radar

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nelson Violante-Carvalho ◽  
Ian S. Robinson
Keyword(s):  
Synthetic Aperture Radar ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Synthetic Aperture ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Sar Images ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
Better Than ◽  
Aperture Radar

Spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) is to date the only source of two dimensional directional wave spectra with continuous and global coverage when operated in the so-called SAR Wave Mode (SWM). Since the launch in 1991 of the first European Remote Sensing Satellite ERS-1 and more recently with ENVISAT millions of SWM imagettes containing detailed spectral information are now available in quasi-real time. This huge amount of directional wave data has opened up many exciting possibilities for the improvement of our knowledge of the dynamics of ocean waves. However the retrieval of wave spectra from SAR images is not a trivial exercise due to the nonlinearities involved in the mapping mechanism. The Max-Planck Institut (MPI) scheme was the first ever proposed and most widely used algorithm to retrieve directional wave spectra from SAR images. In this work significant wave height retrieved from SAR images using the MPI scheme are compared against one year of directional buoy measurements obtained in deep water and against WAM spectra. Our results show that for periods shorter than 12 seconds the WAM model performs better than the MPI method, even considering the fact that the model is used as first guess to the MPI scheme. However, for periods longer than 12 seconds (the part of the spectrum directly observed by SAR) the MPI method performs better than WAM. This is in contrast with the results obtained by Voorrips et al. (2001), who found that the performance of the WAM model is superior even when only the low wavenumber part of the spectrum is considered.

Study on Wave Spectra in South Coastal Waters of Jiangsu

2012 ◽  
Vol 212-213 ◽  
pp. 193-200 ◽  
Author(s):  
Wei Bin Feng ◽  
Bin Yang ◽  
Hai Jing Cao ◽  
Xing Ye Ni
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Spectral Characteristics ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Spectral Peak ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Spectral Parameters ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Better Than

The paper examined the spectral characteristics of shallow water waves, which was based on the wave data collected along the south coast of Jiangsu. It proposes a tentative spectra model which can work better than Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)spectra. Both of the value of tentative spectral parameters (α and γ) increase with significant wave height and spectral peak frequency. According to a regression analysis, empirical equations are achieved, which is related to the parameters with significant wave height and spectral peak frequency. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by tentative spectra, and the fitting results in high-frequency tail of tentative spectra are better than that of JONSWAP spectrum with modified parameters.

scholarly journals Assimilation of Directional Wave Spectra in the Wave Model WAM: An Impact Study from Synthetic Observations in Preparation for the SWIMSAT Satellite Mission

2006 ◽  
Vol 23 (3) ◽  
pp. 448-463 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lotfi Aouf ◽  
Jean-Michel Lefèvre ◽  
Danièle Hauser
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Spectral Information ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Satellite Mission ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Assimilation Scheme

Abstract Within the framework of the Surface Waves Investigation and Monitoring from Satellite mission (SWIMSAT) proposed to the European Space Agency, an assimilation scheme has been implemented in the Wave Model (WAM) in order to estimate the impact of spectral information on wave prediction. The scheme uses an optimal interpolation and the “spectral partitioning” principle. The synthetic wave spectra are located along a SWIMSAT orbit track and are assimilated in a 4-day-period simulation. Random errors are included to simulate the uncertainties of SWIMSAT instrumentation. The sensitivity of the scheme to background and observational errors and the correlation length is examined. The assimilation impact is investigated for two cases of moderate and large errors of the first guess. The results show that the assimilation scheme works correctly and the rms errors of significant wave height, mean period, and direction are significantly reduced for both periods of analysis and forecast. The impact on significant wave height is noticeable during the period of analysis and stays efficient for 2-day forecasts. For a large error in the first guess, the impact increases and remains significant for 3-day forecasts. Statistical analysis of mean wave parameters clearly shows that the use of spectral information yields a better estimate of wave frequency, direction, and low-frequency wave height in comparison with the results based upon assimilation of wave heights only. However, total significant wave height is less sensitive to the addition of spectral information in the assimilation scheme. The use of correlation length depending on the latitude of grid points leads to a better spread of incremental observations and, hence, to better skills in terms of the rms errors of mean wave parameters. The use of several wavelength cutoffs concerning the SWIMSAT synthetic wave spectra suggests that the “assimilation index” of mean wave parameters decreases with the increasing wavelength cutoff.

scholarly journals NEARSHORE WAVE SPECTRA MEASURED DURING HURRICANE DAVID

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 5
Author(s):  
Michel K. Ochi ◽  
Ming-Hsing Chiu
Keyword(s):  
United States ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
The United States ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Stages Of Growth

This paper presents the results of an analysis carried out on wave spectra measured at three nearshore sites along the United States Florida coast when Hurricane DAVID passed these sites in 1979. Included are (a) the variability of the shapes of wave spectra during the stages of growth and decay of the hurricane-generated seas, (b) the presentation of spectra according to various spectral formulations, and (c) a comparison between spectra measured at the coastal sites and those measured in deep water for the same severity (significant wave height) of hurricane-generated seas.

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