On the excitation of edge waves on beaches

1977 ◽  
Vol 79 (2) ◽  
pp. 273-287 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. A. Minzoni ◽  
G. B. Whitham
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Shallow Water Approximation ◽  
Complete Discussion ◽  
Standing Edge Waves

The excitation of standing edge waves of frequency ½ω by a normally incident wave train of frequency ω has been discussed previously (Guza & Davis 1974; Guza & Inman 1975; Guza & Bowen 1976) on the basis of shallow-water theory. Here the problem is formulated in the full water-wave theory without making the shallow-water approximation and solved for beach angles β = π/2N, where N is an integer. The work confirms the shallow-water results in the limit N [Gt ] 1, shows the effect of larger beach angles and allows a more complete discussion of some aspects of the problem.

Finite amplitude effects in free and forced edge waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 83 (3) ◽  
pp. 463-479 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nicole Rockliff
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Side Wall ◽  
Free Edge ◽  
Finite Amplitude ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Standing Edge Waves

The effect of non-linearity on standing edge waves is studied on the basis of shallow water theory. Four problems are considered: the decay of free edge waves and the forcing of edge waves by an incident wave of double the frequency, a synchronous incident wave and by a side-wall wavemaker. Hysteresis effects are predicted for all types of forcing.

Mechanisms for the generation of edge waves over a sloping beach

1988 ◽  
Vol 186 ◽  
pp. 379-391 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. V. Evans
Keyword(s):  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Dominant Mode ◽  
Mode Shapes ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Linear Water Wave Theory ◽  
Pressure Distributions ◽  
Sloping Beach ◽  
Standing Edge Waves

Two mechanisms for the generation of standing edge waves over a sloping beach are described using classical linear water-wave theory. The first is an extension of the result of Yih (1984) to a class of localized bottom protrusions on a sloping beach in the presence of a longshore current. The second is a class of longshore surface-pressure distributions over a beach. In both cases it is shown that Ursell-type standing edge-wave modes can be generated in an appropriate frame of reference. Typical curves of the mode shapes are presented and it is shown how in certain circumstances the dominant mode is not the lowest.

scholarly journals Generation and Propagation of Tsunami by a Moving Realistic Curvilinear Slide Shape with Variable Velocities in Linearized Shallow-Water Wave Theory

Engineering ◽  
2010 ◽  
Vol 02 (07) ◽  
pp. 529-549 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hossam Shawky Hassan ◽  
Khaled Tawfik Ramadan ◽  
Sarwat Nageeb Hanna
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Shallow Water Wave

scholarly journals MEASUREMENT OF INCIDENT WAVE HEIGHT IN COMPOSITE WAVE TRAINS

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 21
Author(s):  
Ake Sandstrom
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Wave Train ◽  
Wave Length ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Arithmetic Mean ◽  
Reflected Waves ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Trains ◽  
Composite Wave

A method is proposed for measurement of the incident wave height in a composite wave train. The composite wave train is assumed to consist of a superposition of regular incident and reflected waves with the same wave period. An approximate value of the incident wave height is obtained as the arithmetic mean of the wave heights measured "by two gauges separated a quarter of a wave length. The accuracy of the method in relation to the location of the gauges and the wave parameters is investigated using linear and second order wave theory. Results of the calculations are presented in diagrams.

scholarly journals Run-up of nonlinear monochromatic wave on a plane beach in presence of a tide

2019 ◽  
Vol 59 (4) ◽  
pp. 529-532
Author(s):  
I. I. Didenkulova ◽  
E. N. Pelinovsky
Keyword(s):  
Exact Solution ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Nonlinear Problem ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Wave Amplitude ◽  
Monochromatic Wave ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Long Wave ◽  
Run Up

The nonlinear problem of long wave run-up on a plane beach in a presence of a tide is solved within the shallow water theory using the Carrier-Greenspan approach. The exact solution of the nonlinear problem for wave run-up height is found as a function of the incident wave amplitude. Influence of tide on characteristics of wave run-up on a beach is studied.

scholarly journals New analytical Solutions of (3+1)-dimensional Shallow Water Wave equation (SWW)

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (2) ◽  
pp. 3036-3038
Author(s):  
Anjali Verma, Et. al.
Keyword(s):  
Wave Equation ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Analytical Solutions ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Shallow Water Wave ◽  
Kudryashov Method ◽  
Calculation Software

In this paper, we have obtained new analytical solutions of (3+1)-dimensional SWW equation with Kudryashov method. The study of Shallow water wave equation plays an imperative role in wave theory. For calculation software Maple is used. The solutions obtained by this method are new.  

scholarly journals Nonlinear edge waves and shallow-water theory

1976 ◽  
Vol 74 (2) ◽  
pp. 369-374 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. A. Minzoni
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Nonlinear Theory ◽  
Qualitative Agreement ◽  
Depth Distribution ◽  
Nonlinear Effects ◽  
Edge Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Theory ◽  
Water Edge ◽  
Constant Slope

Nonlinear effects are considered for shallow-water edge waves on beaches with a general depth distribution. The case of uniform depth away from the shoreline is considered in detail. It is shown that the results obtained are in qualitative agreement with those obtained by Whitham (1976) using the full nonlinear theory for a beach of constant slope.

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