Suspended Sediment Concentration in the Surf Zone

Author(s):  
Makoto Ifuku ◽  
Tadao Kakinuma
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1300
Author(s):  
Troels Aagaard ◽  
Joost Brinkkemper ◽  
Drude F. Christensen ◽  
Michael G. Hughes ◽  
Gerben Ruessink

The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport of sand by waves during post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment transport models employ wave-averaged terms, and/or the instantaneous cross-shore velocity signal, but the models often fail in predictions of the onshore-directed transport rates. An important reason is that they rarely consider the phase relationships between wave orbital velocity and the suspended sediment concentration. This relationship depends on the intra-wave structure of the bed shear stress and hence on the timing and magnitude of turbulence production in the water column. This paper provides an up-to-date review of recent experimental advances on intra-wave turbulence characteristics, sediment mobilization, and suspended sediment transport in laboratory and natural surf zones. Experimental results generally show that peaks in the suspended sediment concentration are shifted forward on the wave phase with increasing turbulence levels and instantaneous near-bed sediment concentration scales with instantaneous turbulent kinetic energy. The magnitude and intra-wave phase of turbulence production and sediment concentration are shown to depend on wave (breaker) type, seabed configuration, and relative wave height, which opens up the possibility of more robust predictions of transport rates for different wave and beach conditions.


2020 ◽  
Vol 15 ◽  

In this paper, we simulate the sea bottom modifications produced by the presence of a T-head groin. We present a simulation model of sea bottom modifications composed of two sub-models: a two-dimensional phase-resolving model that simulate the variation of the fluid dynamic variables inside the wave; a second sub-model to simulate the sea bottom modifications, in which the suspended sediment concentration is calculated by the wave-averaged advection-diffusion equation. The fluid motion equation and the concentration equation are expressed in a new contravariant formulation. The velocity fields from deep water up to just seaward of the surf-zone are simulated by a new integral contravariant form of the Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equations. The new integral form of the proposed continuity equation does not contain the dispersive term. The Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations, expressed in an integral contravariant form, are solved in order to simulate the breaking wave propagation. The momentum equation, integrated over the turbulent boundary layer, is solved to calculate the near-bed instantaneous flow velocity and the intra-wave hydrodynamic quantities. Starting from the contravariant formulation of the advection–diffusion equation for the suspended sediment concentration, it is possible to calculate the sea bottom modification. The advective sediment transport terms in the advection-diffusion equation are formulated according to a quasi-three-dimensional approach


1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 123 ◽  
Author(s):  
Makoto Ifuku ◽  
Tadao Kakinuma

The water particle velocity,the pressure fluctuation and suspended sediment concentration near the bottom were measured in the surf zone. Data were obtained on the mean sediment concentration, phase lag between onshore velocity and suspended sediment concentration. The near-bottom velocity distributions under finite amplitude waves were calculated on the basis of the turbulent boundary layer theory by using timeindependent/ dependent eddy viscosities and Prandtl mixing length theory. The concentrations at reference level were estimated from the Kalkanis' theory using the velocity value at the top of a sand particle and the distributions of suspended sediment concentration were calculated on the basis of the turbulent diffusion theory by using time-independent/ dependent diffusion coefficients. The computed mean values of the suspended sediment concentration agree with those observed by Noda, the authors and Nielsen and those measured by Deigaard et al.. The computed phase lag agrees well with observed by the authors.


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