Nonlinear Wave Crest Distribution on a Vertical Breakwater

Author(s):  
Valentina Laface ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice Arena ◽  
Ioannis A. Kougioumtzoglou ◽  
Alessandra Romolo

The paper addresses the problem of deriving the nonlinear, up to the second order, crest wave height probability distribution in front of a vertical wall under the assumption of finite spectral bandwidth, finite water depth and long-crested waves. The distribution is derived by relying on the Quasi-Deterministic representation of the free surface elevation in front of the vertical wall. The theoretical results are compared against experimental data obtained by utilizing a compressive sensing algorithm for reconstructing the free surface elevation in front of the wall. The reconstruction is pursued by starting from recorded wave pressure time histories obtained by utilizing a row of pressure transducers located at various levels. The comparison shows that there is an excellent agreement between the proposed distribution and the experimental data and confirm the deviation of the crest height distribution from the Rayleigh one.

Author(s):  
Quan Zhou ◽  
Ming Liu ◽  
Heather Peng ◽  
Wei Qiu

There are challenges in the prediction of low-frequency load and especially the resonant free surface elevation between two bodies in close proximity. Most of the linear potential-flow based seakeeping programs currently used by the industry over-predict the free surface elevation between the vessels/bodies and hence the low-frequency loadings on the hulls. Various methods, such as the lid technique, have been developed to suppress the unrealistic values of low-frequency forces by introducing artificial damping coefficients. However, without the experimental data, it is challenging to specify the coefficients. This paper presents the experimental studies of motions of two bodies with various gaps and the wave elevations between bodies. Model tests were performed at the towing tank of Memorial University. The objective was to provide benchmark data for further numerical studies of the viscous effect on the free surface predictions. The experimental data were compared with numerical solutions based on potential flow methods. The effect of tank walls were examined. Preliminary uncertainty analysis was also carried out.


2018 ◽  
Vol 144 (5) ◽  
pp. 04018010 ◽  
Author(s):  
Valentina Laface ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Alessandra Romolo ◽  
Felice Arena ◽  
Ioannis A. Kougioumtzoglou

2010 ◽  
Vol 650 ◽  
pp. 251-285 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. RENZI ◽  
P. SAMMARCO

An analytical forced two-horizontal-dimension model is derived to investigate landslide tsunamis propagating around a conical island lying on a flat continental platform. Separation of variables and Laplace transform are used to obtain the free-surface elevation in the whole domain and the runup at the shoreline in terms of confluent Heun functions. The main properties of these functions and their asymptotic behaviour for large parameters are investigated. Expression of the transient leading wave travelling offshore is also derived. The distinguishing physical features of landslide tsunamis propagating in a round geometry are then pointed out and compared with those of landslide tsunamis propagating along a straight coast. Analytical results satisfactorily agree with available experimental data.


Author(s):  
João Pessoa ◽  
Carl Trygve Stansberg ◽  
Nuno Fonseca ◽  
Manuel Laranjinha

The region over the pontoons, especially in the vicinity of columns, is typically a critical area in terms of upwell when analyzing the air gap of semisubmersible platforms. There is indication that numerical computations using potential flow theory may in some cases overestimate the free surface elevation in this region. To assess the possibility, experimental data is compared to numerical computations in three locations under the deck box: one location over the pontoons, one location in the vicinity of the pontoons and one location between the pontoons. The data was acquired in FORCE’s towing tank facility, in Lyngby, Denmark, by relative wave gauges fixed to the moored semisubmersible platform. The experimental data is treated in order to remove the global motions from the upwell signal. The resulting free surface elevation, which includes contributions from incident, diffracted and radiated wave fields, is compared to the disturbed free surface elevation calculated with linear diffraction-radiation theory. The study is initially conducted in irregular waves, where simulation statistics in 4 different sea states are compared to the experiments and the observed nonlinear effects are discussed. The extreme crest heights are compared with non-Gaussian models as defined in DNVGL-OTG-13 and as defined by Stansberg (2014). The study is then extended to regular waves. In a first stage we estimate the first harmonic components by removing all higher order effects, and compare the results to linear theory. For these band-pass filtered signals it is shown that results calculated with linear theory tend to overestimate free surface elevation in the location over the pontoons, but seem to correlate well with the experiments in the other locations. In a second stage the experimental crest heights are compared with non-linear models as defined in DNVGL-OTG-13 and as defined by Stansberg (2014). It is shown in this case study that the maximum free surface elevation over the pontoons in front of upwave columns can be severely overestimated if calculated with the current state of the art numerical models, which are based on linear diffraction-radiation theory. We explain the observed discrepancy in this case primarily by a very high linear predicted amplification induced by the shallow pontoon, with resulting high local steepness leading to local breaking and dissipation. Therefore, such pontoon effects should be addressed in semisubmersible platform air-gap analysis. The work also highlights the importance of having good experimental data available when preforming such analysis.


Author(s):  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Mayilvahanan Alagan Chella ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Øivind Asgeir Arntsen

For the stability of offshore structures, such as offshore wind foundations, extreme wave conditions need to be taken into account. Waves from extreme events are critical from the design perspective. In a numerical wave tank, extreme waves can be modeled using focused waves. Here, linear waves are generated from a wave spectrum. The wave crests of the generated waves coincide at a preselected location and time. Focused wave generation is implemented in the numerical wave tank module of REEF3D, which has been extensively and successfully tested for various wave hydrodynamics and wave–structure interaction problems in particular and for free surface flows in general. The open-source computational fluid dynamics (CFD) code REEF3D solves the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations on a staggered Cartesian grid. Higher order numerical schemes are used for time and spatial discretization. For the interface capturing, the level set method is selected. In order to test the generated waves, the time series of the free surface elevation are compared with experimental benchmark cases. The numerically simulated free surface elevation shows good agreement with experimental data. In further computations, the impact of the focused waves on a vertical circular cylinder is investigated. A breaking focused wave is simulated and the associated kinematics is investigated. Free surface flow features during the interaction of nonbreaking focused waves with a cylinder and during the breaking process of a focused wave are also investigated along with the numerically captured free surface.


Author(s):  
Kévin Martins ◽  
Philippe Bonneton ◽  
David Lannes ◽  
Hervé Michallet

AbstractThe inability of the linear wave dispersion relation to characterize the dispersive properties of non-linear shoaling and breaking waves in the nearshore has long been recognised. Yet, it remains widely used with linear wave theory to convert between sub-surface pressure, wave orbital velocities and the free surface elevation associated with non-linear nearshore waves. Here, we present a non-linear fully dispersive method for reconstructing the free surface elevation from sub-surface hydrodynamic measurements. This reconstruction requires knowledge of the dispersive properties of the wave field through the dominant wavenumbers magnitude κ, representative in an energy-averaged sense of a mixed sea-state composed of both free and forced components. The present approach is effective starting from intermediate water depths - where non-linear interactions between triads intensify - up to the surf zone, where most wave components are forced and travel approximately at the speed of non-dispersive shallow-water waves. In laboratory conditions, where measurements of κ are available, the non-linear fully dispersive method successfully reconstructs sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies in diverse non-linear and dispersive conditions. In the field, we investigate the potential of a reconstruction that uses a Boussinesq approximation of κ, since such measurements are generally lacking. Overall, the proposed approach offers great potential for collecting more accurate measurements under storm conditions, both in terms of sea-surface energy levels at high frequencies and wave-by-wave statistics (e.g. wave extrema). Through its control on the efficiency of non-linear energy transfers between triads, the spectral bandwidth is shown to greatly influence non-linear effects in the transfer functions between sub-surface hydrodynamics and the sea-surface elevation.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 373-390
Author(s):  
Lokenath Debnath ◽  
Uma Basu

A theory is presented of the generation and propagation of the two and the three dimensional tsunamis in a shallow running ocean due to the action of an arbitrary ocean floor or ocean surface disturbance. Integral solutions for both two and three dimensional problems are obtained by using the generalized Fourier and Laplace transforms. An asymptotic analysis is carried out for the investigation of the principal features of the free surface elevation. It is found that the propagation of the tsunamis depends on the relative magnitude of the given speed of the running ocean and the wave speed of the shallow ocean. When the speed of the running ocean is less than the speed of the shallow ocean wave, both the two and the three dimensional free surface elevation represent the generation and propagation of surface waves which decay asymptotically ast−12for the two dimensional case and ast−1for the three dimensional tsunamis. Several important features of the solution are discussed in some detail. As an application of the general theory, some physically realistic ocean floor disturbances are included in this paper.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ting Cui ◽  
Arun Kamath ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Lihao Yuan ◽  
Duanfeng Han ◽  
...  

Abstract The correct estimation of wave loading on a cylinder in a cylinder group under different impact scenarios is essential to determine the structural safety of coastal and offshore structures. This scenario differs from the interaction of waves with a single cylinder but not a lot of studies focus on cylinder groups under different arrangements. In this study, the interaction between plunging breaking waves and cylinder groups in deep water is investigated using the two-phase flow model in REEF3D, an open-source computational fluid dynamics program. The Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equation with the two equation k–Ω turbulence model is adopted to resolve the numerical wave tank, with free surface calculated using the level set method. In this study, focused waves in deep water were modeled with a fixed wave steepness method. Wave breaking occurs when the steepness of the wave crest front satisfies the breaking criteria. The model is validated by comparing the numerical wave forces and free surface elevation with measurements from experiments. The computational results show fairly good agreement with experimental data for both free surface elevation and wave forces. Four cases are simulated to investigate the interaction of breaking waves with a cylinder group with different relative distance, number of cylinders and arrangement. Results show that breaking wave forces on the upstream cylinder are smaller than on a single cylinder with a relative distance of one cylinder diameter. The wave forces on cylinders in the pile group are effected by the relative distance between cylinders. The staggered arrangement has a significant influence on the wave forces on the first and second cylinder. The interaction inside a cylinder group mostly happens between the neighbouring cylinders. These interactions are also effected by the relative distance and the numbers of the neighbouring cylinders.


Uniqueness and solvability theorems are proved for a well-posed formulation of the two-dimensional Neumann-Kelvin problem (the modified Neumann-Kelvin problem) in the case, when a body is partly immersed in a supercritical stream. Uniqueness is provided by two supplementary conditions which prescribe (i) additional flux at infinity downstream due to presence of body and (ii) a linear relation between the free-surface elevation at stern point and the velocity circulation along wetted contour. Two versions of source method are developed to find a solution. The first version is simpler, but it fails for some irregular values of the body’s velocity. In the second ver­sion complex sources’ strengths are used, avoiding irregular values and establishing the unique existence of solutions.


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