Numerical Investigation on the Rogue Wave Occurrence in Crossing Wave Fields

Author(s):  
Shuai Liu ◽  
Xinshu Zhang ◽  
Xingyu Song ◽  
Ke Chen

Abstract A series of directly numerical simulations of potential Euler equation have been performed using high-order spectral (HOS) method, to investigate the nonlinear wave statistics and the probability of rogue wave occurrence in crossing sea states. Several typical crossing sea states in deep water with different wave steepness are chosen for the computations. The ensemble statistical properties for those crossing waves are measured, including the temporal evolution of directional and omnidirectional wave spectra, exceedance probability of wave crest amplitude, as well as the kurtosis and skewness of free surface elevations. Particular attention is paid to the correlation between kurtosis and rogue wave occurrence. Our numerical results suggest that the global wave steepness plays a significant role in the statistical properties of crossing seas. Results also show the dependence of rogue wave occurrence probability on the kurtosis of free surface elevations.

2002 ◽  
Vol 46 (03) ◽  
pp. 186-200 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pierre C. Sames ◽  
Delphine Marcouly ◽  
Thomas E. Schellin

To validate an existing finite volume computational method, featuring a novel scheme to capture the temporal evolution of the free surface, fluid motions in partially filled tanks were simulated. The purpose was to compare computational and experimental results for test cases where measurements were available. Investigations comprised sloshing in a rectangular tank with a baffle at 60% filling level and in a cylindrical tank at 50% filling level. The numerical study started with examining effects of systematic grid refinement and concluded with examining effects of three-dimensionality and effects of variation of excitation period and amplitude. Predicted time traces of pressures and forces compared favorably with measurements.


Author(s):  
Valentina Laface ◽  
Giovanni Malara ◽  
Felice Arena ◽  
Ioannis A. Kougioumtzoglou ◽  
Alessandra Romolo

The paper addresses the problem of deriving the nonlinear, up to the second order, crest wave height probability distribution in front of a vertical wall under the assumption of finite spectral bandwidth, finite water depth and long-crested waves. The distribution is derived by relying on the Quasi-Deterministic representation of the free surface elevation in front of the vertical wall. The theoretical results are compared against experimental data obtained by utilizing a compressive sensing algorithm for reconstructing the free surface elevation in front of the wall. The reconstruction is pursued by starting from recorded wave pressure time histories obtained by utilizing a row of pressure transducers located at various levels. The comparison shows that there is an excellent agreement between the proposed distribution and the experimental data and confirm the deviation of the crest height distribution from the Rayleigh one.


Nonlinearity ◽  
2011 ◽  
Vol 24 (11) ◽  
pp. R67-R87 ◽  
Author(s):  
L H Ying ◽  
Z Zhuang ◽  
E J Heller ◽  
L Kaplan

2005 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 671-689 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. Chalikov

Abstract. A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D potential periodic surface waves. The method is based on a nonstationary conformal surface-following coordinate transformation; this approach reduces the principal equations of potential waves to two simple evolutionary equations for the elevation and the velocity potential on the surface. The numerical scheme is based on a Fourier transform method. High accuracy was confirmed by validation of the nonstationary model against known solutions, and by comparison between the results obtained with different resolutions in the horizontal. The scheme allows reproduction of the propagation of steep Stokes waves for thousands of periods with very high accuracy. The method here developed is applied to simulation of the evolution of wave fields with large number of modes for many periods of dominant waves. The statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave fields for waves of different steepness were investigated: spectra, curtosis and skewness, dispersion relation, life time. The prime result is that wave field may be presented as a superposition of linear waves is valid only for small amplitudes. It is shown as well, that nonlinear wave fields are rather a superposition of Stokes waves not linear waves. Potential flow, free surface, conformal mapping, numerical modeling of waves, gravity waves, Stokes waves, breaking waves, freak waves, wind-wave interaction.


Author(s):  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Weizhi Wang ◽  
Csaba Pakozdi ◽  
Arun Kamath

Abstract In situations where the calculation of ocean wave propagation and impact on structures are required, fast numerical solvers are desired in order to find relevant wave events. Computational fluid dynamics (CFD)-based numerical wave tanks (NWTs) emphasize on the hydrodynamic details such as fluid–structure interaction, which make them less ideal for the event identification due to the large computational resources involved. Therefore, a computationally efficient numerical wave model is needed to identify the events both for offshore deep-water wave fields and coastal wave fields where the bathymetry and coastline variations have strong impact on wave propagation. In the current paper, a new numerical wave model is represented that solves the Laplace equation for the flow potential and the nonlinear kinematic and dynamics free surface boundary conditions. This approach requires reduced computational resources compared to CFD-based NWTs. The resulting fully nonlinear potential flow solver REEF3D::FNPF uses a σ-coordinate grid for the computations. This allows the grid to follow the irregular bottom variation with great flexibility. The free surface boundary conditions are discretized using fifth-order weighted essentially non-oscillatory (WENO) finite difference methods and the third-order total variation diminishing (TVD) Runge–Kutta scheme for time stepping. The Laplace equation for the potential is solved with Hypre’s stabilized bi-conjugated gradient solver preconditioned with geometric multi-grid. REEF3D::FNPF is fully parallelized following the domain decomposition strategy and the message passing interface (MPI) communication protocol. The numerical results agree well with the experimental measurements in all tested cases and the model proves to be efficient and accurate for both offshore and coastal conditions.


Author(s):  
Marc Prevosto ◽  
Geoerge Z. Forristall

The analysis phase of the Wave Crest Sensor Intercomparison Study (WACSIS) focussed on the interpretation of the wave data collected by the project during the winter of 1997–98. Many aspects of wave statistics have been studied, but the main emphasis has been on crest height distributions, and recommendations for crest heights to be used in air gap calculations. In this paper we first describe comparisons of the crest height distributions derived from the sensors (radars, wave staffs, laser) and from simulations based on 3D second order irregular wave models. These comparisons permit us to make conclusions on the quality of these models and to qualify the ability of some sensors to measure the crest heights accurately. In the second part two new parametric models of the crest height distributions are discussed and their superiority to standard parametric models is demonstrated.


2014 ◽  
Vol 14 (6) ◽  
pp. 1407-1415 ◽  
Author(s):  
E. M. Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
L. Fernandez ◽  
J. M. Lefèvre ◽  
J. Monbaliu ◽  
A. Toffoli

Abstract. A coupling of a spectral wave model with a nonlinear phase-resolving model is used to reconstruct the evolution of wave statistics during a storm crossing the North Sea on 8–9 November 2007. During this storm a rogue wave (named the Andrea wave) was recorded at the Ekofisk field. The wave has characteristics comparable to the well-known New Year wave measured by Statoil at the Draupner platform 1 January 1995. Hindcast data of the storm at the nearest grid point to the Ekofisk field are here applied as input to calculate the evolution of random realizations of the sea surface and its statistical properties. Numerical simulations are carried out using the Euler equations with a higher-order spectral method (HOSM). Results are compared with some characteristics of the Andrea wave record measured by the down-looking lasers at Ekofisk.


2008 ◽  
Vol 38 (9) ◽  
pp. 2038-2055 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guillemette Caulliez ◽  
Vladimir Makin ◽  
Vladimir Kudryavtsev

Abstract The specific properties of the turbulent wind stress and the related wind wave field are investigated in a dedicated laboratory experiment for a wide range of wind speeds and fetches, and the results are analyzed using the wind-over-waves coupling model. Compared to long-fetch ocean wave fields, wind wave fields observed at very short fetches are characterized by higher significant dominant wave steepness but a much smaller macroscale wave breaking rate. The surface drag dependence on fetch and wind then closely follows the dominant wave steepness dependence. It is found that the dimensionless roughness length z*0 varies not only with wind forcing (or inverse wave age) but also with fetch. At a fixed fetch, when gravity waves develop, z*0 decreases with wind forcing according to a −1/2 power law. Taking into account the peculiarities of laboratory wave fields, the WOWC model predicts the measured wind stress values rather well. The relative contributions to surface drag of the equilibrium-range wave-induced stress and the airflow separation stress due to wave breaking remain small, even at high wind speeds. At moderate to strong winds, the form drag resulting from dominant waves represents the major wind stress component.


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