Numerical Modeling of Fetch-Limited Waves in the Gulf of Tehuantepec

2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (3) ◽  
pp. 466-486 ◽  
Author(s):  
Leonel Romero ◽  
W. Kendall Melville

Abstract During the Gulf of Tehuantepec Experiment (GOTEX), conducted in February 2004, surface-wave measurements were collected using a scanning lidar [Airborne Topographic Mapper (ATM)] on the National Science Foundation (NSF)/NCAR C-130 aircraft during fetch-limited conditions with winds speeds ranging from 10 to 25 m s−1. The authors present direct comparisons between the observed evolution of the wave field and numerical simulations using a parameterization of the wave energy dissipation. For low and intermediate wavenumbers, the dissipation corresponds to the saturation-based parameterization by Alves and Banner. However, at higher wavenumbers, their formulation cannot maintain saturation of the spectrum. Here, the authors use a dissipation term that forces the spectrum to match the empirical degree of saturation and explicitly balances the wind input and the nonlinear energy fluxes. All model simulations were carried out with “exact” computations of the nonlinear energy transfer because of four-wave resonant interactions and two empirical wind input functions. There is a good agreement for the integral parameters between the observations and the simulations, with root-mean-square (rms) errors between 5% and 12%. The tail of the computed omnidirectional wavenumber spectrum ϕ(k) can be approximated by two ranges: an equilibrium range, where ϕ ∝ k−5/2, and a saturation range, where ϕ = Bk−3, where B is the empirically determined degree of saturation. However, within the equilibrium range, the modeled ϕ overestimates the energy with rms errors between 20% and 50%, and the computed spectra are found to be narrower than the observations by about 10°. Similarly, the modeled bimodal directional distributions, at wavenumbers higher than the spectral peak, exhibit lobe separations and amplitudes that are consistently smaller than the observations. The lobe separation of the bimodal directional distribution for all simulations approximately scales with the square root of the wave age, which is consistent with the observations. The reasons for differences between the measurements and the simulations are discussed.

2012 ◽  
Vol 29 (9) ◽  
pp. 1329-1346 ◽  
Author(s):  
W. Erick Rogers ◽  
Alexander V. Babanin ◽  
David W. Wang

Abstract A new wind-input and wind-breaking dissipation for phase-averaged spectral models of wind-generated surface waves is presented. Both are based on recent field observations in Lake George, New South Wales, Australia, at moderate-to-strong wind-wave conditions. The respective parameterizations are built on quantitative measurements and incorporate new observed physical features, which until very recently were missing in source terms employed in operational models. Two novel features of the wind-input source function are those that account for the effects of full airflow separation (and therefore relative reduction of the input at strong wind forcing) and for nonlinear behavior of this term. The breaking term also incorporates two new features evident from observational studies; the dissipation consists of two parts—a strictly local dissipation term and a cumulative term—and there is a threshold for wave breaking, below which no breaking occurs. Four variants of the dissipation term are selected for evaluation, with minimal calibration to each. These four models are evaluated using simple calculations herein. Results are generally favorable. Evaluation for more complex situations will be addressed in a forthcoming paper.


Author(s):  
Sean A. Hubbard ◽  
D. Michael McFarland ◽  
Alexander F. Vakakis ◽  
Lawrence A. Bergman

We study computationally the passive, nonlinear targeted energy transfers induced by resonant interactions between a single-degree-of-freedom nonlinear energy sink and a uniform-plate model of a flexible, swept aircraft wing. We show that the nonlinear energy sink can be designed to quickly and efficiently absorb energy from one or more wing modes in a completely passive manner. Results indicate that it is feasible to use such a device to suppress or prevent aeroelastic instabilities like limit-cycle oscillations. The design of a compact nonlinear energy sink is introduced and the parameters of the device are examined. Simulations performed using a finite-element model of the wing coupled to discrete equations governing the energy sink indicate that targeted energy transfer is achievable, resulting, for example, in a rapid and significant reduction in the second bending mode response of the wing. Finally, the finite element model is used to simulate the effects of increased nonlinear energy sink stiffness, and to show the conditions under which the nonlinear energy sink will resonantly interact with higher-frequency wing modes.


2005 ◽  
Vol 02 (04) ◽  
pp. 975-1008 ◽  
Author(s):  
NADER MASMOUDI ◽  
KENJI NAKANISHI

In this paper, we study the convergence of solutions in the limit from the Klein–Gordon–Zakharov system to the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. The major difficulties are resonant bilinear interactions whose frequency are going to infinity, and the diverging total energy. We overcome them by combining bilinear estimates for non-resonant interactions and a modified nonlinear energy at the resonant frequency.


2009 ◽  
Vol 26 (12) ◽  
pp. 2626-2641 ◽  
Author(s):  
Benjamin D. Reineman ◽  
Luc Lenain ◽  
David Castel ◽  
W. Kendall Melville

Abstract A portable compact airborne scanning lidar system based on the Riegl LMS-Q240i has been developed and its functionality demonstrated for oceanographic and coastal measurements. Differential GPS (DGPS) and an inertial navigation system are synchronized with the lidar, resulting in vertical rms errors of less than 9 cm. Surveys with this airborne system are compared with ground-based DGPS surveys of fixed targets. Measurements of the southern California coastline and nearshore surface wave fields from 17 research flights between August 2007 and December 2008 are analyzed and discussed. The October 2007 landslide on Mt. Soledad in La Jolla, California, was documented by two of the flights. The topography, lagoon, reef, and surrounding wave field of Lady Elliot Island in Australia’s Great Barrier Reef were measured with the airborne scanning lidar system on eight research flights in April 2008. Applications of the system, including coastal topographic surveys, wave measurements, ship wake studies, and coral reef research, are presented and discussed.


2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (16) ◽  
pp. 3321
Author(s):  
Pavel D. Pivaev ◽  
Vladimir N. Kudryavtsev ◽  
Aleksandr E. Korinenko ◽  
Vladimir V. Malinovsky

The results of field observations of breaking of surface spectral peak waves, taken from an oceanographic research platform, are presented. Whitecaps generated by breaking surface waves were detected using video recordings of the sea surface, accompanied by co-located measurements of waves and wind velocity. Whitecaps were separated according to the speed of their movement, c, and then described in terms of spectral distributions of their areas and lengths over c. The contribution of dominant waves to the whitecap coverage varies with the wave age and attains more than 50% when seas are young. As found, the whitecap coverage and the total length of whitecaps generated by dominant waves exhibit strong dependence on the dominant wave steepness, ϵp, the former being proportional to ϵp6. This result supports a parameterization of the dissipation term, used in the WAM model. A semi-empirical model of the whitecap coverage, where contributions of breaking of dominant and equilibrium range waves are separated, is suggested.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (9) ◽  
pp. 1007
Author(s):  
Mohammad Ghiasian ◽  
Jane Carrick ◽  
Claire Bisson ◽  
Brian K. Haus ◽  
Andrew C. Baker ◽  
...  

Coral reefs function as submerged breakwaters providing wave mitigation and flood-reduction benefits for coastal communities. Although the wave-reducing capacity of reefs has been associated with wave breaking and friction, studies quantifying the relative contribution by corals are lacking. To fill this gap, a series of experiments was conducted on a trapezoidal artificial reef model with and without fragments of staghorn coral skeletons attached. The experiments were performed at the University of Miami’s Surge-Structure-Atmosphere-Interaction (SUSTAIN) Facility, a large-scale wind/wave tank, where the influence of coral skeletons on wave reduction under different wave and depth conditions was quantified through water level and wave measurements before and after the reef model. Coral skeletons reduce wave transmission and increase wave-energy dissipation, with the amount depending on the hydrodynamic conditions and relative geometrical characteristics of the reef. The trapezoidal artificial coral reef model was found to reduce up to 98% of the wave energy with the coral contribution estimated to be up to 56% of the total wave-energy dissipation. Depending on the conditions, coral skeletons can thus enhance significantly, through friction, the wave-reducing capability of a reef.


1972 ◽  
Vol 54 (3) ◽  
pp. 507-520 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. R. Valenzuela ◽  
M. B. Laing

The energy flux in gravity-capillary wave spectra has been obtained using Hasselmann's (1962) perturbation analysis for a homogeneous Gaussian sea. As expected, resonant interactions now appear at second order, and a third-order perturbation analysis shows that energy is redistributed from waves with intermediate wavelengths (in the neighbourhood of 1·7 cm) toward gravity and capillary waves. Numerical computations are also obtained for the energy flux and the interaction time of a sharply peaked spectrum consisting of wavenumbers concentrated around a single wavenumber, superposed on a smooth background spectrum. The range of validity of the inviscid results is discussed.


2002 ◽  
Vol 470 ◽  
pp. 223-245 ◽  
Author(s):  
TETSU HARA ◽  
STEPHEN E. BELCHER

A new analytical model is developed for the equilibrium range of the spectrum of wind-forced ocean surface gravity waves. We first show that the existing model of Phillips (1985) does not satisfy overall momentum conservation at high winds. This constraint is satisfied by applying recent understanding of the wind forcing of waves. Waves exert a drag on the air flow so that they support a fraction of the applied wind stress, which thus leaves a smaller turbulent stress near the surface to force growth of shorter wavelength waves. Formulation of the momentum budget accounting for this sheltering constrains the overall conservation of momentum and leads to a local turbulent stress that reduces as the wavenumber increases. This local turbulent stress then forces wind-induced wave growth. Following Phillips (1985), the wind sea is taken to be a superposition of linear waves, and equilibrium is maintained by a balance between the three sources and sinks of wave action.These assumptions lead to analytical formulae for the local turbulent stress and the degree of saturation, B(k), of waves in the equilibrium range. We identify a sheltering wavenumber, ks, over which the local turbulent stress is significantly reduced by longer waves. At low wavenumbers or at low winds, when k [Lt ] ks, the sheltering is weak and B(k) has a similar form to the model of Phillips (1985). At higher wavenumbers or at higher winds, ks, B(k) makes a transition to being proportional to k0. The additional constraint of conservation of momentum also yields a formula for the coefficient that appears in the solution for B(k). The spectra for mature seas are calculated from the model and are shown to agree with field observations. In particular, our model predicts more realistic spectral levels toward the high wavenumber limit compared to the previous model of Phillips (1985).We suggest that the model may explain the overshoot phenomena observed in the spectral energy levels as the fetch increases.


2001 ◽  
Vol 106 (C4) ◽  
pp. 6985-7000 ◽  
Author(s):  
Donald T. Resio ◽  
Jorgen H. Pihl ◽  
Barbara A. Tracy ◽  
C. Linwood Vincent

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