From state uniform to fashion: Japanese adoption of western clothing since the late nineteenth century

2019 ◽  
Vol 6 (2) ◽  
pp. 201-216
Author(s):  
Ami Kobayashi
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Pop Culture ◽  
Lower Class ◽  
Private Life ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Adoption Process ◽  
Rural Space ◽  
School Uniform ◽  
Late Nineteenth

Since the late nineteenth century, yōfuku (a vague Japanese concept referring to all clothing originating from western countries) has spread predominantly from the upper to the lower class and from urban to rural space in Japan. In this process, the symbolic meaning attached to it has been transformed. Once a symbol of male elites, yōfuku has become ‘Japanese fashion’ and is now an expression of current Japanese (pop) culture. This article investigates the adoption process of yōfuku – especially the school uniform, which has reflected the contrasts between elite and non-elite, modernity and tradition, masculinity and femininity, and public duty and private life. Drawing on the case study of Japan, this article also sheds light on the complexity and variety that exist in modernization processes.

The Mestizos of Kisar: An insular racial laboratory in the Malay Archipelago

2018 ◽  
Vol 49 (3) ◽  
pp. 445-463
Author(s):  
Hans Pols ◽  
Warwick Anderson
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Mixed Race ◽  
East Timor ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
East Indies ◽  
Malay Archipelago ◽  
Late Nineteenth ◽  
Dutch East Indies ◽  
Race Mixing

In the 1920s and 1930s, the Mestizos of Kisar, a dry, almost barren island in the Dutch East Indies off the coast of East Timor, were a model for the study of race mixing or human hybridity. Discovered in the late nineteenth century, these ‘anomalous blondes’ of Dutch and Kisarese ancestry became subjects of intense scrutiny by physical anthropologists. As a German specialist in tropical medicine in search of a convenient empire after 1918, Ernst Rodenwaldt favourably evaluated the physique and mentality of the isolated, fair Mestizos in the Dutch East Indies (now Indonesia). Back in Germany in the 1930s, as professor of hygiene at Heidelberg, his views on race hardened to accord with Nazi doctrine. Yet after the war, Rodenwaldt successfully cited his earlier appreciation of mixed-race peoples in the eastern Malay Archipelago as grounds for rehabilitation. Once a celebrated case study in human hybridity, the Mestizos of Kisar were erased from anthropological discussion in the 1950s, when race mixing ceased to be a biological issue and became instead a sociological interest. Still, Rodenwaldt's work continues to exert some limited influence in the eastern parts of the archipelago and among the Kisarese diaspora, indicating the penetrance and resilience of colonial racialisation projects.

Lyric, Aestheticism and the Later Nineteenth Century

2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marion Thain
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Lyric Poetry ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Michael Field ◽  
Time Space ◽  
Edith Cooper ◽  
Late Nineteenth ◽  
Katharine Bradley

Chapter 1 offers important historical and conceptual contexts for the late nineteenth century. The chapter suggests that ‘aestheticist lyric poetry’ might be usefully conceptualised ‘through the twin impetuses of conceptual expansion and formal reduction’. It then goes on to outline the context of ‘cultural modernity’, to which it is suggested aestheticist lyric poetry is responding, in order to define further the ‘crisis’ in lyric. It also introduces the three conceptual frames that set the remit for the three parts of the book; these are three key axes around which lyric poetry operates: time, space and subjectivity. Chapter 1 ends with a preliminary case study from the work of ‘Michael Field’ (the assumed name of Katharine Bradley and Edith Cooper) to demonstrate in practice the relevance of the three frames to aestheticist poetry.

Childbearing and Childrearing

2019 ◽  
pp. 18-43
Author(s):  
Brianna Theobald
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Older Women ◽  
Family Life ◽  
Social Process ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Government Employees ◽  
Pregnancy And Childbirth ◽  
Late Nineteenth

This chapter lays the groundwork for the book’s use of the Crow Reservation in Montana as an extended case study. After providing an overview of Crow history to the late nineteenth century, the chapter sketches the parameters of a Crow birthing culture that prevailed in the decades surrounding the turn of the twentieth century. Crow women navigated pregnancy and childbirth within female generational networks; viewed childbirth as a sex-segregated social process; and placed their trust in the midwifery services of older women. The chapter further explores government employees’ attitudes toward and interventions in Indigenous pregnancy, childbirth, and especially family life in these years, as these ostensibly private domains emerged as touchstones in the federal government’s ongoing assimilation efforts.

Evangelist of Fragments: Doing Mite-Box Capitalism in the Late Nineteenth Century

2017 ◽  
Vol 86 (1) ◽  
pp. 86-119 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hillary Kaell
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
North America ◽  
Sensory Experience ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Social Policies ◽  
Women And Children ◽  
Late Nineteenth ◽  
Market Capitalism

A century ago, the mite box (penny collection box) was ubiquitous in North America as a religious fundraising tool, especially for women and children. Using the Methodist Woman's Foreign Missionary Society as a case study, I ask what these boxes reveal about the intersection of gender, consumerism, and capitalism from circa 1870–1930. By cutting across traditional Weberian and Marxist analyses, the discussion engages a more complex understanding of religion and capital that includes emotional attachments and material sensations. In particular, I argue that mite boxes clarify how systematic giving was institutionalized through practices that created an imaginative bridge between the immediacy of a sensory experience and the projections of social policies and prayers. They also demonstrate how objects became physical points of connection that materialized relationships that were meant to be present, but were not tangible. Last, they demonstrate the continued salience of older Christian ideas about blessings and sacrifice, even in an era normally associated with the secularization of market capitalism and philanthropy.

scholarly journals Defining a Reseach Tool: an Object-Based Study of a Group of Inter-Related Photographic Objects Attributed to the James Inglis Studio (1866 - 1884) in the McCord Museum, Montreal

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michelle Macleod
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Social History ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Object Based ◽  
Exact Function ◽  
Late Nineteenth

This thesis is a case study of 39 disbound album pages with 579 albumen photographic portraits, most attributed to James Inglis (1835-1904), an accompanying index book, four related documents, and two notes concerning the objects’ provenance. This object-based examination of these objects is intended to serve as a model for photographic and social historians when presented with inter-related, multi-part photographic objects. This extensively illustrated case study, which is supported by four appendices, reveals aspects of Montreal’s social history in the late nineteenth century and facilitates the objects incorporation into the McCord Museum’s collection. A brief biography and information on Inglis’ studio are included to contribute to the study of his career and nineteenth century portraiture in Montreal. While the exact function of these objects is still uncertain, this thesis explores their overall intellectual and historical value and is intended to foster further research in the collection.

Tonalité grégorienne: Musica recta as Prescriptive Harmony

2020 ◽  
Vol 7 (2) ◽  
pp. 320-350
Author(s):  
Nathan L. Lam
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Historical Background ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Liturgical Music ◽  
Late Nineteenth ◽  
Musica Ficta

Late nineteenth-century organist-composers wrote liturgical music dans la tonalité grégorienne based on Niedermeyer and d'Ortigue's chant-accompaniment treatise Traité théorique et pratique de l'accompagnement du plain-chant (1857). The resulting music contained no musica ficta —, especially not raised leading tones in minor—a watershed moment in the nineteenth-century re-emergence of diatonic modality. Focusing on modes 1 and 2 (the Dorian modes) as a case study, part 1 of the essay discusses the historical background of Niedermeyer's treatise, part 2 examines features and theoretical implications therein, part 3 details large modal collections such as Guilmant's Soixante interludes dans la tonalité grégorienne, and part 4 analyses two Dorian marches: one from Guilmant's L'Organiste pratique and one from Gigout's Cent pièces brèves dans la tonalité du plain-chant.

Byron’s Spanish Afterlives: Emilio Castelar’s Vida de Lord Byron

2021 ◽  
Vol 49 (2) ◽  
pp. 125-134
Author(s):  
SARA MEDINA CALZADA
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Lord Byron ◽  
Private Life ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Keen Interest ◽  
Tragic Hero ◽  
Cultural Phenomenon ◽  
Inner Self ◽  
Late Nineteenth ◽  
Literary Reception

This article examines Emilio Castelar’s Vida de Lord Byron (1873), the first Spanish biography of Byron. Borrowing most information from Moore’s and, especially, Lescure’s biographies of the poet, Castelar provides an apologetic and over-romantic portrait of Byron, in which he tries to reconstruct his private life and inner self, depicting him as a tragic hero who, despite his excesses, should be recognised as a universal genius. Castelar’s biography, which became an immediate success, illustrates the keen interest that Byron still aroused in Spain in the late nineteenth century and it deserves to be considered in the study of Spanish Byronism, a cultural phenomenon that includes but should not be limited to the literary reception of his poetry.

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