Introduction
This chapter introduces readers to the knock-off fashion trade in Tecpán, Guatemala, where hundreds of indigenous Maya men own small-scale workshops where they make clothing that features unauthorized reproductions of popular fashion brands. Drawing on the anthropology of fashion, cultural studies, archaeology, and material culture studies, the Introduction also develops a theory of style that emphasizes the importance of copying and imitation to processes of cultural production. The chapter situates fashion branding within a broader context of “highland style,” defined by an effusive aesthetics and complicated relationships among race, ethnicity, gender, and dress in a place perhaps best known for the traditional, woven blouses and skirts (traje) worn by many Maya women. Appreciating the importance of copying and imitation to the unfolding of style in highland Guatemala and across the global fashion industry opens up questions about the privileging of a particular model of creativity, originality, and modernity in international intellectual property law.