scholarly journals Joint random distribution of wave height, period, and wave direction of ocean waves measured in a shallow sea area.

1989 ◽  
Vol 36 ◽  
pp. 148-152
Author(s):  
MASASHITA GON
2014 ◽  
Vol 31 (11) ◽  
pp. 2556-2564 ◽  
Author(s):  
James Foster ◽  
Ning Li ◽  
Kwok Fai Cheung

AbstractOcean waves have a profound impact on navigation, offshore operations, recreation, safety, and the economic vitality of a nation’s maritime and coastal communities. This study demonstrates that ships equipped with geodetic GPS and a radar gauge can provide accurate estimates of sea state. The Research Vessel (R/V) Kilo Moana recorded 1-Hz data for the entire period of a 10-day cruise around the Hawaiian Islands. Solving for precise kinematic positions for the ship and combining these solutions with the ranges from the ship to the sea surface provided by the radar gauge, it was possible to retrieve 1-Hz estimates of the sea surface elevation along the cruise track. Converting these into estimates of significant wave height, strong agreement was found with wave buoy measurements and hindcast wave data. Comparison with buoy data indicates the estimates have errors on the order of 0.22 m, or less than 11% of the wave height. Using wave model predictions of the dominant directions, the data were processed further to correct for the Doppler shift and to estimate the dominant wave period. Although relatively noisy in locations where the predicted wave directions are expected to be poor, in general these estimates also show a good agreement with the wave buoy observations and hindcast wave estimates. A segment of the cruise that formed a circuit allowed for testing the consistency of the ship-based estimates and for determining a dominant wave direction, which was found to agree closely with model predictions.


2021 ◽  
Vol 2021 ◽  
pp. 1-11
Author(s):  
Yosafat Donni Haryanto ◽  
Nelly Florida Riama ◽  
Dendi Rona Purnama ◽  
Aurel Dwiyana Sigalingging

This study aims to analyze the effect of the differences in intensity and track of tropical cyclones upon significant wave heights and direction of ocean waves in the southeast Indian Ocean. We used the tropical cyclone data from Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA) starting from December 1997 to November 2017. The significant wave height and wave direction data are reanalysis data from Copernicus Marine Environment Monitoring Service (CMEMS), and the mean sea level pressure, surface wind speed, and wind direction data are reanalysis data from European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) from December 1997 to November 2017. The results show that the significant wave height increases with the increasing intensity of tropical cyclones. Meanwhile, the direction of the waves is influenced by the presence of tropical cyclones when tropical cyclones enter the categories of 3, 4, and 5. Tropical cyclones that move far from land tend to have higher significant wave height and wider affected areas compared to tropical cyclones that move near the mainland following the coastline


1992 ◽  
Vol 25 (9) ◽  
pp. 211-216
Author(s):  
A. Akyarli ◽  
Y. Arisoy

As the wave forces are the function of the wave height, period and the angle between the incoming wave direction and the axis of the discharge pipeline, the resultant wave force is directly related to the alignment of the pipeline. In this paper, a method is explained to determine an optimum pipeline route for which the resultant wave force becomes minimum and hence, the cost of the constructive measures may decrease. Also, the application of this method is submitted through a case study.


2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 195
Author(s):  
He Wang ◽  
Jingsong Yang ◽  
Jianhua Zhu ◽  
Lin Ren ◽  
Yahao Liu ◽  
...  

Sea state estimation from wide-swath and frequent-revisit scatterometers, which are providing ocean winds in the routine, is an attractive challenge. In this study, state-of-the-art deep learning technology is successfully adopted to develop an algorithm for deriving significant wave height from Advanced Scatterometer (ASCAT) aboard MetOp-A. By collocating three years (2016–2018) of ASCAT measurements and WaveWatch III sea state hindcasts at a global scale, huge amount data points (>8 million) were employed to train the multi-hidden-layer deep learning model, which has been established to map the inputs of thirteen sea state related ASCAT observables into the wave heights. The ASCAT significant wave height estimates were validated against hindcast dataset independent on training, showing good consistency in terms of root mean square error of 0.5 m under moderate sea condition (1.0–5.0 m). Additionally, reasonable agreement is also found between ASCAT derived wave heights and buoy observations from National Data Buoy Center for the proposed algorithm. Results are further discussed with respect to sea state maturity, radar incidence angle along with the limitations of the model. Our work demonstrates the capability of scatterometers for monitoring sea state, thus would advance the use of scatterometers, which were originally designed for winds, in studies of ocean waves.


Author(s):  
Céline Drouet ◽  
Nicolas Cellier ◽  
Jérémie Raymond ◽  
Denis Martigny

In-service monitoring can help to increase safety of ships especially regarding the fatigue assessment. For this purpose, it is compulsory to know the environmental conditions encountered: wind, but also the full directional wave spectrum. During the EU TULCS project, a full scale measurements campaign has been conducted onboard the CMA-CGM 13200 TEU container ship Rigoletto. She has been instrumented to measure deformation of the ship as well as the sea state encountered during its trip. This paper will focus on the sea state estimation. Three systems have been installed to estimate the sea state encountered by the Rigoletto: An X-band radar from Ocean Waves with WAMOS® system and two altimetric wave radars from RADAC®. Nevertheless, the measured significant wave height can be disturbed by several external elements like bow waves, sprays, sea surface ripples, etc… Furthermore, ship motions are also measured and can provide another estimation of the significant wave height using a specific algorithm developed by DCNS Research for the TULCS project. As all those estimations are inherently different, it is necessary to make a fusion of those data to provide a single estimation (“best estimate”) of the significant wave height. This paper will present the data fusion process developed for TULCS and show some first validation results.


Author(s):  
Yutaka Terao ◽  
Norimitsu Sakagami

A Wave Devouring Propulsion System (WDPS) generates thrust directly from wave power while simultaneously generating a strong damping force. A simple WDPS design consists of hydrofoils mounted below the bow of a vessel. If a WDPS is integrated with the hull of a vessel, then it can power the vessel forward, even against the wave direction itself. One example of a successful WDPS was installed on the vessel named Mermaid II, which completed a trans-Pacific voyage in 2008, traveling approximately 7,800 km from Hawaii to Japan using wave power alone. This success indicates that the WDPS has potential for use in the field of ocean engineering. As described in this paper, we intend to apply the WDPS to the small autonomous boat and to conduct sea trials. We designed and built an autonomous WDPS boat, developed a data acquisition system, and experimentally investigated its performance in Orida Bay. The experimentally obtained results indicate that the autonomous navigation of the WDPS boat is possible when the wave height is greater than 5–10 cm.


2021 ◽  
Vol 893 (1) ◽  
pp. 012058
Author(s):  
R Kurniawan ◽  
H Harsa ◽  
A Ramdhani ◽  
W Fitria ◽  
D Rahmawati ◽  
...  

Abstract Providing Maritime meteorological forecasts (including ocean wave information) is one of BMKG duties. Currently, BMKG employs Wavewatch-3 (WW3) model to forecast ocean waves in Indonesia. Evaluating the wave forecasts is very important to improve the forecasts skill. This paper presents the evaluation of 7-days ahead BMKG’s wave forecast. The evaluation was performed by comparing wave data observation and BMKG wave forecast. The observation data were obtained from RV Mirai 1708 cruise on December 5th to 31st 2017 at the Indian Ocean around 04°14'S and 101°31'E. Some statistical properties and Relative Operating Characteristics (ROC) curve were utilized to assess the model performance. The evaluation processes were carried out on model’s parameters: Significant Wave Height (Hs) and Wind surface for each 7-days forecast started from 00 UTC. The comparation results show that, in average, WW3 forecasts are over-estimate the wave height than that of the observation. The forecast skills determined from the correlation and ROC curves are good for the first- and second-day forecast, while the third until seventh day decrease to fair. This phenomenon is suspected to be caused by the wind data characteristics provided by the Global Forecasts System (GFS) as the input of the model. Nevertheless, although statistical correlation is good for up to 2 days forecast, the average value of Root Mean Square Error (RMSE), absolute bias, and relative error are high. In general, this verifies the overestimate results of the model output and should be taken into consideration to improve BMKG’s wave model performance and forecast accuracy.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francisco Bolrão ◽  
Co Tran ◽  
Miguel Lima ◽  
Sheroze Sheriffdeen ◽  
Diogo Rodrigues ◽  
...  

<p>The most pervasive seismic signal recorded on our planet – microseismic ambient noise -results from the coupling of energy between atmosphere, oceans and solid Earth. Because it carries information on ocean waves (source), the microseismic wavefield can be advantageously used to image ocean storms. This imaging is of interest both to climate studies – by extending the record of oceanic activity back into the early instrumental seismic record – and to real-time monitoring – where real-time seismic data can potentially be used to complement the spatially dense but temporally sparse satellite meteorological data.<br>In our work, we develop empirical transfer functions between seismic observations and ocean activity observations, in particular, significant wave height. We employ three different approaches: 1) The approach of Ferretti et al (2013), who compute a seismic significant wave height and invert only for the empirical conversion parameters between oceanic and seismic significant wave heights; 2) The classical approach of Bromirski et al (1999), who computed an empirical transfer function between ground-motion recorded at a coastal seismic station and significant wave height measured at a nearby ocean buoy; and 3) A novel recurrent neural-network (RNN) approach to infer significant wave height from seismic data. <br>We apply the three approaches to seismic and ocean buoy data recorded in the east coast of the United States. All three approaches are able to successfully predict ocean significant wave height from the seismic data. We compare the three approaches in terms of accuracy, computational effort and robustness. In addition, we investigate the regimes where each approach works best.  The results show that the RNN approach is able to predict well the significant wave height recorded at the buoy. The prediction is improved if several nearby seismic stations are used rather than just one. <br>This work is supported by FCT through projects UIDB/50019/2020 – IDL and UTAP-EXPL/EAC/0056/2017 - STORM.</p>


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