scholarly journals The Effects of Tidal Translation on Wave and Current Dynamics on a Barred Macrotidal Beach, Northern France

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (8) ◽  
pp. 909
Author(s):  
Arnaud Héquette ◽  
Adrien Cartier ◽  
François G. Schmitt
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Temporal Variability ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spatial And Temporal Variability ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Northern France ◽  
Water Level Changes ◽  
Hydrodynamic Processes ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Horizontal Displacements

Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and current meters, complemented by a video imagery system, were deployed on a barred beach of northern France during a 6-day experiment in order to characterize the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced processes across the beach. Wave and current spectral analyses and analyses of cross-shore current direction and asymmetry resulted in the identification of distinct hydrodynamic processes, including the development of infragravity waves and offshore-directed flows in the breaker and surf zones. Our results revealed a high spatial variability in the hydrodynamic processes across the beach, related to the bar-trough topography, as well as significant variations in the directions and intensity of cross-shore currents at fixed locations due to the horizontal translation of the different hydrodynamic zones resulting from continuous changes in water level due to tides.

scholarly journals WAVE MODELING WITH SWAN+ADCIRC FOR THE SOUTH CAROLINA COASTAL STORM SURGE STUDY

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 48
Author(s):  
Christopher Bender ◽  
William Miller ◽  
Ashley Naimaster ◽  
Tucker Mahoney
Keyword(s):  
South Carolina ◽  
Water Level ◽  
Storm Surge ◽  
Water Levels ◽  
The South ◽  
Wave Parameters ◽  
Water Level Changes ◽  
Tightly Coupled ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Adcirc Model

The South Carolina Surge Study (SCSS) used the tightly coupled SWAN+ADCIRC model to simulate tropical storm surge events. The tightly coupled model allowed calculation of wave-induced water level changes within the storm surge simulations. Inclusion of the wave-induced water level changes represents a more physics-based approach than previous methods that added wave setup after model simulations ended. Development of the SWAN+ADCIRC model included validation of water levels to local tidal forcing and for three historical hurricanes — Hazel (1954), Hugo (1989), and Ophelia (2005). The validation for waves did not include Hurricane Hazel because measured data was unavailable. Additional comparisons with WAM model results provided supplemental support to the SWAN model results. Model output applied in comparisons included contour plots of maximum wave parameters, time series of wave parameters at selected locations, and wave spectra.

An Experimental Study of Wave-Induced Set-Up Over a Horizontal Reef With an Idealized Ridge

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Edmond Y. M. Lo ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Stephen G. Monismith
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Transformation Process ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reflected Waves ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Breaking Mechanism ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Reef Edge

Wave action has been the primary focus of near-shore hydrodynamic studies over decades. The wave-induced set-up due to wave breaking is one of the important factors to consider in determining both water level and mass transport above the reef-top, which has ecological as well as engineering significance. Previous investigations into reef hydrodynamics (including laboratory experiments, field investigations, theoretical analysis and numerical simulations) focused mainly on wave-induced set-up on reefs with a horizontal reef-top (Gourlay, 1996. J. Coastal Eng. 27:161–193). It has been observed that a ridge (reef crest) may be present at the reef edge, but so far we are not aware of any published studies on the effects of this type of ridge on the wave-induced set-up over the reef-top. To understand the role of the ridge in wave-breaking mechanism and wave-induced set-up over the reef, a series of experiments were carried out in a wave flume of 36m long and 0.55m wide, with idealized reef-ridge models being installed at the reef edge to simulate fringing reefs with rectangle ridges. The surface elevations at four locations over the reef were measured with Ultralab sensors (General Acoustics), revealing the variation of wave-induced set-up along the reef. Experimental results are reported for two water depths and eighteen regular wave conditions. Also discussed are the effects of the ridge width on the wave-induced set-up. The focus of this paper will be given to the comparison of wave-induced set-ups with and without the rectangular ridges. Preliminary analysis shows that the ridge controls the water level above the reef-top in a way similar to that a broad crest weir controls the water level in open channel flows. Furthermore, the presence of the ridge is found to alter significantly the wave transformation process near the reef edge, especially the strength of the reflected waves and the locations of breakers. Experiments also show that the wave-induced set-up over reef-top with a ridge is generally much larger than that without a ridge. Finally, an attempt is made to introduce a new dimensionless parameter in order to take the ridge configuration into consideration and achieve a better agreement between experiments and predictions when ridges are present.

scholarly journals MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marcel Zijlema
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Coral Reef ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Flow Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Flow ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Steep Slopes

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and wave-induced setup and runup, but also on the generation and propagation of infragravity waves beyond the reef crest. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model for a typical coral reef with steep slopes and extended reef flats.

Maps showing water-level changes in six areas in Utah

1962 ◽  
Author(s):  
G.W. Sandberg ◽  
R.G. Butler ◽  
Joseph Spencer Gates
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Water Level Changes
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