scholarly journals MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 26 ◽  
Author(s):  
Marcel Zijlema
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Coral Reef ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Flow Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Flow ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Steep Slopes

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and wave-induced setup and runup, but also on the generation and propagation of infragravity waves beyond the reef crest. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model for a typical coral reef with steep slopes and extended reef flats.

Characteristics of Transforming Waves Breaking Over a Fringing Reef

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fuxian Gong ◽  
Manhar R. Dhanak
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fundamental Wave ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Wave Shoaling

Abstract Direct numerical simulation (DNS), based on solution of the Navier Stokes equations, is used to study the characteristics of the transformation of monochromatic waves over a simplified fringing reef, including wave shoaling, and wave breaking that occurs under certain circumstances. The reef geometry involves a sloped plane beach extended with a simple submerged horizontal reef flat. The characteristics are studied for several case studies involving a selection of submergence depths on the reef flat and for a range of incident wave conditions, corresponding to nonbreaking, a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker, are considered. The results are compared with those of laboratory experiments (Kouvaras and Dhanak, 2018). Consistent with other studies, generation of harmonics of the fundamental wave frequency is found to accompany the wave transformation over the reef and the process of transfer of energy through wave breaking. The energy flux decreases dramatically in the onshore direction when the waves break. The more severe the wave breaking process, the greater the decrease in energy flux, particularly in the wave shoaling process. Most of the wave energy is carried by the first harmonic throughout its passage over the fringing reef. In nonbreaking waves, the energy gradually transfers from the first harmonic to the second harmonic due to bottom effects in terms of flat wave troughs and secondary waves. The further the distance away from the fore edge of the reef, the larger the percentage of the transmission, resulting in a single dominant harmonic frequency at the end of the wave surfing zone. For breaking waves, the energy carried by the first harmonic gradually decreases in the onshore direction. Energy transmission between harmonics is not as efficient as nonbreaking waves, while wave dissipation is significant in the wave breaking process.

An Experimental Study of Wave-Induced Set-Up Over a Horizontal Reef With an Idealized Ridge

2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Edmond Y. M. Lo ◽  
Zhenhua Huang ◽  
Stephen G. Monismith
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Transformation Process ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reflected Waves ◽  
Wave Flume ◽  
Breaking Mechanism ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Reef Edge

Wave action has been the primary focus of near-shore hydrodynamic studies over decades. The wave-induced set-up due to wave breaking is one of the important factors to consider in determining both water level and mass transport above the reef-top, which has ecological as well as engineering significance. Previous investigations into reef hydrodynamics (including laboratory experiments, field investigations, theoretical analysis and numerical simulations) focused mainly on wave-induced set-up on reefs with a horizontal reef-top (Gourlay, 1996. J. Coastal Eng. 27:161–193). It has been observed that a ridge (reef crest) may be present at the reef edge, but so far we are not aware of any published studies on the effects of this type of ridge on the wave-induced set-up over the reef-top. To understand the role of the ridge in wave-breaking mechanism and wave-induced set-up over the reef, a series of experiments were carried out in a wave flume of 36m long and 0.55m wide, with idealized reef-ridge models being installed at the reef edge to simulate fringing reefs with rectangle ridges. The surface elevations at four locations over the reef were measured with Ultralab sensors (General Acoustics), revealing the variation of wave-induced set-up along the reef. Experimental results are reported for two water depths and eighteen regular wave conditions. Also discussed are the effects of the ridge width on the wave-induced set-up. The focus of this paper will be given to the comparison of wave-induced set-ups with and without the rectangular ridges. Preliminary analysis shows that the ridge controls the water level above the reef-top in a way similar to that a broad crest weir controls the water level in open channel flows. Furthermore, the presence of the ridge is found to alter significantly the wave transformation process near the reef edge, especially the strength of the reflected waves and the locations of breakers. Experiments also show that the wave-induced set-up over reef-top with a ridge is generally much larger than that without a ridge. Finally, an attempt is made to introduce a new dimensionless parameter in order to take the ridge configuration into consideration and achieve a better agreement between experiments and predictions when ridges are present.

3D Wave Transformation Through Openings in Coastal Structures

2013 ◽  
Author(s):  
Vasiliki Katsardi ◽  
Vasiliki K. Tsoukala ◽  
Kostas A. Belibassakis
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Numerical Solution ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Harmonic Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Wave Flow ◽  
Finite Width ◽  
Coastal Structures ◽  
Diffraction Effects ◽  
Incident Waves

Standard openings in coastal structures are the flushing culverts at breakwaters, allowing periodic exchange of the harbor basin water leading to improved water quality. These openings involve sudden water depth changes occurring when the incident waves meet these openings and transmitted into the harbour. The wave transformations during wave propagation through flushing culverts are dominated by 3D diffraction effects due to sudden water depth changes, along with the finite width of the culvert. A new coupled-mode model, based on eigenfunctions expansions of the Laplace equation, is developed and applied to the numerical solution of the local 3D wave flow problem at the opening. The harmonic wave field is excited by incident parallel waves. The numerical solution converges rapidly, permitting the series truncation at its first terms. The proposed method fully accounts for the 3D diffraction effects and produces information to couple with mild-slope models describing efficiently wave propagation and transformation in coastal regions.

scholarly journals POST-BOUSSINESQ MODEL FOR NONLINEAR IRREGULAR WAVE PROPAGATION IN PORTS AND WAVE-STRUCTURE INTERACTION

2020 ◽  
pp. 27
Author(s):  
Theofanis Karambas ◽  
Christos Makris ◽  
Vasilis Baltikas
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Wave Structure ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Structure Interaction ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Structure Interaction

In this work, an updated version of the Karambas and Memos (2009) Boussinesq model for weakly nonlinear fully dispersive water waves, is introduced. It is implemented for wave propagation and transformation (due to shoaling, refraction, diffraction, bottom friction, wave breaking, runup, wave-structure interaction etc.) in nearshore zones and inside ports. One of the main goals is the model's thorough validation, thus it is tested against experimental data of wave transmission over and through breakwaters, uni- and multi-directional spectral wave transformation over complex bathymetries and diffraction through a breakwater gap. Case studies of model application over realistic variable bathymetries at characteristic Greek ports are also presented. Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/w8-AfAW6EYM

scholarly journals The Effects of Tidal Translation on Wave and Current Dynamics on a Barred Macrotidal Beach, Northern France

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (8) ◽  
pp. 909
Author(s):  
Arnaud Héquette ◽  
Adrien Cartier ◽  
François G. Schmitt
Keyword(s):  
Water Level ◽  
Temporal Variability ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spatial And Temporal Variability ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Northern France ◽  
Water Level Changes ◽  
Hydrodynamic Processes ◽  
Wave Induced ◽  
Horizontal Displacements

Barred macrotidal beaches are affected by continuous horizontal displacements of different hydrodynamic zones associated with wave transformation (shoaling, breaker and surf zones) due to significant tide-induced water level changes. A series of wave and current meters, complemented by a video imagery system, were deployed on a barred beach of northern France during a 6-day experiment in order to characterize the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced processes across the beach. Wave and current spectral analyses and analyses of cross-shore current direction and asymmetry resulted in the identification of distinct hydrodynamic processes, including the development of infragravity waves and offshore-directed flows in the breaker and surf zones. Our results revealed a high spatial variability in the hydrodynamic processes across the beach, related to the bar-trough topography, as well as significant variations in the directions and intensity of cross-shore currents at fixed locations due to the horizontal translation of the different hydrodynamic zones resulting from continuous changes in water level due to tides.

scholarly journals Experimental and Numerical Studies on Wave Breaking Characteristics over a Fringing Reef under Monochromatic Wave Conditions

2014 ◽  
Vol 2014 ◽  
pp. 1-11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jong-In Lee ◽  
Sungwon Shin ◽  
Young-Taek Kim
Keyword(s):  
Energy Dissipation ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Model Verification ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Monochromatic Wave ◽  
Layer Model ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Fringing Reef ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
The Cross

Fringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over an idealized fringing reef with the 1/40 reef slope and to verify the Boussinesq model under monochromatic wave conditions. One-layer and two-layer model configurations of the Boussinesq model were used to figure out the model capability. Both models predicted well (r2>0.8)the cross-shore variation of the wave heights, crests, troughs, and setups when the nonlinearity is not too high(A0/h0<0.07in this study). However, as the wave nonlinearity and steepness increase, the one-layer model showed problems in prediction and stability due to the error on the vertical profile of fluid velocity. The results in this study revealed that one-layer model is not suitable in the highly nonlinear wave condition over a fringing reef bathymetry. This data set can contribute to the numerical model verification.

The coastal refraction-diffraction wave propagation model

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son
Keyword(s):  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Field Data ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Propagation Model ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Diffraction Effect ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Diffraction Wave ◽  
Linear Wave Propagation ◽  
Wave Propagation Model

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

scholarly journals LAGRANGIAN BREAKER CHARACTERISTICS FOR NONLINEAR WATER WAVES PROPAGATING ON SLOPING BOTTOMS

2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 15
Author(s):  
Yang-Yih Chen ◽  
Meng-Syue Li ◽  
Hung-Chu Hsu ◽  
Ying-Pin Lin
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Wave Propagation ◽  
Empirical Formula ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Present Theory ◽  
Empirical Formulas ◽  
Third Order ◽  
Wave Shoaling ◽  
Theoretical Results ◽  
Sloping Bottom

In this paper, a new third-order Lagrangian asymptotic solution describing nonlinear water wave propagation on the surface of a uniform sloping bottom is presented. The model is formulated in the Lagrangian variables and we use a two-parameter perturbation method to develop a new mathematical derivation. The particle trajectories, wave pressure and Lagrangian velocity potential are obtained as a function of the nonlinear wave steepness  and the bottom slope  perturbed to third order. The analytical solution in Lagrangian form satisfies state of the normal pressure at the free surface. The condition of the conservation of mass flux is examined in detail for the first time. The two important properties in Lagrangian coordinates, Lagrangian wave frequency and Lagrangian mean level, are included in the third-order solution. The solution can also be used to estimate the mean return current for waves progressing over the sloping bottom. The Lagrangian solution untangle the description of the features of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the process of successive deformation of a wave profile and water particle trajectories leading to wave breaking. The proposed model has proved to be capable of a better description of non-linear wave effects than the corresponding approximation of the same order derived by using the Eulerian description. The proposed solution has also been used to determine the wave shoaling process, and the comparisons between the experimental and theoretical results are presented in Fig.1a~1b. In addition, the basic wave-breaking criterion, namely the kinematical Stokes stability condition, has been investigated. The comparisons between the present theory, empirical formula of Goda (2004) and the experiments made by Iwagali et al.(1974), Deo et al.(2003) and Tsai et al.(2005) for the breaking index(Hb/L0) versus the relative water depth(d0/L0) under two different bottom slopes are depicted in Figs 2a~2b. It is found that the theoretical breaking index is well agreement with the experimental results for three bottom slopes. However,for steep slope of 1/3 shown in Fig 2b, the result of Goda‘s empirical formula gives a larger value in comparison with the experimental data and the present theory. Some of empirical formulas presented the breaking wave height in terms of deepwater wave condition, such as in Sunamura (1983) and in Rattanapitikon and Shibayama(2000). Base on the results depicted in Fig. 3a~3b, it showed that the theoretical results are in good agreement with the experimental data (Iwagali et al. 1974, Deo et al.2003 and Tsai et al. 2005) than the empirical formulas. The empirical formula of Sunamura (1983) always predicts an overestimation value.

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