The Italian priest Ernesto Cozzi is an important figure for two reasons: he wrote valuable ethnographic studies of life in the ‘Malësi’ (northern highlands) of Albania in the early years of the twentieth century, and after the First World War he was the ‘Apostolic Delegate’ who revitalized the Catholic Church in that country. Both aspects of his life and work were ignored under Communism, and remain little known today. This essay tells the story of his life, using his published writings, his personal diary for 1912–13, the manuscript notebooks of his friend Edith Durham and the reports he submitted to his superiors in Rome. What emerges is a portrait of a resourceful and principled man, a conscientious parish priest, fluent in Albanian, and devoted both to the Albanian anti-Ottoman cause and to the good of the Church. His ethnographic writings are discussed: what survives is a series of articles, chapters of an intended book, on illnesses, death and funerals, the life of Albanian women (including the ‘sworn virgins’), blood-feuds, superstitions, agriculture, and social organization and customary law. His personal diary is of particular interest, as it describes the dramatic events of the First Balkan War: Cozzi began by supporting the Montenegrin attack on Ottoman Albania, but became rapidly disillusioned by Montenegro’s policies. The last part of the essay discusses Cozzi’s energetic work to improve the state of the Catholic Church in Albania in the six years before his death in 1926.