Statistical distribution of nonlinear random water wave surface elevation

2006 ◽  
Vol 24 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-5 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hou Yijun ◽  
Song Guiting ◽  
Zhao Xixi ◽  
Song Jinbao ◽  
Zheng Quan'an
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (19) ◽  
pp. 3918
Author(s):  
Sajjad Roshandel ◽  
Weiquan Liu ◽  
Cheng Wang ◽  
Jonathan Li

Water wave monitoring is a vital issue for coastal research and plays a key role in geomorphological changes, erosion and sediment transportation, coastal hazards, risk assessment, and decision making. However, despite missing data and the difficulty of capturing the data of nearshore fieldwork, the analysis of water wave surface parameters is still able to be discussed. In this paper, we propose a novel approach for accurate detection and analysis of water wave surface from Airborne LiDAR Bathymetry (ALB) large-scale point clouds data. In our proposed method we combined the modified Density-Based Spatial Clustering of Applications with Noise (DBSCAN) clustering method with a connectivity constraint and a multi-level analysis of ocean water surface. We adapted for most types of wave shape anatomies in shallow waters, nearshore, and onshore of the coastal zone. We used a wavelet analysis filter to detect the water wave surface. Then, through the Fourier Transformation Approach, we estimated the parameters of wave height, wavelength, and wave orientation. The comparison between the LiDAR measure estimation technique and available buoy data was then presented. We quantified the performance of the algorithm by measuring the precision and recall for the waves identification without evaluating the degree of over-segmentation. The proposed method achieves 87% accuracy of wave identification in the shallow water of coastal zones.


Author(s):  
S. Saha Ray ◽  
Shailendra Singh

The governing equations for fluid flows, i.e. Kadomtsev–Petviashvili–Benjamin–Bona–Mahony (KP-BBM) model equations represent a water wave model. These model equations describe the bidirectional propagating water wave surface. In this paper, an auto-Bäcklund transformation is being generated by utilizing truncated Painlevé expansion method for the considered equation. This paper determines the new bright soliton solutions for [Formula: see text] and [Formula: see text]-dimensional nonlinear KP-BBM equations. The simplified version of Hirota’s technique is utilized to infer new bright soliton solutions. The results are plotted graphically to understand the physical behavior of solutions.


2021 ◽  
Vol 238 ◽  
pp. 109757
Author(s):  
Xiudi Ren ◽  
Longbin Tao ◽  
Yibo Liang ◽  
Duanfeng Han

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Karsten Trulsen

<p>In Trulsen et al. (2020) we reported that when irregular waves propagate over a shoal the extreme wave statistics of surface elevation and water velocity can be dramatically different:  The surface elevation can have a local maximum of kurtosis some distance into the shallower part of the shoal, while it relaxes to normality after the shoal.  The velocity field can have a local maximum of kurtosis after the shoal, while it is close to normality over the shallower part of the shoal.  These two fields clearly do not coincide regarding the location of increased probability of extreme waves.</p><p>Here we consider the evolution of the irregular waves over the shoal as a multivariate stochastic process, with a view to reveal the evolution of the joint statistical distribution of surface elevation and water velocity.  Higher order multivariate moments, coskewness and cokurtosis, more commonly seen in mathematical finance theory, are employed to describe the joint extreme wave statistical distribution of the elevation and the velocity.</p><p>Trulsen, K., Raustøl, A., Jorde, S. & Rye, L. B. (2020) Extreme wave statistics of longcrested irregular waves over a shoal. <em> J. Fluid Mech.</em><strong> 882</strong>, R2.</p>


Author(s):  
Zhili Zou ◽  
Yalong Zhou ◽  
Kai Yan

A laboratory experiment on generation and evolution of L2-type crescent waves was performed with focus on the effects of finite water depth on crescent waves. The new results include the critical wave steepness for triggering crescent waves, the characteristics of the wave surface pattern and amplitude spectrum, and the parameters of surface elevation.


1998 ◽  
Vol 26 (5) ◽  
pp. 401-430 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.M Niedzwecki ◽  
J.W van de Lindt ◽  
E.W Sandt

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