Light fading, rub and wash fastness of sulphur-dyed cotton fabrics aftertreated with cation–tannin protective system

2020 ◽  
Vol 49 (6) ◽  
pp. 431-439
Author(s):  
Quratulain Mohtashim ◽  
Muriel Rigout ◽  
Sheraz Hussain Siddique

Purpose Sulphur dyes are the most highly consumed colourants for cellulosic substrates owing to their reasonable cost and acceptable fastness. However, the use of noxious conventional reducing agent, sodium sulphide and impaired wash fastness against oxidative bleaching is gradually decreasing the market of these dyes. As the need for “Green” goods and services is raising public awareness, this paper aims to use a glucose-based biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics with a range of commercial sulphur dyes. The study also proposes an aftertreatment method to improve the fastness properties of the dyeing. Design/methodology/approach The paper investigated the impact of a newly developed aftertreatment method on the fastness properties of dyeing. This involved the sequential application of a cationic fixing agent (Tinofix ECO) and tannin (Bayprotect CL) on the coloured fabrics and subsequent evaluation of colour strength, washing, light and rubbing fastness. Findings The effect of aftertreating the dyed cotton was found to significantly improve the light and wet rub fastness. The surface morphology of the dyeing remained unaffected as depicted by the absence of any finish residues. Research limitations/implications The protective effect of the cation–tannin aftertreatments was examined with a view to providing the necessary commercial performance; however, it was established that the dry rub fastness was either reduced or remained unaffected and the wash fastness to International Organization for Standardization 105 C09 was also marginal. Originality/value This finishing technique is novel and can be found useful for manufacturing sulphur-dyed products with the improved light and wet rub fastness.

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Quratulain Mohtashim ◽  
Muriel Rigout ◽  
Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani

Purpose Sulphur dyes provide an inexpensive medium to dye cellulosic fibres with heavy shade depths. They offer moderate to good fastness to light and wet treatments. However, owing to the environmental hazard produced by the use of sodium sulphide, the practical implication of these dyes is steadily decreasing. Moreover, these dyes are prone to oxidation causing pronounced fading on exposure to laundering. This paper aims to present the green processing of sulphur dyes by using a biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics. The study also proposes after-treatments with tannin to improve the fastness properties of the dyeings. Design/methodology/approach In this study, dyeings were produced on cotton fabric with a range of C.I. Leuco Sulphur dyes, which were reduced with sodium sulphide and glucose. Sulphur dyeings were after-treated with an environment-friendly tannin-based product (Bayprotect CL (BP)); subsequently, the after-treated samples were evaluated for colour strength, wash, light and rubbing fastness. Findings A novel after-treatment method was developed, which substantially improved the wash fastness of C.I. Leuco Sulphur Black 1 dyeing to ISO 105 C06/C09 washing. However, the degree of this improvement varied for the other sulphur dyes used. The surface morphology and the possible mechanisms for the improved fastness properties were also discussed. Research limitations/implications The effect of after-treatment was significant for improving the wash fastness of sulphur black dyeings in particular, while the effect on other colours was minor. Significant improvements were observed for light and wet rub fastness for most of the dyeings, which signifies the importance of tannins as a finishing agent. Practical implications It is observed that the tannin-based product, BP, is found to provide the photoprotective effect by improving the lightfastness of the dyeings. Future research may involve the exploration of various tannins as a finishing agent to sulphur dyeings. Originality/value This novel finishing technique is found significant for improving the wash fastness of sulphur black 1 dyeings for both the reducing systems. Improvements were also observed for light and wet rub fastnesses for most of the dyeings.


2019 ◽  
Vol 3 (1) ◽  
pp. 2-28 ◽  
Author(s):  
Garrett Lane Cohee ◽  
Jeff Barrows ◽  
Rob Handfield

Purpose Each year, the US defense industry outsources nearly $400 bn of domestic goods and services through competitive bids. These procurement activities are quite often complex and specialized in nature because of a highly regulated federal acquisition contracting environment. Ongoing calls to improve supplier management and drive innovation in the defense industry offers an opportunity to adopt Early Supplier Integration (ESI) initiatives that have proven successful in the private sector. This paper identifies critical ESI activities and acquisition practices that the defense industry should adopt to ensure enhanced effectiveness in new product development. Design/methodology/approach Leveraging a conceptual ESI model derived from the research, an in-depth case study of 12 product development projects from a major defense contractor was performed. In the context of project performance, critical ESI activities and moderating effects were assessed. Findings Three key ESI activities have the greatest impact on aggregate project performance: system design involvement, design adjustment opportunities and design for manufacturability/assembly/testability involvement. Use of formal supplier agreements also significantly impacts project performance during the development phase. In addition, project complexity and product team maturity were identified as environment moderators; higher complexity projects tended to negatively moderate the impact of ESI upon performance, and higher team maturity levels tended to positively moderate the impact of ESI upon performance. Originality/value The results provide a sound framework for empirical validation through future quantitative studies and defense industry analyses. In addition, insights and recommendations for interpretation and adaptation of federal acquisition regulations to allow increased utilization of ESI within the defense industry are substantiated.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Asier Minondo

Purpose This paper aims to analyze the impact of COVID-19 on the trade of goods and services in Spain. Design/methodology/approach This paper uses monthly trade data at the product, region and firm level. Findings The COVID-19 crisis has led to the sharpest collapse in the Spanish trade of goods and services in recent decades. The containment measures adopted to arrest the spread of the virus have caused an especially intense fall of trade in services. The large share of transport equipment, capital goods, products that are consumed outdoors (i.e., outdoor goods) and tourism in Spanish exports has made the COVID-19 trade crisis more intense in Spain than in the rest of the European Union. Practical implications The nature of the collapse suggests that trade in goods can recover swiftly when the health crisis ends. However, COVID-19 may have a long-term negative impact on the trade of services that rely on the movement of people. Originality/value It contributes to understand how COVID-19 has affected the trade in goods and services in Spain.


2020 ◽  
Vol 15 (3) ◽  
pp. 189-209 ◽  
Author(s):  
Justin Ames ◽  
Dustin Bluhm ◽  
James Gaskin ◽  
Kalle Lyytinen

Purpose With the rise in public awareness of corporate social responsibility, business leaders are increasingly expected to recognize the needs and demands of multiple stakeholders. There may, however, be unintended consequences of this expectation for organizational managers who engage these needs and demands with a high level of moral attentiveness. This study aims to investigate the indirect effect of managerial moral attentiveness on managerial turnover intent, serially mediated by moral dissonance and moral stress. Design/methodology/approach Multi-phase survey data were collected from 130 managers within a large sales organization regarding experiences of moral dissonance and moral stress. The authors analyzed the relation of these experiences to measures of moral attentiveness and turnover intent using structural equation modeling. Findings Results support a serial mediation model, with a positive, indirect effect between moral attentiveness and turnover intent among managers through moral dissonance and moral stress. Overall, the results suggest that expecting business leaders to be morally attentive may result in greater moral dissonance and moral stress, potentially impacting their intentions to stay with the organization. Practical implications Implementing positive practices toward processing moral dissonance and reducing moral stress may be a mechanism toward retaining ethically inclined organizational leaders. Originality/value This study is the first to identify moral attentiveness as an antecedent to turnover intent within managers. It also establishes the serial mechanisms of moral dissonance and moral stress and provides suggestions on how to retain morally attentive managers by actively managing those mechanisms.


2020 ◽  
Vol 27 (3) ◽  
pp. 245-265
Author(s):  
Zaleha Othman ◽  
Mohd Fareez Fahmy Nordin ◽  
Muhammad Sadiq

PurposeThis study provides in-depth explanation of Goods and Services Tax (GST) fraud prevention towards sustainability business.Design/methodology/approachThis study applies a qualitative research method, i.e. case study, to address the specific research objective.FindingsThe finding revealed a GST prevention model towards sustainable business. The finding shows that it is pertinent for the government to set preventive strategies in order to retain sustainable income for the government. Two essential dimensions emerged in the findings to support preventive strategies, namely macro- and micro-level measures.Practical implicationsThe findings of this study provide managers, investors and policymakers with evidence to what extent GST fraud could be minimize in order to safeguard government source of revenue and retain sustainable business in a country. As GST is an important source of revenue for the government, it is thus crucial to prevent fraud from occurring.Originality/valuePast studies have primarily focused on GST implementation from the perspective of service tax effectiveness and efficiency. However, this study examined the impact of GST fraud to determine measures that could ensure service tax sustainability using preventive strategies, in turn, introducing to the existing literature on indirect tax.


2017 ◽  
Vol 18 (7) ◽  
pp. 1142-1156 ◽  
Author(s):  
Matthew Lambert ◽  
Katherine Kao Cushing

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to describe the impacts of an ecological footprint (EF) reduction campaign on the pro-environmental behavior of university students, faculty and staff. The campaign emphasized educating participants on specific actions that reduce resource use and the relative environmental benefit of each action. Design/methodology/approach This investigation used a pre-test–post-test design. At the beginning of an academic year, participants were invited to measure their baseline EF and take part in a footprint reduction campaign. At the end of the campaign, participants measured their EF again to see if they were able to reduce it by 10 per cent. Findings Participants in the footprint reduction campaign decreased their EF by 10 per cent. Students changed behaviors related to goods and services the most, resulting in a 16 per cent decrease in footprint for this behavior category. The most significant behavior change for faculty and staff was in the housing category with footprint reductions of 12 and 11 per cent, respectively. The most common behavioral changes in students were low- and no-cost options. Research limitations/implications Because of the general nature of the EF tool, estimates of resource use reduction are approximate. Data describing pro-environmental behaviors were self-reported by participants, making accuracy dependent on participant recollections. Originality/value This paper illustrates how providing quantitative, personalized and university-specific knowledge on the impact of personal lifestyles on natural resources can facilitate significant, measurable pro-environmental behavioral change for the entire campus community. It also provides direction on how to develop targeted sustainability campaigns for different audiences.


2014 ◽  
Vol 27 (1) ◽  
pp. 37-51 ◽  
Author(s):  
Benjamin Liu ◽  
Allen Huang ◽  
Brett Freudenberg

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the impact of the Goods and Services Tax (GST) on mortgage pricing and to measure the GST shifting ratio of Australian credit unions. Design/methodology/approach – Using the proprietary data from 79 credit unions in Australia, we perform multivariate regression analysis on the effect of the GST on mortgage effective yield spreads and interest margins, respectively. We also introduce a model that is used to measure the GST shifting ratio. Findings – We document that the introduction of the GST in July 2000 led to the substantial rise in mortgage costs charged by credit unions in the post-GST periods. Overall, the GST alone contributed to the increase of effective yield spreads and interest margin by 65.3 and 70.1 basis points, respectively. As measured by the GST-shifting ratio, credit unions passed more than twice of the GST rate. This suggests GST over-shifting, and it is generally consistent with tax over-shifting literature. Originality/value – This is the first time the GST shifting ratio has been robustly measured with the use of multivariate models on mortgage costs.


2020 ◽  
Vol 49 (6) ◽  
pp. 483-489
Author(s):  
Aminoddin Haji

Purpose The dyeing of cellulosic and proteinous fibers with natural and synthetic colorants usually needs large amounts of metal salts to promote the dyeing procedure. To get rid of the necessity to use metal salts, plasma treatment and subsequent attachment of chitosan biopolymer were considered as green processes for surface functionalization of wool and cotton. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of oxygen plasma treatment and attachment of chitosan on the dyeability of wool and cotton fabrics using walnut and weld as model natural dyes, as well as C.I. reactive blue 50 and C.I. acid blue 92 as model synthetic dyes. Design/methodology/approach Wool and cotton fabrics were modified with oxygen plasma and coated with chitosan solution. The un-modified and modified samples were dyed with the above-mentioned dyes under constant conditions. The color strength, color coordinates and fastness properties of the dyed samples were determined and compared. Findings The results showed that oxygen plasma treatment could improve the dyeability and fastness properties of wool and cotton fibers when dyed with all of the above-mentioned dyes. Attachment of chitosan to the plasma-treated samples significantly improved the dyeability of wool and cotton fibers with walnut, acid and reactive dyes. The fastness properties of the dyed samples were enhanced by plasma treatment and chitosan coating. Originality/value This study uses plasma treatment as an environmentally friendly pre-treatment for attachment of chitosan on wool and cotton. This process improved the dyeing properties of both fibers. The use of metal salts in not needed for dyeing of wool and cotton according to the investigated process.


2019 ◽  
Vol 13 (3) ◽  
pp. 277-301
Author(s):  
Ana Margarida Barreto ◽  
Diogo Ramalho

Purpose This paper aims to look at the effects of different levels of involvement (high and low) on social media (Facebook) users' engagement (likes, shares and comments) with different types and formats of brand content. Design/methodology/approach The authors analyzed user reactions to 1,156 Facebook posts from eight business-to-consumer brands (goods and services). Based on a post hoc test, four product/services were identified as belonging to the group of high-involvement and the other four as low involvement. Findings The data suggest that, when involvement is low, users in general engage more with brand posts regardless their format (text, image and post) or type (hedonic and informative), or even the interaction of both. Moreover, low involvement leads users prefer to comment on brand content, whereas higher involvement is associated with to sharing it. Exceptions were observed for images (both hedonic and informative) and for hedonic image and video in both low and high involvement users. Research limitations/implications The goal was not to measure users’ attention to each type of post. Moreover, the authors did not have access to information regarding which devices were used to access the online content and whether that aspect might have an impact on users’ reactions. Neither do they claim that engagement necessarily reflects positive reactions, as any content analysis of users’ reactions was beyond the scope of this project. Practical implications These findings are expected to help brand managers and social media strategists to better select content based on their marketing goals, as well as to provide a potential explanation for the success of campaigns. Originality/value As far as we are aware, no previous study has attempted to observe the mediated effect of consumer involvement on brand posts considering their type and format. We also believe that this is the first observation of how behavior differentiates according to the target audience’s level of involvement. This paper also proposes a convenient framework for categorizing social network sites content. Suggestions for future research are made at the end.


2018 ◽  
Vol 27 (3) ◽  
pp. 334-345 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pauline Eadie ◽  
Yvonne Su

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to explore the impact of disaster rehabilitation interventions on bonding social capital in the aftermath of Typhoon Yolanda. Design/methodology/approach The data from the project are drawn from eight barangays in Tacloban City, the Philippines. Local residents and politicians were surveyed and interviewed to examine perceptions of resilience and community self-help. Findings The evidence shows that haphazard or inequitable distribution of relief goods and services generated discontent within communities. However, whilst perceptions of community cooperation and self-help are relatively low, perceptions of resilience are relatively high. Research limitations/implications This research was conducted in urban communities after a sudden large-scale disaster. The findings are not necessarily applicable in the rural context or in relation to slow onset disasters. Practical implications Relief agencies should think more carefully about the social impact of the distribution of relief goods and services. Inequality can undermine community level cooperation. Social implications A better consideration of social as well as material capital in the aftermath of disaster could help community self-help, resilience and positive adaptation. Originality/value This study draws on evidence from local communities to contradict the overarching rhetoric of resilience in the aftermath of Typhoon Yolanda.


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